Thanks for the help guys
The plan is to install two small keel bunks that run right up to the 4th cross member, my deadrise is 17 degrees so i may need bunks that are around 120mm tall i have a digital degree angle finder i juat need to work out what height i will need the keel bunks andi'll grab the timber and somemore steel angle to make the mounts
I always imagined the trailer to be a drive off drive on hence the bunks
Going good Gazza. Not sure you will be driving
on/off with that setup
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Looks nice Scott
Would i be better going with this carpet?
https://savagetrailers.com.au/produc...acement-carpet
Yep. It's what they recommend for their trailer bunks so will be a suitable pile, and at $27.50 each for a 305mm strip it's as cheap as buying marine carpet from Clark Rubber and cutting it to size yourself. Plus you don't have to cut it or deal with getting a carpet roll home.
You're still going to have grief with bunk warping and sliding her on and off IMO. I guess the proof of the pudding will be in the eating, and you can always upgrade down the track. Just keep an eye on the bunks to make sure warpage doesn't damage the hull.
Thanks i'll grab that carpet, when i installed my new 2x 40mm axles i coated them with inox but they started rusting after 2 weeks, i just noticed u guys mentioning tectyl so i grabbed a can of that and its a world of difference that stuff is sticky as i used almost a full can on the two axles (no brake parts)
Found the spray at bunnings
https://ibb.co/QDVw6BG
Tectyl is great if you don't mind the colour. You can buy a 4L can for about $65 from automotive stores which is around 1/3 the price. Not quite as convenient as the spraycans but a fair whack more cost effective.
Yeah the tectyl sprayed on really thick which is what i wanted over painting the axles 3 times a year
I just measured up for a couple keel bunks it measured out i need 2x 100mm tall bunks placed down the centre with a gap between the two will be 275mm gap @ 100mm tall works out at 17 degrees to suit my hull
Now the sleepers have been outside sitting on the trailer upright they havent warped yet and im hopping they don't
Now to find some proper timber for the keel support in 100x50mm
Got my draw bar mounted using 2 U bolts i finished off my brake line filled her up and the nut on the back of the coupling just leaks brake fluid between the nut and the brake line
If i were to use the bigger longer nut it has a bigger inner size hose/hole does this still work with 6mm brake lines?
It appears there may be 6mm and 8mm brake lines i may be wrong tho
(Front portion of brake hose needs to be bolted down, front U bolt not bolted down yet)
I see that the nut looks like it has bottomed out and possibly not clamping the flair tight enough?
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Yeah thats exactly whats happening, there is a longer nut i can install but the hole thru the nut is around 8mm diameter my brake pipe is 6mm do u think its a case of wrong nut or wrong nut and hose?im not big on hydraulics i have done quiet a few car brakes but first time working on a trailer brake system and building one from scratch at that
Car brakes and trailer brakes are the same thing (kind of) it does look like there is something wrong with that pipe and nut.
What is the purpose of the long central piece of RHS as it doesn't look like anything is actually bolted to it?