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Thread: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

  1. #46
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Apr 2014
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    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    Over the weekend, I got the fuel tank enclosure floor glassed in:
    IMG_1252.jpg

    Then it was time to get the floors done.
    I started by drilling drain/vent holes between the spaces, then treating the penetrations with a few coats of epoxy sealant- not that I ever expect water to get in there...
    I used 2 sheets of 1/2" ply, but given that the widest point was 720mm, I had to use 1 full piece and the other needed to have a bit joined on, leaving sufficient from the 2 sheets to make the centre floor/hatch.
    It confirmed the method - I had to glass underneath the underside of the floors to properly join the 2 pieces for the port side floor.
    Also, if all 3 parts of the floor are glassed underneath, there will be no height issues between the sheets when fitted.

    IMG_1253.jpg IMG_1254.jpg

    In order to mount the outer floors, I had to epoxy cleats to the inside of the inner stringers to carry the floors and to leave a good sized land for the centre floor/hatch.
    All the cleats were epoxied in place and given 3 coats of epoxy sealant.
    The floors went down onto a bed of epoxy glue and held in place by screws (removed after cured) and weights.

    I then prepared the centre floor and gave it good clearance to the 2 outer floors so I have room to finish trim with alloy angle.
    IMG_1256.jpg

    Next, I laminated another skin onto the rear bulkhead to neaten things up and started with continuation of stringers to the transom:
    IMG_1257.jpg

    Lastly, I stripped all of the dead timber from the aft deck/transom capping, and gave it a good build up of glass (rather than a 6mm ply core which came out), and I replaced the 3/4" timbers on the ends:
    IMG_1259.jpg

    This piece was used by the factory as a transom "cap", leaving bare transom ply under it. Not Ideal.
    I have a 1/2 formed idea to modify the cap and glass it permanently to the transom, inside and out, thus strengthening the transom massively (no previous mechanical fixing of transom to deck), and totally waterproofing it.
    If I then over size drill and epoxy fill then redrill the right size all transom penetrations, there's no reason the transom will not last indefinitely.

  2. #47

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi giddyup

    I have been following your thread with keen interest as I am in the process of restoring a punt style aluminium boat for future crabbing. It was actually my father's last boat so there is a sentimental aspect to this project. You mentioned in a previous post that you used an epoxy sealant to coat the plywood floor before placement. I am at the stage of fitting the plywood sheets during lockdown 3 and am researching possible products for this purpose {Norseal epoxy wood treatment and International Everdure are listed online). I am hoping that you might be willing to nominate the product or trade name that you used to preserve the plywood. I only have experience with furniture grade preservatives such as Danish or decking oils and carbothane products which would not be suitable for marine use. It will have to be simple to apply as I am a crap painter. Thanks for any advice in advance. Cheers SS

  3. #48
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hey SS.

    I've always used Everdure, which is a very good product, until recently, when AA Composites in Hemmant (Brisbane) formulated their own equivalent epoxy sealant.
    They just call it "timber sealant" - not much imagination there, but it works exactly the same as everdure and is easier, for me, to get hold of as AA are local.
    They also have an excellent mail order business, so everything can be mailed to your door step. I mean, polyester, vinylester and epoxy resins, glass including the new "Basalt" glass alternative.
    Either product is very easy to apply. When mixed (1:1 by weight or volume, so you will need cheap kitchen scales or just a graduated cup), it is very thin and brushes on easily. Always try to do 3 coats. The 1st coat gets sucked in, the second not so much and the 3rd not at all but at least you know no water will get in and it leaves a nice varnish like finish. But do not leave it in direct sun light, as there are no UV inhibitors.

  4. #49
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    I played in the boat for a bit today, but didn't really accomplish much except finish extending the stringers to the transom and glassing them all in place.
    IMG_1260.jpg

    Also, I came across a new type of fiberglass. It's like carbon fibre, but it's actually made from the igneous rock Basalt.
    It is supposedly applied exactly as you would fiberglass, but it is significantly stronger than glass fibres and getting close to carbon, but half the price of carbon.
    I bought a few metres to apply to the cockpit floor to see what it will look like, but I'm not going the full hog using epoxy resin for absolute clarity. I'll use the poly and see how it goes.
    Even if it doesn't look flashy, it is immensely stronger than S glass and worth having a play with.

    'Ol mate Cyril turned up and we took measurements for a new fuel tank. We came up with an acceptable size that will carry 250 litres. He assures me that the 2012 250 EFI Merc will be "relatively" economical...

    What I did get caught up on, was improving the original Bertram/Haines deck design, and modifying the cockpit comings and deleting the side decks, as I did on my old Mustang 24.
    It completely changed the character of the cockpit and made it appear and feel much more modern.

    Here's a photographic progression of what I have in mind for the little Haines:

    Early days in the Mustang rebuild. The cockpit was quite long, but very narrow.
    37.jpg

    I got the idea to get rid of the side decks in the cockpit area. They serve no purpose (except maybe to mount rod holders, but there's ways around that), and i remembered an old HH 635L I had years ago where they did just that from factory.

    So I cut the side decks off;
    94.jpg

    ground everything up and re-attached for a glassing job;
    100 (2).jpg

    Glassed it all together:
    103.jpg

    Faired and painted:
    048 (2).jpg

    It's not really that much work and I think it will make the cockpit a lot more user friendly...

    I've already got rid of the WW2 "buoyancy' tanks at the chines which wasted a ton of floor space, raised the floor 75mm giving a flat floor to the chines and doubling fuel capacity, and I'm about to add a hull extension and a new drivers instrument console, not to mention a large computer controlled outboard and hydraulic steering, so paying homage to an old classic is not really high on the agenda....

    Maybe I will do it...

    Down side - a LOT of grinding...

    Maybe I wont...

    See what tomorrow brings.

  5. #50
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    I tried the new basalt glass today and it is really easy to use. Wets out very quickly and the peel ply wets out easily too.
    It does go quite dark with the poly resin. It would look 100 times better with clear epoxy, but that wasn't my intention to have it looking whiz-bang, but rather to test it with poly.
    Tomorrow, I'll try using it to glass in the main bulkhead.

    Here's the tank compartment lid. I tried 2 different types of peel ply and no peel ply to see what the finish would be like::
    IMG_1264.jpg

    When it had gone off sufficiently, I trimmed off the excess with a sharp blade knife and it was much easier than stripping fiberglass excess..
    I can't recall the actual weight of the Basalt Glass, but it is the strength equivalent of 600gsm, so it should be beaut for tabbing...

    Here it is in place:
    IMG_1266.jpg

    You will notice that I have reinstated the port side bulkhead. The new dash configuration alleviates the need to get rid of the hatch, so I'll go the full bulkhead. At this point...

    I also had a play with the berths, and they should get glassed in soon. I've worked out the method, but I want to try the Basalt glass 1st...

    Haven't changed my mind yet about widening the cockpit. That actually goes hand in hand with NOT putting on a pod or hull extension, and just hanging the O/B off the transom, albeit with a 6" jacking plate to facilitate easy engine height experimentation. It should really be one or the other. Either pod or widen cockpit.
    Everyone is doing pods, but I'm not 100% convinced that they are worth it. I'm no naval architect, so I don't really see the point, unless one actually wants a 750mm longer cockpit.
    I did one on the Mustang, but it was only 300mm long and didn't take up any cockpit space...
    I reckon the space loss on the little 19C can be a lot less than 750mm, which is the nominal length of an outboard well.
    1st, utilise a 6" (150mm) jack plate. Now down to 600mm.
    Next, cut into the aft deck (it was a S/D boat) which gives another 300mm.
    Then, have a removeable or flip up/down flap so the powerhead can encroach into the cockpit when fully tilted for trailering.
    The flap would be upholstered and when up, it will form part of the fold down seat backrest.
    Well, that's the idea.

    A LOT less work, no real loss of cockpit space, and the effort could be diverted to widening the cockpit, which will pay dividends in that - it's different, the boat will look and feel more modern and the hull will work as it was designed to.

    Like I said, short of engaging a naval architect to draw up a pod/hull extension, I'm reticent to believe that the extension is actually good for anything except gaining cockpit space...

    More soon.

  6. #51
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Another COVID boat building day.

    Put in a few hours, but don't seem to have achieved much...

    I decided that I need to finish something, so the cabin got the nod.
    Epoxy glued in the bulkheads permanently, and gave all the lockers a good grind, clean, acetone wipe down and a hit of flow coat:
    IMG_1267.jpg

    That dried pretty quickly, so I epoxy glued the berth tops down and temporarily screwed them off in strategic positions.
    I couldn't glass in the berths, as there was too much uncured epoxy about, so that will have to wait until tomorrow.

    I was looking for something easy to do, so I decided to make the mold for the new dashboard:
    IMG_1268.jpg

    It's shape had to change a little, to give clearance for the hatch and, as everyone suggested, made all other dimensions a little larger.
    With a bit of luck, I may be able to get a moulding out of it tomorrow, if I don't get too caught up glassing the berths and bulkhead in.

    I'm still liking the idea of widening the cockpit...
    Last edited by giddyup58; 31-03-2021 at 06:32 PM. Reason: picture missing

  7. #52

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Not a huge fan of skinny side decks, rod holders will be very difficult to fit, if at all.

  8. #53

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Noelm View Post
    Not a huge fan of skinny side decks, rod holders will be very difficult to fit, if at all.
    A bit unconventional on a trailer boat but how about Railblaza StarPort HD bases with Rod Holder II mounts?

    Thinking about trying them on mine along the sides of the cockpit as the existing rod holders are just pointed straight out the back and there's not room to swing them around. They're rated to 100kg-f in shear (failed at 300kg-f in test) and 30kg-f in tension. I've seen them used for trolling mack tuna and the like on kayaks and skiffs - they hold up just fine for that.

  9. #54
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    The freeboard is a bit low with the raised floor, so the idea is to run cockpit rails, onto which rod holders can be incorporated...

  10. #55

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Not a huge fan of rod holders on rails either, but all of these things are personal, I just had a bad experience when a friend bought a Chinese made boat and the silly skinny side decks made it a major job fitting anything, even just sitting on the side (that you do often while fishing) is/was near impossible unless you were some kind of circus performer, of course rails make sitting on the side out of the question anyway.

  11. #56
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    I got the cabin bunk tops and bulkhead glassed in today:

    IMG_1272.jpg IMG_1273.jpg IMG_1274.jpg

    I then fine tuned the console/dash, added brackets to hold it all together, got it off the boat and prepped it for glassing:
    IMG_1269.jpg

    Glassed it up, added strengthening where necessary and trimmed it off when mostly cured:
    IMG_1275.jpg

    That should be right to pop out of the mold tomorrow and see if it fits!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #57

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Looks like a terrific job to me.

  13. #58

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hey Giddyup,

    Interested to hear how much extra weight you estimate the boat will have in it once you are done compared to original? I don't suppose you had It weighed prior to the project starting?
    Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.

  14. #59

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I can't imagine it would be too much heavier, you have just replaced what was there, even though it's bigger and better than it was.

  15. #60
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Regarding weight, I doubt it will weigh much extra.
    I've used high quality knitted fabrics instead of ham fisted, hung over, chopper gunned overly thick rubbish glass.
    And Noel is right, I've not added anything extra. Yet.

    I couldn't help myself this morning and quickly stripped the dash molding and temporarily fitted it.

    Pretty happy with that!
    IMG_1276.jpg

    Now that I know I haven't wasted my time, I'll glass and fair it in so it will look like it was supposed to be there from the outset.

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