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Thread: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

  1. #16

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Thanks, that's brilliant. Much appreciated.

    Any reason not to do 225 CSM then 450 DB on the underside? It should significantly strengthen and stiffen the floor at minimal expense and a couple of kilos.

    I don't need to pull the whole floor up so had been thinking about leaving a 75mm wide strip of floor around the perimeter then screwing + glassing a ledge under that to sit the new floor on and level it up with the retained sections before doing 225 CSM + 2x 450 DB over the whole floor and extending up to the side pockets. Valid approach or best to take it out all the way to the edge?

  2. #17
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Unless yo go to a lot of trouble to rot proof the existing timber and the new cleats, you're looking for trouble.
    Get rid of all the old floor.
    450DB on the underside is a complete waste. A resin coat is all the original builders (and often, not even that - on Masonite!) and those boats lasted decades.
    The spans between stringers is close enough that you don't need to add extra glass underneath for stiffness.
    A !/2" (12mm) ply sole is probably enough on its own. The glassing underneath seals out the moisture, the glassing above makes it waterproof, bonds the edges to the hull and makes the sole harder wearing.
    Also, when you replace the whole floor, you can honestly say that the floor has been replaced, when it comes time to sell.
    It's just good practise and is probably easier than what you are suggesting.

  3. #18

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Understood, thanks for the advice

  4. #19
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.
    Bit of an update.
    The repair work I have seen in this boat was some of the shoddies, least professional I have ever seen. Just getting the hull to a point where I can move forward has been ... painful.

    1st - go and get the ply. Here's 2 sheets 18mm and 4 sheets 12mm.

    IMG_1147.jpg

    I then set up a shelter to keep the sun off. The old bimini bows from the V146R worked a treat, and there's just 4 holes to repair later. The cover is one I bought for the 146 but which discoloured the gunwale rubber, so I repurposed it here:
    IMG_1144.jpg

    Next, strip the transom and glue in (epoxy) and glass in the new marine ply 36mm transom:
    IMG_1152.jpg

    Then I had to pull the hook out of the back of the hull. I fitted a bulkhead 2440mm back from the cabin bulkhead, which was in exactly the right spot to push out the hook at the back:
    IMG_1175.jpg
    This let me run full size stringers from a sheet without having to scarf.
    The method was to glass the bulkhead in, at the keel area only, which let me wedge under the bulkhead to force the hull down.
    I then cut the wedges off flush and glassed it in fully, 225 choppy/450DB.

    Then I prepared the outer chine and 1st stringer area:
    IMG_1172.jpg
    Big session with chisel and lump hammer followed by grinder.
    Then hosed it all out:
    IMG_1174.jpg

    This allowed me to get the outer stringers in place but the hull was so bent out of shape, I had to get rid of the 2 outer sets of stringers to release all the tension, and to prop up under the boat to get the shape right:
    IMG_1178.jpg IMG_1179.jpg IMG_1182.jpg

    A bit more stripping and grinding and the outer chines have been glassed in.:
    IMG_1177.jpg
    I'm pretty happy with the flats - hardly any hook from keel to chine over the aft 3m. What little there is can be bogged up later. Maybe 2mm or less.

    That leaves me about to scribe in the 2nd set (shown above), and ensure that they pull the boat straight before glassing.

    It takes a lot of time to get it right, but as previously stated, no point doing all this work to build a boat that is wrong.

    During all of the above, ol' mate Cyril and I fitted the new starter motor and did the compression test. Good news - no dud cylinders


    Next job for the motor is to drop the gearbox and inspect the water tube (common problem with that model) and replace the water pump, and remove the powerhead and replace the bottom seal.
    While it's all apart, I'll give the leg, bottom pan and the gearbox a fresh coat of phantom black.

    Tomorrow, hopefully, I can have a run at the the 2nd set of stringers.

    I've already fabricated the 3rd set, so it would be nice to get those in pretty soon, followed by the keel.
    After that, stand the cabin bulkhead, rebuild the bunks and possibly increase the depth of the anchor locker to accommodate a Lone Star drum winch.

    Then it's down the back to finish the stringers to the transom, then I suppose give some consideration to fitting a floor.

    I'll let you know what happens...
    Last edited by giddyup58; 14-02-2021 at 06:42 AM. Reason: picture missing

  5. #20

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hey Giddy im assuming your and older gentleman how do u find pounding out the hours out in the heat in summer? I find it brutal, 1 hour 30mins work in the sun and im cooked sweat dripping from my clothes with a really bad migrain

    Is there a reason u do the work outside and not inside your garage and have a controlled climate going?

    I would have killed for some sort of garage with a air conditioner, i roughed it out so many times 35c+ resin smoking, winter 10c resin thick like whipped cream its punnishing work

  6. #21
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    It's not too bad with the bimini Gazza, and the houses put me in full shade except for 3 hours per day. But being 62 presents it's own difficulties. Climbing in and out of the boat, lying under it getting the hull straight and preparing for paint - that really takes it's toll these days. But I love the creative process and actually making the boat look as I've imagined it is a big thrill.
    Of course, the biggest thrill is that 1st outing. The boat is finished and looks beautiful, and when you nail the throttle, she pops onto the plane and then exceeds your expectations - that's the magic.
    And the reason to do it all over again.

  7. #22
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi again.

    Had a bit of a play yesterday. Started out by glassing in 2nd stringers and ended up removing sheets of not well bonded glass and grinding for about 3 hours. Full suit, full face respirator, gloves and ear muffs kept me comfortable enough, but I spent more than a couple of hours today hosing down...everything!.
    That's now about 2/3 of the structural grinding done. Next will be the cockpit keel followed by the cabin interior stringers, keel and structure, followed by the flowcoat grind.

    Both middle stringers glassed in (one side only) and centre stringers and very dodgy glass-work removed:
    IMG_1189.jpg

    Here's an example of the crappy prior attempt at repair:
    IMG_1188.jpg
    The right side of the photo shows the originally constructed area - green resin.
    The left side is what I left after cutting out the stringer. I was in the process of removing the brown glass mess when I took the photo.
    What the repairers did, was to cut the stringer flush, leave the rotten timber there, glass over it, then fit the new stringers without properly preparing the existing area for glassing.
    The previous photo shows that I could cut the "repair glass work"just deep enough to hit the original green laminate, the chisel up an edge and get the breaker bar in and remove it in sheets with little effort.

    If you squint a little, in the top left 1/4 of the photo, you will notice a cut flush wedge under the stringer. A combination of pushing up the hull from underneath and wedging from the top allows you to get the hull very fair. Without doing this pushing and pulling, the hull would have dips and hollows all over it and only be good for the tip...

    Rant:
    That's why I cannot understand why so many guys having a go at this work, completely strip out the stringers and bulkheads and then start fitting replacement parts with no thought to keeping the shape of the hull. It just beggars logic. You do not have to be a trained boat builder to recognise that the shape of the boat is held together by the stringers and bulkheads. Removing them leaves just a flimsy skin. Bodyweight alone will significantly alter the shape of the hull during the reglassing of stringers etc process. And then they rabbit on that they have the best rebuilt boat in the world because they've used 3x more glass than necessary and discarded marine ply in favour of $450 per sheet Coota Board. The boat is completely stuffed. It's not factory straight, it's terribly overweight and stupidly expensive.
    End Rant...

    All ground out and centre stringers rough cut and situated pending scribing and fitting:
    IMG_1190.jpg

    The reason I have only glassed in 1 side of the stringers, is because it is very difficult to get the hull to its proper shape in one try, so glassing the one side expedites it removal, readjustment and reglassing.
    I chose to glass the "uphill" side of the chine, so if it rains, water will not seep up under the marine ply stringer

    Unfortunately I now see that I will have to release and readjust the port side outer stringer, as I didn't get it quite right and there is a nasty twist in the chine, which was not apparent until I had glassed in the 2nd stringer.
    Yes, it is a total pain in the butt, but as I keep saying, not much point in putting in all that work to build a crooked hull.
    Also, the 250hp engine will not be happy with anything other than a fair hull. Remember, I had a 225 on my V19 centre console, which was slower than a wet week because the hull was not fair.

    But we'll get it right...

    I'm a bit concerned about having raised the floor 4" (100mm). I think by the time a bimini is fitted, the boat is going to look top heavy and not balanced.
    BUT - the extra space under the floor gives the opportunity to fit a decent sized fuel tank, kill and live bait tanks and a general storage area, as well as a couple full length foam filled flotation chambers.
    Still, I have a couple more weeks until I need a final decision, and I'm sure I'll change my mind 15 more times.
    And it's easy enough to cut the stringers down before the floor goes in permanently.

  8. #23

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I applaud this level of commitment to doing it right.Looking forward to seeing it come together.

    Confirming that you used epoxy to glue in the transom on the joining faces only and your using poly/vinyl for the actual glassing?

  9. #24
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Correct.
    The ply laminates are epoxied together, and both are epoxied to the outer skin. After screwing in repeatedly (or clamping etc), wipe off all excess epoxy and wash down with acetone, so there is only the slightest epoxy glue line. Then Polyester/Vinylester the inside skin. I use 2 layers of 225chop & 450/600DB 100mm all round larger than the transom onto the hull and then 2 more of the same 200mm wide 50/50 transom/hull

  10. #25

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    hi there
    what are you doing with the old trim tabs i am chasing a couple of rams like them if you want to sell

    cheers snap 0413103021

  11. #26

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Nice job there giddyup its nice to see someone useing a bit of epoxy, but the just talking polyester makes me itchy .

  12. #27
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by chris69 View Post
    Nice job there giddyup its nice to see someone using a bit of epoxy, but just talking polyester makes me itchy .
    Trust me Chris, epoxy itches just a badly...

  13. #28
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    Couldn't do too much over the past few days due to the rain, but I did get the port side outer stringer released and fixed the hogged spray chine.
    I'm perplexed as to why I glassed it in in the 1st place. It wasn't even close to right. Must have been an old boy brain fade...
    To get it undone (thankfully, I had only glassed one side of the stringer), I bought a 9" carbide blade for the sabre saw. Worked a treat, but I was careful as that was a $30 blade...

    Next step ws to scribe and fit the 2 inner stringers. They have both been faired to the inside of the hull, set up plumb and equidistant to the centre line.
    IMG_1191.jpg

    I have faired the tops of the stringers so I can place a board across the boat to spread my weight. That way, I shouldn't cause any distortion to the hull when I glass them in .

    I was careful to keep the centre stringers absolutely parallel and plumb, so there should be no problem later fitting a fuel tank.

    Regarding fiberglass, my favourite glass is mat backed DB ie. 225 choppy backed 450 or 600 Double Bias. I ordered 30 meters from Townsville (none in Brisbane!), and a week later they rang to say the don't have any left and can't fulfill the order. That makes glassing in stringers a painful job, as the choppy and DB must be laid individually. Small runs upto a meter are easy enough - they can be resin coated off the boat and the DB holds the choppy together. I tried to do the 2.4m stringer glass in one go off the boat, but that was an epic fail. But, it will happen, just a bit slower than I'd like.

    Hopefully, no rain for a bit so I can get those pesky stringers fully glassed,and then I won't have to get in and out of the boat 30 times per hour straightening the hull.

    More soon, hopefully...

  14. #29

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi Giddyup

    I am just reading through your thread, quite an undertaking you have taken on there.

    A question, what are the cleats mentioned a few posts back? I have visions of a stainless attachment, screwed into the gunwales, to facilitate tying your boat up to the pontoon or jetty.

  15. #30
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Bremic View Post
    Hi Giddyup


    A question, what are the cleats mentioned a few posts back?
    Cleats can also be small pieces of timber intended to facilitate attachment. In this instance, a cleat would have to be (say) 50mm wide, attached 25mm under the remnants of the floor, leaving a "land" of 25mm to carry the new floor. Ideally, the cleat would be epoxied to both and possibly even fastened with s/s screws. Lots of work, lots of things to go wrong and opportunity for premature rot (screws).

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