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Thread: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

  1. #91
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by chris69 View Post
    Giddyup tell me how does the basalt glass wet out compered to chop strand or Double bias i seen it but never worked with it,it looked like a piece of carbon sandwiched between fiberglass.

    Going what ive seen the basalt is so much tougher than normal fiberglass,if there mixed some innigera in with it that would be a great external skin to have in a boat hull.
    Wet out is very easy. Much easier than any fiberglass product I have used. Probably easier than carbon.
    The thicker of the 2 basalts (called Twill) is about 225gsm and is apparently stronger than 600DB. I chose to apply 3 laminates with epoxy (no CSM needed between layers), to attach the outside skin of the pod.
    I had earlier attached the bunk tops in the cabin and the inside laminate of the cabin bulkhead with 1 laminate of basalt and a 225gsm choppy backing (poly resin). Reasoning was that I am testing the glass and if it fails in those areas, it will be very easy to effect repairs.

    The look of it is very disappointing. It ends up a dun dark brown and doesn't look anything special, but I am assured that it is phenomenally strong.
    Again, time will tell.

  2. #92
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    YIPPI-KAI-AY!

    Finally got the lid on the pod.

    The water tank has slowed things down somewhat, but I think at the end of the day, it was time well spent.
    To get water from the tank, I drilled a 1' hole as low as I could get it through the transom (of the boat) into the water tank.
    That was then filled with epoxy glue, which was successful after 2 goes...
    Next, I drilled out a 16mm hole through the epoxy "plug" and ran a tapered tap down it to screw in a BSP 1/2" male thread hose tail.

    That all went well, so next step was to coat the entire tank with epoxy flowcoat, which is food grade, so we can drink the water..

    Gave it all a good hand sand, acetone wipe and taped off all glue surfaces:
    IMG_1385.jpg IMG_1386.jpg

    Applied the epoxy flow coat:
    IMG_1389.jpg IMG_1388.jpg

    Applied liberal amounts of epoxy glue, and sat the lid on, weighted down with a couple blocks:
    IMG_1390.jpg IMG_1391.jpg

    Next job will be to glass the lid on. I'll probably use triple layers of basalt and epoxy.

  3. #93

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I always wondered how boat builders manage to glass down the floors to all the floor supports? Any insights on how hats done?
    Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.

  4. #94
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Lovey80 View Post
    I always wondered how boat builders manage to glass down the floors to all the floor supports? Any insights on how hats done?
    Can't.
    If there's no access, there's no effective glassing.
    Epoxy glue is about as good as can be done.
    I used to think that the floor should be screwed off as well, but I've changed my thinking as I have seen floors rot around the screws, even though the whole top of the floor was glassed after it was screwed down.
    Vinyl glue is also very strong, but not as strong as epoxy.
    Some boats I've pulled apart had a layer of wet choppy on top of the stringers and the floor was nailed to that, (sometimes copper nails, however most builders from the old days just used mild steel), but in most cases, there was little or no adhesion.

  5. #95
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Very happy with today's effort.

    The lid/duckboard is finally fixed to pod and boat:

    IMG_1392.jpg IMG_1395.jpg

    I'm so impressed with the basalt fibre.
    It is, without doubt, the easiest "glass" I have ever used.

    Check this out:
    IMG_1394.jpg IMG_1396.jpg

    It seems capable of going around any corner or compound curve. None of the laminates in the above photos needed any relief cuts.
    Just a joy to use.

    That brings us to a stage where the structure of the boat is nearly done.

    All I need to do now is increase the size of the anchor locker to fit a GX1 LSM drum winch under the deck and to attend to the pod to bottom of hull join.
    I'll look after the latter when I get the boat higher off the ground to facilitate preparing and painting the hull. It will need a decent grind to get the glass work below the level of the existing structute, so it can then be filled and faired.

    If it doesn't look like it was done in the factory, I haven't tried hard enough...

  6. #96

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    When I did my floor years ago (and it still perfect today) I just mixed up some "bog" resin and talc, spread it liberally on the floor supports, then placed the floor down and screwed with big stainless countersunk screws. I have seen it done with chopped strand strips placed on the supports and the floor placed on that, but doing it on your own you need to be confident with your fit and mixture.

  7. #97

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Very good thread, again many thanks .....a question cos my eyes are old and tired, and cant pick it in the photos....when you form the mould and then start laying up the glass in the pod...do you put a fillet down the right angle joins or is this new glass more tolerant of bending 90 degrees?

  8. #98

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hows progress?

  9. #99
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by inveratta View Post
    Very good thread, again many thanks .....a question cos my eyes are old and tired, and cant pick it in the photos....when you form the mould and then start laying up the glass in the pod...do you put a fillet down the right angle joins or is this new glass more tolerant of bending 90 degrees?
    I start with a 450 choppy, which will nicely conform to the right angle.
    The following 450gsm or 600D/B also easily does the 90 and as more and more laminates go on, a radius self forms,
    You could go to the trouble of forming a nice neat plastercine cove, but why bother?

  10. #100
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    I was losing too much time with daily updates, so I thought I'd post at milestones...

    When I left off, I had just glued and glassed down the duckboard.
    I'm pretty happy with the look, so I had a play with the aft deck:

    IMG_1406.jpg IMG_1408.jpg

    The original rear deck slipped over the transom and was neatened with an alloy strip. Absolutely no strength whatever.
    I decided to cut the side decks shorter and recess the aft deck onto the transom core timbers and glass it on so it looked like it was moulded that way.

    IMG_1407.jpg
    This shot shows how much the as yet untouched stb'd deck had to be shortened.

    Given that the pod bolts were all in place, I could finish putting the cockpit floor down and prepped the inner transom for glassing:
    IMG_1412.jpg IMG_1413.jpg
    The idea was to put a battery on port side and the oil tank on stb'd side, hence the fences glassed to the floor on stb'd side.
    I later changed the set up after talking to ol' mate Cyril, as he assured me that the oil tank is 100% water proof and infact is a pressurised container.
    As such, I have enough room in the still open bilge to mount the oil tank under the floor together with an auto 1100gph bilge pump and put a second battery on stb'd side.
    There is an infill piece to cover the open bilge, but I have yet to cut holes in it for water to get to the bilge.

    Next, I had to attach the side decks again and glass them to the transom.
    IMG_1416.jpg IMG_1415.jpg

    After that was done, I left the actual rear deck removeable, as I had half an idea to do a live bait/storage tank.
    So I turned my mind to the gunwhale rubber.

    The gunnel rubber was actually an alloy section with a small rubber insert to cover the fixing heads, which looks beaut when new, but can't take any sort of impact without being banged out of shape.
    Consequenly, I wanted to come up with a method of attaching a normal rubber and I found a 3mm alloy "L" section, 12mm x 20mm.
    The intention is to fix the 12mm to the deck moulding, and the rubber will slip on nicely at a slight skewed angle, allowing the rubber to also seal on the topside.

    First thing to do, is to get rid of all the pop rivet heads. Not a drama, as at some stage the deck and topsides joint was glassed from the inside.

    IMG_1430.jpg IMG_1431.jpg
    Here, the heads have all been ground down and patched with epoxy bog. Also guide coated and ready to sand.

    The reverse chines were badly weathered and had hundreds of micro cracks, so I ground all the gel coat off and epoxied on some basalt weave. That should fix it. Epoxy bogged and ready to fair.

    Next, it was time to fabricate a live bait tank.
    Using white board as formers, I came up with this:
    IMG_1435.jpg

    Removed it from the boat, and started glassing:
    IMG_1432.jpg IMG_1433.jpg

    And then attached it permenantly to the boat:

    Limit of photos.

    To be continued...

  11. #101
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    As I was saying -

    Attached permenantly to boat and then started fairing:
    IMG_1443.jpg IMG_1445.jpg
    The live bait tank adds a lot of strength to the transom, as when glassed on, it forms a girder section exactly where it is needed

    The bog makes it look a lot worse than it is:
    IMG_1446.jpg IMG_1448.jpg
    But it sands pretty easily.

    It was then at the stage where I needed to prepare the hull, topsides and a bit of the deck for high-build, so I shadow coated everything and sanded with a 400mm speed board and a 300 hand board.
    All of the existing gelcoat was hand sanded with 80 grit and the epoxy bog with 40 grit.

    To make the job a bit easier, I lifted the boat an extra 200mm (It took 7 minutes - I timed it):
    IMG_1455.jpg

    I can now drop either side by hand to the keel/chine plane to make sanding under the hull and duckboard much esier.
    It rests on the 3" sleeper under the back of the boat:
    IMG_1449.jpg IMG_1453.jpg

    It took a good few sessions to fair the bogged work, and it was then ready for highbuild.
    I only sprayed highbuild onto the bogged areas, as the rest of the boat will need only 1 coat.
    After the highbuilded areas have been sanded, it will get it's second coat at the same time as the rest of the boat.
    IMG_1485.jpg IMG_1486.jpg IMG_1488.jpg IMG_1490.jpg

    The green dots up the side of the cockpit are where I have had to grind out holes where fittings were placed.
    Won't take much to fix. Tape on the inside, a small epoxy/basalt patch, epoxy bog, sand, done!
    Im not in a hurry to do them, as I still have to fill the holes from old school deck fittings, aerials, hand holds and the like. When they have all been removed and ground, I will repair them all at the one time.
    All the repair work to the topsides has been done, so I just need to get under the hull and repair 45 years of bumps and scrapes.

    All good fun.

    When I paint, I will be sticking with my favourite boat colour, "Oyster White".

    Photos when done.

    Hopefully soon...

  12. #102

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    You still sanding giddy ?

  13. #103

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Bump! any progress??

  14. #104

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Yep..one of the best threads in quite a while for the sheer competence on display..

  15. #105
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.
    unfortunately, after my last post, I have not had a chance to even look at the Haines, as I picked up a Sunrunner LE 3700 that needed new motors and a bit of other work.
    I’ve taken photos and may put it up as a rebuild thread.
    I hope to be able to get back into the Haines in a couple of months.
    It won’t take too much to finish and It would be really nice to have it finished by Xmas too.

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