Hmm, few things to look at , there. I've rewired older boats, and completely wired my new Reefrunner a few years back. A few questions..
1) This boat is only 16ft long. Why are you using no less than 4 separate fuse blocks? Space considerations? I see that 2 of them are directly fed from the Start battery. Your thinking is that you will turn off the House supply every time you get off the boat, and rely on the Start battery for your Auto Bilge pump. I'd be keeping the bilge pump away from the Start battery, I've seen them fault, and flatten the Start battery. General idea is that Start is Start, nothing else, motor sytems only.
2) Switch everything. Including your MFD's and NMEA 2000 bus. This way, you can leave your House switch on. Agree with hard-wired Auto bilge pump, that's a standard, but from the House . You are dealing with , and understand the fact that, modern electronics have a constant drain when off. So you are dealing with this by just turning the House switch off, and hard-wiring bilge pumps and anchor light from the Start. Not what you want if you are anchoring overnight.
3) You mention an AVR--I assume this is a VSR, to control charging of the House from Start , once Start battery voltage starts to rise. I am a fan of VSR's, but NOT the 60/80/120 amp type typically supplied as VSR's for boats. I fitted one of those, failed after 18 months. Next one lasted 12 months. Third one about the same. Started doing some reading of the source material on these things, rather than the sales blurb. And you discover that all these things have a built-in lag. So, if your start battery is still up, and the VSR closed, you are effectively drawing at least a few seconds of start current through the VSR. They don't like 200 amps or more. So they fail. There was a thread on this on this forum a while back. I went with a Redarc VSR, 400 amp rated--another member had one that had lasted 10 years on his boat.
4) I have a bit more going on, like solar, a fridge, and a Travel Buddy. Solar MTTP regulator plugs into the House via an Andersen plug, bolted to top of battery box. Keep the di-electric grease up, no problems. Travel Buddy and Fridge are on mini-isolators. Also have aTuffwinch anchor winch, same size as GX3(?) Lonestar. Wired same as your proposition. And a craypot winch, Maxwell Anchormax, solenoid-controlled direct from House. The winch control also doubles up as a supply for the electric reels when needed.
5) Consider using an intermediate termination strip. While this may seem to be adding complication, it actually makes fault finding or re-wiring so much easier. So, fuse panel--switch--intermediate strip, then to load. And get a little wire numbering kit off ebay, and name everything at every termination. I've put a few pics of my components below. I cettainly don't consider the panel to be anywhere near perfect, but I was extemely time constrained at the time considering I was doing a complete fit-out, was working FIFO, and had a deadline to meet. I've changed it a bit since, the NMEA bus now lives inside the dash, after I made that panel hinged and cut an access to the rear of the dash behind it.
I thhink you are overthinking it a bit, and IMO, should stick to keeping Start battery for motor only, switch everything else, and run it off the House battery.
Switch panel-after looking at all the crap on ebay, bought it from New Wire Marine in the US, very good price. I wired all the tails in before fitting it, keeps it tidy.
If you are doing a layout on the switch panel think ergonomics and accessing things in the dark or bashing into a head sea. My four top switches are VHF, NMEA 200 supply, and my 2 MFD's. So they are the first on.The next two down are anchor and nav lights. Next two, cockpit and cabin lights. Then the rest like fresh water, deckwash, spreader lights, underwater lights can go anywhere. But I kept the wiper switch at the very bottom, right. Because you don't want to be fumbling around the the middle of your panel while you are banging away at speed, you'll be hitting the wrong switch half the time. As my panel space was a bit limited, I went with a remote head VHF and single Towpro engine gauge, and small Axiom stereo.
I know some of this is getting a bit away from your original question, but it may give you something to think about.