Replace manual bilge pump with electric.

[Brettoh]

Hi all,
I have I have a manual diaphragm hand pump on each side of my sailfish cat transom to dewater anything that get into the hull. I also have a couple of automatic electric powered pumps in the bilge that are älive "whenever the batteries are switched on.

I have fitted bait boxes to the boat on the transom and can no longer get to the manual pump.
It appears there is a spear(tube ) that extends to a low point within the hull to draw water up to the pump and then out to the ocean. The diaphragm pumps have a pretty good suction on them and are self priming.

Im wanting to have a second operating pump for each side of the cat hull and considering replacing the manual diaphragm pump with another electric one.
Most of the bilge pumps I see are submersible. Ideally I want to use the existing pump mounting position and spear in the transom and connect it to a pump that has the capacity to lift the water up like the existing manual pump does.

Anyone have any ideas? The local boat guy says its a little tough to find such a thing citing everything is submersible.

cheers
I

[Alchemy]

Something like this perhaps.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/jabsco...ter-puppy-2000

[ranmar850]

Alchemy is on the money with his recomendation. You will need a self-priming pump with a soft impeller. In larger vessels with inboard motor(s), they would be belt or perhaps PTO driven. Typically used for tasks like deck washdown, valved with the ability to be used as a bilge pump, with a low fixed pickup like the one you describe in your current hull. The Water Puppy is just a 12v motor driven version of the same. It could be rigged, via a float switch and relay , to be used for auto bilge pump duties, but I'm guessing you would keep it manual .

[Brettoh]

Thanks Alchemy. They look good.
Yes Ranmar. Im looking for a second set of pumps incase the submersible ones fail. , again
Ive had 2 automatic rule pumps fail in 12 months.

cheers

[ranmar850]

Are you using the integrated switch type, like this? https://www.outbackequipment.com.au/...oaAspeEALw_wcB Or the separate float switch? I've seen a lot of comments on the Automatic type failing prematurely, and sometimes overheating, and I put it down to this one thing. The old float type just sat there, waiting for enough water to operate the switch and power the pump. Simple, but you need the space to instal them. The Automatic type works on a different principle--they actually turn on at regular preset intervals, and look for water flow. Including when you are out of the water on the trailer. So they are, in effect always on, and running dry when they do a water check. My original 1100GPH Automatic ran for four years, because I turned it off at the panel when the boat came out of the water. In fact, it's probably still good--it stopped working at four years, and I just assumed it was stuffed, fitted a new one, powered up, and the new one didn't work either. Found a wire off at the back of the panel . Just something to think about.

I would have happily fitted a separate switch as pump, as we used on the big boats, but there is stuff-all space between the back of the tank and the transom on a Reefrunner,

[chris69]

If a wave went through the wheel house and took out your electrics that's when a manual bilge pump comes into its own,that's why they put them on boats,id run both systems.

[GBC]

The boat will have been built to survey. If your boat is in survey you’ll need the gusher pumps to be operational. If you already have serviceable bilge pumps perhaps a bilge alarm rather than another set of electric pumps might help, and rig the bait boxes so you can throw them over the side and still use the gushers if shit hits the fan.

[Brettoh]

The boat will have been built to survey. If your boat is in survey you’ll need the gusher pumps to be operational. If you already have serviceable bilge pumps perhaps a bilge alarm rather than another set of electric pumps might help, and rig the bait boxes so you can throw them over the side and still use the gushers if shit hits the fan.

Boat is not in survey. I see the value of manual pumps but rigging the baitboxes to jettison off the boat is not going to happen.
I have an idea for a different type of manual pump that is more accessible. But forst I just want to double up on the electrics.

Appreciate the idea though. Thanks

[Brettoh]

Are you using the integrated switch type, like this? https://www.outbackequipment.com.au/...oaAspeEALw_wcB Or the separate float switch? I've seen a lot of comments on the Automatic type failing prematurely, and sometimes overheating, and I put it down to this one thing. The old float type just sat there, waiting for enough water to operate the switch and power the pump. Simple, but you need the space to instal them. The Automatic type works on a different principle--they actually turn on at regular preset intervals, and look for water flow. Including when you are out of the water on the trailer. So they are, in effect always on, and running dry when they do a water check. My original 1100GPH Automatic ran for four years, because I turned it off at the panel when the boat came out of the water. In fact, it's probably still good--it stopped working at four years, and I just assumed it was stuffed, fitted a new one, powered up, and the new one didn't work either. Found a wire off at the back of the panel . Just something to think about.

I would have happily fitted a separate switch as pump, as we used on the big boats, but there is stuff-all space between the back of the tank and the transom on a Reefrunner,

Yes the auto pumps I speak of are the type that turn on every few minutes looking for something to pump. They are wired directly to the engine start battery for that side through the isolator so when the isolator is off the pumps are off. I turn them off when the boat is on the trailer.

One of the Rule pumps just stopped and the other auto function failed. They are being replaced under warranty but to add some redundancy to the system I want another set of pumps.
They will have a separate switch.


Thanks for the advice and info