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Thread: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

  1. #76
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I had a thought about the swim platform today, so I couldn't help myself.

    1/2" marine ply core and a heap of glass top and bottom = new lid:
    IMG_1337.jpg

    It's that dark colour because I used the basalt glass - 3 layers with 225 choppy in between on top and 2 of the same on the bottom, to try to keep the weight down a bit.
    It's sitting on the garage floor curing for the night, so it will hopefully stay straight.
    I'll have a play with it tomorrow to see if it will be strong enough, but I'm guessing that it will need a heavily glassed skirt around the outer edge and perhaps a s/s strut on each side.
    But a duckboard is a great addition for this type of family boat, so it's worth doing.

    In order to fabricate the duckboard, I had to re-measure everything, again, and give the pod a tickle here and there and now its all at the right height and level.
    IMG_1338.jpg

    I got the drain hole into the original transom, so the full hull can drain through the pod, and fitted the bung in the back of the pod.
    Next, all the new drain holes will need copious dousing with epoxy sealant (everdure or the like) and then I'm actually thinking of putting a floor into the pod from chine to chine so the water from the boat can be isolated and drain through the rear drain hole, and adding another floor about 300mm above that. Once coated with either Vinyl ester or epoxy, it will make a (roughly) 100 litre water tank.
    I'm not worried about the weight, as my 250 is a 2stroke and the pod is a floater and the boat was originally designed for a 500kg sterndrive. So I don't think 100kg of water will bother it at all...
    And it will be beaut to carry fresh water for a deck shower.
    There is still room above the "lid" of the water tank to access the bottom bolts of the engine.
    Unfortunately, there is not enough room to mount the oil reservoir in there as well. I may well have another look at that...
    Perhaps a stepped tank...
    Or no tank at all...

  2. #77
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    I decided to add a skirt to the outer perimeter of the duckboard.
    Simply cut up some pine I had lying around to make a former which was then epoxied under the duckboard, smoothed off then glassed:

    Here is the "former" pine cut to shape and attached to the underside of the duck board:
    IMG_1342.jpg

    After the epoxy had gone off, I shaped and smoothed the attachments and gave it 3 layers of basalt glass:
    IMG_1343.jpg IMG_1344.jpg

    When that had dried off sufficiently, I ground off all the dags and test fitted to the pod:
    IMG_1345.jpg IMG_1348.jpg

    I'm pretty happy with the results.

    Next, I will get the alloy strap and S/S bolts and fasten the pod and then (maybe) construct the water tank and try to get the lid glassed on and the outside of the pod glassed to the hull.

    Then, the boat will be getting very close to the end of the structural build.

    Only a couple things left to do.

    I'd like to deepen and strengthen the anchor locker so an LSM drum winch will fit and mount properly, and the way the rear deck that caps off the transom is mounted is hideous, so I'll have a look at that and probably widen the deck by about 150mm, which will have everything at the aft end of the cockpit lining up correctly.

    More soon...

  3. #78
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    You do some tidy work mate...the duckboard looks great.
    When undertaking such a project what is the advantage of a pod like that over a full width hull/pod extension..?

  4. #79
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by disorderly View Post
    You do some tidy work mate...the duckboard looks great.
    When undertaking such a project what is the advantage of a pod like that over a full width hull/pod extension..?
    Thanks Dis.

    Yes, I think that the duckboard evolved quite nicely too.

    Your question is difficult to answer simply.

    This boat does not need a full width hull extension, as the 19C were rated for a 260hp sterndrive, which weigh 500kg... The 250hp Merc weighs half that.
    I did a very narrow (600mm at water line) shallow (450mm) pod, which actually blends into the boat and looks like it was meant to be there.
    I believe that I could actually flood half of the pod (about 100 litres) and not upset the handling characteristics of the hull.

    When converting a sterndrive boat to outboard power, it's a huge job to create that last meter of the deck with an outboard well from scratch and have it look like it was meant to be there..
    Yes, it can be done, but it's a big job, and most would not get it to look factory.
    The alternative is the "flat transom" look, which I don't mind at all, except when people hang the outboard 750mm off the back. It just looks wrong.

    I've decided to run a hull extension, but only 450mm long, which is aesthetically pleasing, to my eye at any rate.
    That came about, because a duckboard at 500mm wide is a useful size.
    IF I had stuck with an old school 2.5litre 200hp Merc, the 450 would have gone pretty close to working at full tilt.
    But the 2012 250hp mercury is a MUCH bigger motor, and will need more room.

    I'm now a believer in jack plates. My 24' Mustang was undriveable until I lifted it 5" above where we started, and it was a major effort to keep lifting it, to the point where I had to rebuild the 300mm clear water pod.
    A jack plate would have saved me a lot of effort.

    Long story short - 450mm rear set hull extension, 150mm jack plate, and if necessary, cut into the back of the "flat" transom (I'm thinking 100mm to 150mm) to get the Merc to fit.

    It should look right,( we will find out soon enough!), we should be able to get full tilt from the outboard, and it should handle well with the 6" setback jack plate.

    If it doesn't do all the above, I have no-one to blame but myself.
    I think pods/hull extensions/jack plates are a black art, but my gut is telling me that it should work well.

    We'll see...

  5. #80
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I cant believe how long it took to bolt the pod on today.

    I spent the morning actually working for a change, and didn't get to play with the boat until after lunch.

    It all started well enough.
    Hit the road to the alloy merchants and purchased a couple metres of 50 x 6 flat alloy bar.
    Next stop was to get a dozen 100mm 316 S/S bolts and nuts.
    Plenty of epoxy at home - just do it.

    Well, it then took a further 3 hours. I don't know where the time went, but the last bolts were fitted after sun set...

    From inside pod:
    IMG_1353.jpg

    From inside boat:
    IMG_1355.jpg

    No shortage of epoxy glue here folks.
    I filled everything, and fixed the nuts with big dollops of epoxy glue.
    When the excess threads are cut off and the visible fixings are painted, nothing will look out of place.

    I'm just glad it's done. That was a really messy job, but I believe totally necessary.

    Every day, getting closer...

  6. #81

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Looking good!

    Do the pod "stringers" physically continue through the transom and connect/become the hull stringers, or is the pod solely glassed and bolted into place? How was the Mustang done?

  7. #82
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by CT View Post
    Looking good!

    Do the pod "stringers" physically continue through the transom and connect/become the hull stringers, or is the pod solely glassed and bolted into place? How was the Mustang done?
    Both the Mustang and the Haines were done the same way.
    The pod was glassed to the hull with a double thick layup tabbing to the transom.
    This thick "flange", about 12mm thick, was then through bolted to the transom with 1/2" S/S bolts.
    The outside of the pod will be glassed to the original boat around it's entire contact perimeter.
    I will use the new basalt glass and probably epoxy resin for 3 overlapping layers.

    The Mustang has showed no signs of weakness with 300hp on the back...

  8. #83

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Thanks for that. I know bugger all about pods so good to learn a few things.

  9. #84
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Got a bit more done on the pod today.

    I started by scribing and fitting a land across the transom to help seal the pod lid/swim platform.
    I then cut down the keel extension to the height where I could fit a flat floor to isolate the bilge and allow the rest of the boat to drain from the rear drain plug in the pod and glassed it in:
    IMG_1372.jpg IMG_1373.jpg

    I didn't want timber in the bilge floor, so I lay up a 5mm thick solid glass floor and scribed and fitted it in place
    Before it could be permanently glued in place, I needed to flowcoat the under floor area and the bottom of the floor:
    IMG_1374.jpg

    Then it was time to epoxy glue the floor in, which needed to be done in 2 pieces, joining on the top of the keel stringer. I also epoxied on the transom mounted lid land:
    IMG_1375.jpg

    The floor was fully epoxied down and epoxy glue fillets were added and the floors were weighted to set them properly.

    No sense trying to do any more until the epoxy goes off, so I had an early day today.

    Given that I have decided to go ahead with the built in water tank, I will do the glassing in of the floor in epoxy and biaxial.

    More soon.

  10. #85

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Looking good there, very neat work.

  11. #86
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I didn't get much time to play today, but I did modify the centre stringer of the pod to support the walls of the water tank.
    I'll keep a space free to service the bottom engine bolts and the rest will be water tank. As the tank will be triple coated in epoxy resin, I have decided to use epoxy for all of the internal glassing.

    Here, the floor of the tank has been glassed in with epoxy and 2 staggered layers of 450DB and the centre stringer has been installed with the same lay-up.
    IMG_1376.jpg IMG_1377.jpg

    I will have to cut out a couple mouse holes for the water to get to the entire tank.
    The tank will carry about 100 litres, which will be plenty for a deck shower.

    Tomorrow, the intention is to finish the tank, which includes fitting its lid, the duckboard...

  12. #87
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    The greatest made plans of mice and men...

    I did not get the duck-board on today, and I'll be lucky if it happens tomorrow.
    I forgot what a PITA epoxy was.
    Waiting overnight for it to dry sufficiently to continue with the job really slows things down.

    Today, I glassed in the parts to form the water tank in the pod:
    IMG_1380.jpg IMG_1382.jpg IMG_1381.jpg

    So obviously, the space in front of the transom is separate from the water tank, as that's where the lower bolts of the outboard go.

    I agonised over the pick up point for the water and I decided to drill an oversized hole through the boat's transom and back fill it with thickened epoxy and then redrill after it goes off and cut a 1/2" BSP thread so I can literally screw in a S/S hose tail fitting to feed a water pump.
    That was going fine, until I decided to use some epoxy that I had mixed a bit earlier, and it wouldn't thicken properly with aerosil and stayed runny. I don't know why I persevered, but I ended up propping blocks in place to stop the ooze.
    I have no doubt I'm going to regret that tomorrow when I have a look...
    IMG_1383.jpg

    The hole managed to miss all the bolts and bulkheads etc and it came out in exactly the right place, so I guess I got 1 right...
    That's OK. We fix in the morning.

    I used a triple overlapping laminates of the basalt "glass" to attach the outside of the pod to the transom, which I believe to be overkill, but given that I have never used it before, I'm happy to err on the side of caution. I'll get under the boat tomorrow and do the same between pod and hull.

    Also on the agenda for tomorrow, is to paint out the entire pod tank with epoxy flow coat developed and sold by AA Composites in Brisbane.
    It's not cheap, but it is epoxy and it is food grade, so the tank water will be safe to drink. I really only intend to use it as a transom shower to get the salt water off.

    I also need to put a couple of holes in the centre stringer in the tank so water can pass.

    Hopefully, I can get the pod lid on, so I can then start on paint preparation.

    I'm champing at the bit to see how this little boat will go with 250hp...

  13. #88

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Are you putting a water tank in the pod? Kind of negates the flotation advantage of having a pod doesn't it?

  14. #89
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Noelm View Post
    Are you putting a water tank in the pod? Kind of negates the flotation advantage of having a pod doesn't it?
    Given that the boat was designed to carry a 500kg sterndrive and I'm fitting a 220kg outboard and possibly 100kg of water, I don't see a problem.
    Worst case scenario - it handles like a pig because it's stern heavy, in which case, I'll not put water in the water tank.
    But I expect that the balance will not be upset at all.
    Find out soon enough...

  15. #90

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Giddyup tell me how does the basalt glass wet out compered to chop strand or Double bias i seen it but never worked with it,it looked like a piece of carbon sandwiched between fiberglass.

    Going what ive seen the basalt is so much tougher than normal fiberglass,if there mixed some innigera in with it that would be a great external skin to have in a boat hull.

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