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Thread: My 2400 Kevlacat build

  1. #31

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Has exactly the same thing happen to mine., While hub fell off on side of hideway.

    Unless your prepared to change axles every 5 years I would steer clear of torsion suspension for a boat

  2. #32

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    That was my plan flex, start switching them out a 5 to 6 years, its not cost prohibitive and its good piece of mind. Big downside to the design not being able to see how bad they are internally. A mate has tapped a fitting into the drain hole on his and connects it to the hose after each trip to flush out the inside... Might help a litle bit getting the salt out but I guess you still have moisture in there

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  3. #33

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Quote Originally Posted by wahoofishingcrew View Post
    That was my plan flex, start switching them out a 5 to 6 years, its not cost prohibitive and its good piece of mind. Big downside to the design not being able to see how bad they are internally. A mate has tapped a fitting into the drain hole on his and connects it to the hose after each trip to flush out the inside... Might help a litle bit getting the salt out but I guess you still have moisture in there

    Sent from my VOG-L09 using Tapatalk
    Oil filled section if you could find one that wouldn't react with the rubber?

  4. #34

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Wash out under pressure with a fitting using a salt remover then a good blast of air from the compressor might be an option.

  5. #35

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Quote Originally Posted by scottar View Post
    Wash out under pressure with a fitting using a salt remover then a good blast of air from the compressor might be an option.
    Great idea scottar, the air should make a difference. Are the salt removal products actually better than water or are they just marketing?



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  6. #36

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    From personal experience using at least a decent wash and wax is a big step up on salt removal over using plain water. When I had my previous alloy rig, for a lot of years I only used fresh water to wash down - lots of it. My boats have pretty much always been stored under cover - the last 20 odd years indoors. When washed with water only, if we had a few days of rain, you could wipe liquid water off the hull of the tinnie. Once I started washing with wash and wax - no more moisture. I hadn't bothered with off the shelf salt removal products until this year - inheriting a bottle more a less with the passing of my father. I've used it a few times now and am starting to think it's legit. The lower engine pans on my outboard create an area that is extremely difficult to ensure all the salt has been washed off and have always "made water" the same as the tinnie used to that runs down the leg and settles on the AV plate. The last few washes with SX50 has seen a marked reduction in this - nearly no water being present during wet weather.

  7. #37

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Quote Originally Posted by scottar View Post
    From personal experience using at least a decent wash and wax is a big step up on salt removal over using plain water. When I had my previous alloy rig, for a lot of years I only used fresh water to wash down - lots of it. My boats have pretty much always been stored under cover - the last 20 odd years indoors. When washed with water only, if we had a few days of rain, you could wipe liquid water off the hull of the tinnie. Once I started washing with wash and wax - no more moisture. I hadn't bothered with off the shelf salt removal products until this year - inheriting a bottle more a less with the passing of my father. I've used it a few times now and am starting to think it's legit. The lower engine pans on my outboard create an area that is extremely difficult to ensure all the salt has been washed off and have always "made water" the same as the tinnie used to that runs down the leg and settles on the AV plate. The last few washes with SX50 has seen a marked reduction in this - nearly no water being present during wet weather.
    Thanks mate that's interesting. I notice the same pooling/marks on my av plate from water running down and occasionally salt buildup once its dried despite washing with soapy water and rinising as well as I can under the cowls. Ill grab some and see if I notice a difference. The reason I ask is I have seen it advertised heavily on facebook for the last few months and alot of the comments seem to be bagging it... But in typical internet fashion its likely guys that haven't actually tried it

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  8. #38

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    I still wash with wash and wax - remove the cowl and hose it in via a mixing unit. Then last thing is a quick hit with the SX50 the same way and leave it there. I've run wash and wax through the engine for years but have started doing the final quick hit with SX50 there too via the wash port as well as a quick spray over the whole boat. Whether it's a placebo thing or not, I couldn't say but I almost think the boat comes up better too. I get the internet doubt - the stuff isn't cheap but thus far the results sort of speak for themselves.

  9. #39

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    the joys of freshwater fishing means i dont have to do anything now but wipe the brown scum mark off

    but before that when i lived in sydney i had a hot/cold watertap added to the side of the house and would wash the boat down with warm water and car wash
    made a big difference to the amount of salt removed.

  10. #40

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    From a science point of view, warm/hot water is probably the best thing to dissolve salt, however, it requires lots of fresh water to fully wash the salt and salty water away, proprietary products help with the "finish" when used to wash your boat. Almost all of the products you buy can help, no doubt about it, but warm water will get rid of salt, without any help. Then there is another issue, it's not just salt in the water, there is a host of minerals and other "stuff" that can cause issue later on, some products can help with removing or at least, diluting these minerals, a warm motor sitting in salt water is an ideal place for these minerals to start to build up, it takes time, but, it does happen.

  11. #41

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    I never flushed the internals of my engines with anything but fresh water. Usually at least 30 minutes after the outboard comes up to temperature. I bought a 2008 Suzuki DF50 at the end of 2008 and have I guess less than 300hours on it from new and flushed it religiously. Even when there was long periods between fishes I’d run the muffs on it at home.

    After a trip in January where I’d done some shallow water exploring, just as I got back to the ramp on the last day I got an over heat alarm. Immediately shut it down and let it cool before retrieving the boat. Back at home on the muffs it was getting hotter than usual. I noticed water bubbling up out of the hole where the gear selector goes down into the leg. I replaced the thermostat and the impeller and everything seemed normal. A lot of messing around and the problem wasn’t fixed.

    I had an inkling that the water pressure relief valve had something stuck in it. In this model you have to remove the block to get to it. So I decided to run some white vinegar through the engine. Got a wheelie bin under the outboard. Mixed vinegar about 50/50 with water and ran it up to temp about 10 times before letting it cool. The amount of sand/salt and other minerals that were left in the bottom of the bin once I was done really surprised me. Thinking of making it a yearly routine.
    Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.

  12. #42

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Interesting Lovey80, i was also pedantic about flushing and maintenance on my zooks. Flush for 15mins on the muffs then 5 mins through the water port flush. Soapy wash under cowls after every trip. Annodes changed and oil cooler cleaned ever year. Still ended up with corrosion in the exhaust port.

    I came back from a 2 hour run and noticed oil leaking when I was strapping it back on trailer. A cover plate under the power head had corroded through and let go as it was cooling after the run. Lucky it didnt happen at sea or it'd be dead zook! Outside they looked immaculate but inside was a different story.

    I now run the yams in a flush bag which will hopefully help with warm water opening the thermostat on the flush. Pulled the annodes and thermo at 20hours and there was no salt buildup so hopefully it stays that way. Ill start with the anti salt wash stuff now too.

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  13. #43

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Nice rig there wahoo ,Ive got ask why the swap from suzuki to yamy .

  14. #44

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Quote Originally Posted by chris69 View Post
    Nice rig there wahoo ,Ive got ask why the swap from suzuki to yamy .
    Thanks mate, just not a fan of the zooks. After looking after them and the corrosion I'd never touch one again. For the trips I do they were working hard, gutless and noisey. Cant really compare them to the yams as theres an extra 70hp but the boat performs enormously better with the yams. I've had a few zooks, mercs and yams and the yams have always been the least trouble in my personal experience so just went back to them.

    Choice was really between merc or yam but I bought a new set of 90 ct mercs a few years ago and they were great motors but still had their issues. Yams were the most expensive option but plan on keeping it long term so cost wasnt really a factor. Will see how they go anyway!



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  15. #45
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seaforth QLD & Cairns

    Re: My 2400 Kevlacat build

    Love the YBS gear, is there a fisho that doesn't watch that show... for the fishing of course
    Cheers
    Corry

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