Single foot guides

[roz]

Hey Roz you might be able to teach me that girly crosswraps stuff.

I'd be vewy vewy careful Myles, Roz McKenzie might just be a pseudonym. I could really be D. P. Clemens...with attitude.

cheers d.

[roz]

Just out of interest, I've taken some photos of old guides.

As you well know they are the el cheapo guides.

The larger ones are from my old ugly stick, which was my all purpose trolling rod, bottom bashing boat rod. I used it with an old star drag alvey, with line that was much too heavy for the rod.

I know the line is 24kg, and I think the rod is around an 8kg.

Those guides were on there for a minimum 7 years, the smaller ones near the tip cop most of the punishment, so I was always replacing.

I save a set of guides like these as emergency spares.

Since we are having the debate on underbinding and rust, I thought these pics may be of interest.

You will also see a couple of much smaller single foot guides.

These have just come off the rod I'm rebuilding, I shortened the rod a little and used the same guides again, with the exception of a new tip and the next guide back.

The guides on the this rod have been there for only about three years.

In both cases I've underbound, and as you can see not files back the feet. Now days I do.

Also both rods are used in salt water. It is very hard to see detail, but there is minimal or no rust on the feet of these guides. You can however, see rust on the exposed parts of the guides. I havn't cleaned up any of the guides.

I'm not trying to make a point, just thought it interesting.


BTW the latter is graphite.

[DR]

Just out of interest, I've taken some photos of old guides.

As you well know they are the el cheapo guides.

The larger ones are from my old ugly stick, which was my all purpose trolling rod, bottom bashing boat rod. I used it with an old star drag alvey, with line that was much too heavy for the rod.

I know the line is 24kg, and I think the rod is around an 8kg.

Those guides were on there for a minimum 7 years, the smaller ones near the tip cop most of the punishment, so I was always replacing.

I save a set of guides like these as emergency spares.

Since we are having the debate on underbinding and rust, I thought these pics may be of interest.

You will also see a couple of much smaller single foot guides.

These have just come off the rod I'm rebuilding, I shortened the rod a little and used the same guides again, with the exception of a new tip and the next guide back.

The guides on the this rod have been there for only about three years.

In both cases I've underbound, and as you can see not files back the feet. Now days I do.

Also both rods are used in salt water. It is very hard to see detail, but there is minimal or no rust on the feet of these guides. You can however, see rust on the exposed parts of the guides. I havn't cleaned up any of the guides.

I'm not trying to make a point, just thought it interesting.


BTW the latter is graphite.

Roz, on the feet you file down so the thread goes on more smoothly, you can give the exposed bit a quick lick over with a nail varnish ( only thin) seals the guide & dries hard so no exposed metal to start to corrode..

[roz]

That's a good idea.

The only reason I believed we file down the feet of a guide, is a cosmetic, in other words gives as nice smooth profile to the finish. Is that it???

[DR]

That's a good idea.

The only reason I believed we file down the feet of a guide, is a cosmetic, in other words gives as nice smooth profile to the finish. Is that it???

i do it mainly so i can/could bind straight up the foot without stopping, & it involves less time burnishing the thread to close up any gaps where th end of the foot is..
there is a lot less time involved in grinding down a box of guides that trying to close up gaps in the threads... cost again..

[Bearclaw]

Roz you will be surprised on how much you can take off a guide foot before it reduces it's strength. Also the underside of the guide foot needs attention, this is gets overlooked, a chainsaw file works wonders here so the feet sit flush with the blank.

[cammac]

All Rite Guys,
I dont know what your doing to your Rods to have stuffed guides on them?!!!
Ive just checked all my "custom built" rods made by myself and guess what - bugger all signs of Rust!!!!! The oldest Rod would be about 25 years old !! I use Fuji guides and i try and look after my rods!. Fuji as i understand use Stainless and as i understand its stainless that is more suited to salt water applications.
As for underbinding light rods I dont ! and dont believe its necessary! Oh and i have never snaped a rod under normal fishing !!! some would say he doesnt fish - well surprise i do!
With an overhead rod there is no danger of the guide tip diging into the rod because it bending away from the guide - with a spinning rod i dont really think it would happen either. How many ultra light fly rods snap from no underbinding!!
I prep my guides by filing them down so as the thread will climb onto them smoothly them blunten the tips a bit and take any burs made on the edge.
Stuart Im still curious about this reactance between the carbon and stainless guides what percentage carbon rods is this a prob?? Ive got a 20y old Daiwa Carbon Reflex spinning Rod with no name guides... guess what - Perfect!!
By the way I also live near the Ocean where salt is in the air - its a miracle!!!

[roz]

I am about to make my FIRST purchase of stainless guides from a US supplier, they will be going onto another boat rod I am building...YA just can't have tooooo many fishing rods!!

Will be interesting to see how they stand up along side the el cheapo guides I normally use.

As I've already stated, my rods get very rough treatment, I only have two rod holders attached to the transom of my boat for trolling, so everything else that doesn't fit into the ledge under the gunnel, stays on the floor of the boat.

So I think those guides in the photos above, have well and truely paid for them selves.

To be honest one of the main reasons I am buying these guides is visual appeal, on the other hand I can't believe the cost.

A set of el cheapo guides bought here is not much different in price to the guides I am getting from the US.

I remember DR telling me time and time again, the savings are worth the effort. Why is rod building gear costing us so much.

Which leads me to another question.

Why do items like that cost so much more here, I would rather support Australian retailers even though the products are not Australian made.

r.

[cammac]

Roz,

As I said b4 and understand to be correct - Fuji guides are made from Stainless !!! someone can correct me if Im wrong and i would doubt if they were not made from a marine quality grade! I think you shud definetly underbind your rod if you want it to look pretty but then again if you trash your rods .... I wouldnt bother!!!

[roz]

Roz,

As I said b4 and understand to be correct - Fuji guides are made from Stainless !!! someone can correct me if Im wrong and i would doubt if they were not made from a marine quality grade! I think you shud definetly underbind your rod if you want it to look pretty but then again if you trash your rods .... I wouldnt bother!!!

cammac,

If the fuji guides in the photos are stainless, the standard of the metal is quite low.

I don't underbind my guides to make them look "pretty", you appear to be suggesting that.

And I said, my rods get rough treatment, and I explained why..go back and read again.

I DON'T TRASH MY RODS, as you have suggested. I respect my gear a whole lot more than I respect your spin on my post.

r.

[cammac]

Quote one of the main reasons Im buying the guides is for visual appeal!
Quote 2- my rods get very rough treatment!!
Quote 3 - I like the appeal of underbinding aside from anything else!
Whatever!!

As i said Ive got rods 20+ years old with hardly a sign of rust - and yeah ... Bully for Me !!!!

[roz]

Geeeeze....here we go again

the visual appeal of what ever guides I choose, has no connection to the reasons for under binding.

BIG, big difference to very rough treatment and TRASHING. My rods have to travel in my smallish runnabout with virtually no storage.

I actually catch good fish on them, so I must be doing something right...go and have a look lol!!!! woooHooooo!!!!

[Stuart]

Carbon is an electrical conductor and a very good one at that. Put it in a salt water environment and it becomes even more conductive. You won’t experience a problem in most cases because most carbon blanks are painted with either a solid colour or a clear. I don’t get my light weight spin or even fly blanks painted, just sanded to a 2000 grit on the sanding wheels. In this case it’s best to under bind to stop the small charge interacting with the metal. Sanding or filing a guide foot is mainly to stop cracking from the big jump up. It’s best to feather the leading edge of the guide back to around ¾ rather than just grind away at any angle. All guide frames rust no matter what brand they are. The best material I wish they would use is Magnesium alloy, tuff as, wont rust, light as hell and will last 10 life times, the stuff is reasonably priced as well.

Stuart

[Lucky_Phill]

OK, my 2 cents worth........ that's worth about 20 Rupee !!!!

There are many grades of stainless steel. I haven't been able to assertain the grade that Fuji use yet, but will. I doubt there are using Marine Grade..... they don't measure stainless in the way. I suggest the marine Grade refered to hereabouts would be 316. The guides are more likely made from 304 or less.

But I will find out soon.

phill

[Lucky_Phill]

OK, I have done the digging. Still doesn't make sense. According to the Fuji people, they make their own stainless Steel, therefore I cannot compare their product to a Standard. Below is their speil !!



Fuji uses only the highest quality stainless steel in their frames. They use "S-4" Stainless steel material. This stainless material has been specially developed by them to meet the high standards demanded by fisherman and rod builders seeking the best. When tested at Fuji's laboratory against a competitors frame the following results were recorded:

• 89.2% Harder
• 66% stronger tensile strength
• over 10 times larger in the stress corrosion cracking test
• 2.9 times stronger in yield strength
• 48.5% stronger in amplitude permeability
• 54.2% stronger fatigue strength
• 27.5% stronger in elongation

All this basically means is that Fuji's "S-4" Stainless steel is:

• Harder,
• Stronger,
• Corrosion Resistant, and
• Impact Resistant

S-4 stainless...... ?

phill