Reply With QuoteLast drift speed was 1.5kph, i have seen those ball floats used on youtube and tv one of those would work really well just im not sure about anchoring in 50-60 meters of water thats a lot of rope
https://www.bcf.com.au/p/bla-anchor-...20as%20normal.
anchor ball.jpg
Up until 2 years ago this is all I used....and often fished solo and often on 2 day reef trips in up to 60m of water...
Last drift speed was 1.5kph, i have seen those ball floats used on youtube and tv one of those would work really well just im not sure about anchoring in 50-60 meters of water thats a lot of rope
Ok, not having read all the posts subsequent to this one but I would not buy that motor. Know personally of three friends that have had no end of trouble with Watersnakes, do much so they basically gave them away and went to a MK. This may just be an issue with the higher end models but still a flag for me. A mate has a Motorguide on his boat and while it works well I just can not get used to not knowing what the status is, there is no screen on the remote. Granted he just uses the spotlock and nothing else whereas I would use a lot more functions in the Passage.Originally Posted by gazza2006au
Yep, still have one with a clip to attach to the main line if I can't retrieve it with the anchor winch.
The foam ball system works a treat, been doing it for decades, but an electric is good, probably better in some ways, but not better in some instances.
Yep, still do. Has worked for me for for longer than I can remember.
Matilda
People come to grief all the time, just because some guy did something he shouldn't have (for whatever reason) doesn't mean there is "rogue waves" at that location. People get swept off the rocks at Hill 60 all the time ( often fatal) but it has nothing to do with rogue waves, it's all to do with the ledge they fish off, you fish there, chances are you're going to get wet....or worse.
Hi Noel
Could you elaborate on your thoughts on one vs the other .
I've got a very strong opinion on electric motors & one would be the second option (behind a good sounder) I would add if buying a new boat .
(when fishing) The only downside I have when comparing both systems is when wind / tide are fickle or about assed with one not able to counter the other . You then can have lines going under the boat . This is something you can overcome when using an anchor by where you tie off the rope . This really only applies for bait fishing.
Other than that - A leccy is just leaps & bounds ahead . Speed of deployment , lateral adjust-ability , speed of disengagement , safety , convenience , STEALTH & ability to link with other technology just being the obvious .
Yes you could say until if fails - but no different till you foul an anchor - which could cost 100s in replacement (Sarca plus 7m of chain).
As someone who did a lot of fishing anchored in close to islands or over some pinnacle in anything from 5m - 120m (yes I had 300m of rope) It was a revelation - Imagine the looks you get when you are spotlocked near to a FAD & every other boat has to drift past & try to get a cast in as they race past on the drift. (btw I would only spotlock if I was first in best dressed)
With the right sized leccy shaft - you can spotlock in pretty horrible conditions - 15-20knts .... the limitation being battery capacity.
Anyone who has fished with me has at very least commented on how good this is - if not looked to adding a leccy to their own boat.
Yes the anchors are still carried & I have used it in place of the leccy ...... once or twice in the last 5 years
Chris
Give a man a fish & he will eat for a day !
Teach him how to fish
& he will sit in a boat - & drink beer all day!
TEAM MOJIKO
Not really saying an electric is not as good, but, to me, for anchoring/positioning for a long time, then an anchor would be preferable, in really deep water, an electric is better as it is for "prospecting" then, overnighting, anchor every time, in bad conditions, an anchor, there's room for both systems. I guess in a funny way, we have just become accustomed to "gizmos" doing work for us, remote control on the TV, lights, fan, air cond, power windows, remote locking in your car, drive through fast food, right down to lining up someone's house with a tree years ago to fish, to using a GPS and an electric to save us manually doing any work or think, if you get what I mean.
In my mates boat we can spot lock for up to 2 hours in the one spot, the first hour is burleying the next hour getting good quality fish. Often we are fishing a bommie only 5m wide, at anchor we can swing a 40 metre arc, while good for spreading burley over a large area we've found it better to keep it fairly tight.
To look at it from my own personal situation (I have both systems) for winter Bream fishing, I use the anchor, it's only at best 3m deep and I tend to stay in the one spot for a few hours, plus it's usually blowing a westerly gale....Snapper fishing is a 50/50 the shallow plastics spots, it's either drift or spot lock, for 20-30m it's anchor, for deeper water, (over 40m) almost always spot lock, for gamefishing places like "the Banks" where the current is real bad, then an anchor if we are cubing or livebaiting, or spot lock for maybe jigging, as I said, there's room/need for both, now, how you pull the anchor up is a personal thing, by hand, a capstan, a winch or a ball/buoy, once again, all systems work.
Well, back on the subject of winches----bit of thread drift, there..... the type you refer to is known as a windlass type, vs the drum type. I have owned and exyensively operated both. Simply being smaller and less obvious on the deck doesn't make them an obvious choice.
-Windlass type - Windlas type need a lot of vertical drop under the deck entry or they will simply not work. A wide, shallow space is useless. With ALL the rope on board you need a minimum of 300mm between the top of the rope pile and thebottom of the deck the rope comes through. This is non-negotiable. If you don't have this amount of space, the rope will jam in the gypsy. They are not limited to length as drums are, just a matter of how big the well beneath is.
----and this bring me to the other aspect. The rope. You will need to use expensive rope of the right size. The very best, and in my opinion as a user, the only type to use is 8-strand plait nylon. Probably 12mm. Get online and see how much that will cost you per metre. The rope needs to be soft and "fall" into a pile in the well. 3-strand nylon can do the job, less expensive, but you will need to wash it with fabric softener or something similar to keep it soft and pliable. Forget about doing it on the cheap with silver rope, it will just jam up. And you will be blaming the winch. Note--just had a look online, prices are wildly varying, but mostly $5-10 per metre.
--You will have to splice 8-strand plait, as you need a smooth transition between the rope and chain. No shackles. Plenty of youtube videos on how to do it. And don't forget to hose and soak the rope before you go out, even 8-strand plait can jam up feeding out for the first time after drying out.
Drum type-- if you have the space, an under-deck drum winch can't be beaten. Obviously, your fore-deck arrangement will dictate how easy this will be. If under-deck, they will normally be mounted vertically on the forward collision bulkhead. This will probably need an extra layer of ply laminated on for strength, these things develop a lot of pull.
---rope. You can use anything you like, just depends on how much you want to fit, obviously the smaller the CSA, the more you can fit. Dyneema is the best for this, can be expensive, cheaper than 8-strand , but you only need 5mm, shop around. Sheathed nylon is cheaper, you only need 6-8mm. Some come as a kit with maybe 100m of nylon sheathed included, mine did, I added 50m of 5mm dyneema then top-shotted with 30m of 12mm silver rope. Which is actually the weakest of the three different types . 8mm Double braid sheathed can be under a dollar a metre. Polyester is cheaper than nylon of the same construction.
--this can be joined any way you like, as you don't need to run through a gypsy, so no need to splice together different types.
--any type of winch probably needs a different bowsprit. You need something the rope can't jump out of. And which will keep the anchor clear of the hull. If fitting a drum, factor in adding a convex roller betwen the bowsprit and the winch, so it will layer on instead of piling up in the middle. I am using a Tuffwinch, which has been perfect, but added a Lonestar deck roller, and the rope never bunches up.
Im seeing the electric motor vs a electric anchor both have there dissadvantages
I cant anchor at the fads, electric motor will spot lock but batteries will run flat
Electric anchor over the ball float is just a press of the button oh lala luxury
Looking at electric winches the chinese models start at $800 the aussie models start around $1300 both drum winches
Been looking at the drum qinches over the windlass as the drum winch rope winds on the spool where as the gypsy's rely on friction and if it slips it'll be useless
Would love the electric troll motor tho cost a lot more money
I would just use the anchor ball for now and this is what I would be saving up for if i were you...
https://www.motormarine.com.au/listi...-pinpoint-gps/
About $1600 cheaper than the equivalent Minn Kota..
I'm a bit confused though...you say you dont anchor much and mainly fish in shallow water and seem to just do half day trips so why cant one of your deckies pull the anchor or the rope once the anchor ball does the job..?
Its really not that hard..
Yep, pulling the anchor with a ball is simple stuff, not a lot of work involved.
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