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Thread: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

  1. #241
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Going to start the next project shortly and need to start gathering the materials. After some information supplied by ranmar850 I have been researching into the refrigeration unit I will need. I am going with 75mm thick foam which gives me 200l capacity and a BD-50 compressor. 50mm would do the job but the compressor would be working hard on hot days and may be a little slow pulling down fish I think.
    I've definitely come to the conclusion that my home-made camping freezer is light on the insulation side. It is 75mm top, bottom and one side, and 50mm other three sides. Bear in mind I am using it as a freezer, not a fridge, but , since fitting a proper digital thermostat, I can monitor actual temps real time, and the rise back up 2 degrees when the ambients are up is shockingly quick. Literally 5 minutes to go from , say, -14 to -12--differential is set to 2 degrees by default, so, if you want the unit to run down to -14, you will have the compressor kick in back at -12. This was at ambients over 25. Big difference when the ambients are right down, say mid-teens on a cold night. So insulation is the culprit. If daytime ambients are low, say low 20's, you can set it for -16. Wasting your time if the ambients are getting high twenties or over, it will just run full time. Cold nights, you can get -20.

  2. #242

    Cool Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Well got the dash polished up and another job out of the road. Was going to start the conversion of the helm area into a fridge/freezer next but have decided to complete anything that causes dust or glassing inside the boat. Next will be completing the deck and modification to the fuel tank so I can start closing it up and get the engine installed to start sorting out cable runs and locations of equipment. Can do the helm outside of the boat and just lift it in completed.

    Anyway a couple of photos of the dash, will start cutting a few hole out for the electronics that I know will be going in and also have the carpet on top and sides to install once I can find a suitable flex trim to finish off the edge of the carpet.

    IMG_20210709_080823.jpgIMG_20210709_075637.jpg

    Not to far from my rum night design
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  3. #243
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    In the Jungle/Mission Beach Hinterland

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Well done..The level of finish you are putting into your glass work is quite amazing to see..

    Cant wait to see the old girl when she's finally all done..

  4. #244

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Looking very good.
    Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.

  5. #245

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Started the process of cutting out the penetrations for the equipment. Spent the best part of the day marking out and moving stuff around the dash to get things to fit.

    Finally decided on what equipment to install and basically what I was looking at all along. Going with 2 x Simrad evo 3s 9", Simrad auto pilot and the 3G radar that I have already and ICOM VHF. I have stuffed around looking at different set ups and keep coming back to the same conclusion. Had mostly Lowrance equipment so don't need to go through the learning again as the EVO's are pretty much the same as the HDS units with a few added extras. Transducers will be the next headache. You can see the dash is filling up quickly with still more to install. Had plenty of room before I had to install the cavity for the controls. Everything will still fit but not in the locations I had planned but that's life. I am being quite anal with the wiring set up and equipment as I want it secure and tidy and easy to maintain which was a very big pain in the ass the way it was originally and can fully understand why pervious owners didn't do much and then some people just don't care I suppose. Anyway rant over.

    Switch panel I am thinking of getting made up by New Wire in the states and get the switch face plates made by another mob that custom make what ever you want. I don't want fuses on the switch panel and need 16 switches. Couldn't seem to find anyone in AUS that makes the panels up but if anyone knows of one please let me know.

    So got the carpet trim completed on top of dash and glassed in supports on the side for main cable run and mounting for the auto steering pump and do have enough room to install the auto trim modules so that worked out good. Cut and modified the side trim with a removable panel to access the steering pump and also made a panel up to re position the controls up higher.

    Finished off the brackets down at the stern and just starting modifications to the stern trims so not far from finishing the glass work inside thank God. Will give everything a good sand and clean up including the deck and throw a couple of flowcoats over the lot. Just wish I could find some more time but work gets in the way.

    A couple of photos and will get some more once I clean the boat up again as it's a shit tip again and still need to cut a few more holes yet. I am over fiberglass dust.
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  6. #246
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    I used New Wire marine for my panel, very happy with results and price, particularly as it had to come out of the US. I couldn't find anyone locally that was doing that sort of thing, either. I'm sure they are out there, and probably don't need to advertise, do all their work for the high end boat builders, no doubt.

  7. #247

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by ranmar850 View Post
    I used New Wire marine for my panel, very happy with results and price, particularly as it had to come out of the US. I couldn't find anyone locally that was doing that sort of thing, either. I'm sure they are out there, and probably don't need to advertise, do all their work for the high end boat builders, no doubt.
    There is a couple of places I found on site in Aus but don't seem to make the panel face. I am after the carbon fiber look to match other equipment. One place does do custom etching for the switch faces and are a good price. I have been thinking of just ordering the face plate from New Wire and getting the switches here and the switch faces as they are the same price from what I have found. Just need to make sure the switches are right to fit in to the face plate. Also doing the wiring myself so really just after the hardware. Toyed around with making the face plate but don't think you could make it neat enough unless you have the right tooling.

  8. #248

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Quote Originally Posted by ranmar850 View Post
    I used New Wire marine for my panel, very happy with results and price, particularly as it had to come out of the US. I couldn't find anyone locally that was doing that sort of thing, either. I'm sure they are out there, and probably don't need to advertise, do all their work for the high end boat builders, no doubt.
    ranmar I forgot to ask what size panel did you get ? Do you have a photo ?. I am looking at a 16 gang and the size of the panel is 10" x 5 1/2" when I used the build your own on their web site. It seem rather large !!!

  9. #249
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel







    Here you go. If you go rocker switches, you certainly start taking up space. I bought switches from them as well, wired it in myself. They ended up in a different order to the pic above, tried to group things and have the most commonly used right at the top, and the wiper switch at the very bottom where I didn't have to look for it banging along in a sea. Not a fan of doubling up on functions for switches and like to have everything switched--House supply to Fuse panel, then fused supply to switch, load connected direct to switch.

  10. #250

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Thanks mate. It would seem by the photo the panel size does need to be 10 x 5 1/2. I am going with the back light type as do allot of night time work. I have to ask what the LOW BEER ALARM is ?

    I also agree with having the main supply to the fuse panel and is what I am going to do. I want all the fuses in one easy to get too location and when I pulled the old wiring out of this boat there was inline fuses hidden in conduits and some circuits had three fuses in them. You do see some funny things people do and get away with. Not sure how there wasn't a fire with some of the dodgy crap I came across.

  11. #251
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    I likd the "deploy gatling gun" more. initially, I thought I had two spare spaces, ordered the panel ,then had none. So instead of boring Spare, I ordered those two. They are now my two MFD's.

  12. #252

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    ive made a few panels......


    here is one of more recent Carbon fibre backlit ones for the 1.5million dollar C50 motoryachts

    Marine outfitting solutions
    www.moosemarine.com.au

  13. #253

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    Nice. My boat is around that price now. Now stop showing off.

    In all seriousness I need to fill a few holes in the dash Moose. I will be in contact

  14. #254

    Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    thought of your boat recently mate. we just added this interesting addition to a clients 700...


    the original 700 dash does not make it easy for big electrioncs.. chucked a 12" just off to the side for good measure


    Marine outfitting solutions
    www.moosemarine.com.au

  15. #255

    Cool Re: Re-power Cruisemaster 700 with diesel

    A few photos of the work in progress but is a little hard to see.

    Got a start on installing some of the equipment laying around and placed the side trims and helm seat back in position for a final check and measure for the built in fridge set up. Still have a few holes to put in the dash for stereo, auto bilge pump, high water alarm, engine blower control and a couple of 12v power outlets plus fuel gauge and a couple of warning lights. Just have enough room to fit all in but made it. I have a space available for installing modules under the top of the dash upside down which I don't think will be a issue ?. Also space for coiling up excess wiring which is always a issue out of the road and out of sight. You always end up with a clump of cable that you have to deal with, also have made provision behind the side panel as mentioned.

    I am trying to keep everything networked where possible with the engine controls and trim tabs separate as they speak a different language to NMEA 2000. I can get a module for the motor to speak to the NMEA but the price was more than the cost of the Steyr module. Plus having it displayed on the MFD's would take away screen space and rather have the engine information right at hand anyway. The Steyr module gives much more information then going the other way as well.

    I have been researching for some time all the other equipment such as onboard battery charging/inverter and indeed batteries. Decided to go with Victron equipment and build two 200amp LIFEPO batteries for the house bank and the crank will be lead acid. The Victron gear seems pretty good and the only issue was their DC/DC charger will only do 30amps but you can add another in line to give 60amps if required so I will leave some space in case I need the extra charging but will do a couple of trips first and see how it goes. Installing their solar controller also and everything will be connected to their GX hub which also connects to the MFD's so all the information can be displayed on the screen or through your phone/tablet. Going with the Multi Plus inverter/charger 2000 watt and a separate charger for the crank battery so I can just leave on when sitting. Adding galvanic protection onto the shore power for when birthed at the marina (not sure if that will stop the S/S prop eating the drive off ).

    Going with a 3" engine blower thermostat controlled which Steyr said I wouldn't require but going in anyway and that will be situated right next to the turbo and won't hurt to keep the area cooler with batteries and half a ton of other crap. Going to be busy down at the stern and the reason I have installed multiple brackets and sealed off areas from water to accommodate all this shit I am installing. Anyway certainly will be interesting wiring job Scottar .
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