Reply With QuoteNow you have me interested, wouldn't you halve the DOD of the battery.Originally Posted by Flex
Hi all,
Has anyone had long term success in running a 24/36v electric motor off a 12v system with a 12-24v converter?
there are a few few converters out now with decent output but im wondering about their longevity and heap dissipation over long term.
cheers
Now you have me interested, wouldn't you halve the DOD of the battery.
Well thats the main disadvantage isnt it..?..Higher current level for the 12v system means more energy is lost due to heat...
You could be dividing by 3 for a 36 volt system. The big advantage to it is allowing easy bulk charging (as high as your DC-DC is rated) and only requiring one large 12 volt house bank. Adam Foley - Outa-line Adventures on yayatube is the only one I have seen/known that has installed the system via Revolution Power. It's been on his boat several months now. Possibly be worth sending him a message.
Bigger cables required - could be pulling 150 odd amps on a 36 volt system at full tilt and there will be a bit of heat loss in the conversion process but power supplies aren't a new thing. Provided the engineering is done properly should be all good. There are some pretty big advantages to be had in terms of charging at sea, not needing an extra battery bank and being able to regulate the output to prevent your electric doing it's best impersonation of a candle.
Can you explain this please Scott..not sure I understand?
Personally on my trailer boat I wouldnt run multiple systems including a 24/36v leccy on my 12v battery bank and for most rec trailer boat guys its not difficult to setup a 36v system that has enough capacity to rarely, if ever, needed to be charged at sea......I do get the point you are making just not the application, in my case at least....
I would be interested to know why Flex is considering this ..?
All to do with manufacturers recommendations to not run for extended times at WOT due to lack of voltage drop and the resultant burn out. A converter can be set (generally at time of manufacture but sometimes via potentiometer) to provide whatever voltage is required so as to never chance burning out the motor should it be run at WOT for extended periods. Guess it depends on how much extended remote area work you do and whether run time to and from spots presents an opportunity for viable amounts of charge. Just a different way of doing it - neither way is going to be right for everyone. Advantages / disadvantages to both.
so you have a few options
The Yandina combiners have been around for years. a real mum-pop company, pretty much a go to in the consumable bass boat scene in the states, we have used them for a decade. they have the most fabulous Geocities looking website as well.
it combinds two batteries 12v into 24v "or 36v depending on model" allowing the engine alternator to still charge up each battery and run house electrics whilst having 24v out. these have higher efficiencies than DC-DC
Or there are buck booster systems ,like the scotty systems, those tend to be far more expensive though
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