Is 40lb-50lb braid to big for 5000 size reel?

[trout head]

Why a 50 turn ,

[Scott79]

As others have suggested, I reckon knot failure may be the potential cause.

Which braid and what rod are you using?

Scott.

[Astro]

Im using Power Pro 30lb and a Shimano Mexican Raider II 10kg

[Scott79]

Just had a look at "Paulus's" web site where he tests actual breaking strains of line samples, there was a test on 30p Power Pro and it came in pretty close to the mark, 31pound. Not sure if one sample alone is enough to draw conclusions from, but typically braid breaking strains are 'underestimated' somewhat, as you probably already know.

The above said, I doubt that you would be able to break anywhere near 30 pound 'through the rod' with a 10kg rated rod (is it a 5-10 kg version?) without destroying the rod.

I suspect that, as others have already eluded to, that the line class and drag setting is not the issue, and the knot is by far the weakest link. Moving forward, I would experiment with a few knots at home, tie a few and glove up well and see if you any break by hand. Using scales will give you a better handle on the percentage strength lost in the process.

To answer your original question, I think that your reel will probably handle 40 or 50 pound OK, mainly because there will be weaker points along the way - knot strength and the rod... At least by going up in breaking strain you should get better knot strength.

For me personally, I use the double uni for lighter lure fishing (over the albright) and when bottom fishing I use a modified version of the Palomar knot to a swivel.

Interested to hear how you go mate.
Scott.

[Moffy]

close to the reef, I would get a few solid turns and the fish would turn and make a strong run

a better knot won't change a thing if you can't stop them from getting to the reef.

Sounds more like you were getting done on the reef rather than knot failure.

More drag or go up in line class/heavier gear.

If you are using a decent quality reel (and that doesn't mean it has to be a stella or saltiga - though i'd love a couple....) its more about what the rod can handle than what the reel can handle and if the reel doesn't have the drag capacity you are wasting time with heavier braid anyhow.

Line capacity will keep you to a "sane" line class on a given reel.

Moffy.

[Astro]

I just opened up the reel to have a look at the washers and............................................... .....When I put the carbon washers in, i put the metal washers in the wrong way ..............I put the top one on the bottom and the bottom one on the top..........

Not sure if this was part of the reason but damn.........so stupid........drag might not have performed like it was supose to?

I guess ill try stick with the 30lb power pro and maybe try a little bit longer leader and try some better braid to leader knotts.

Also max drag on this reel is 25lb? so would you say 15lb usable drag? maybe 20lb with the carbon washers? (when they are installed correctly)

[Scott79]

Firstly, I will say that I don't know what the difference is between your metal top and bottom washers.

However, assuming there is a noticeable difference, I am not sure if the 'reversed' drag washers would have made much difference in your situation, although it might not have neccessarily helped. The reason for this assumption, it sounds like you weren't actually losing much line in the first place before something (knot or line) parted, and you probably would have felt the drag 'sticky' when setting it / testing it with your hand if drag lock up is to blame. If you were experiencing failure during long tuna/mackeral runs I might have thought it could be a contributing factor.

As I said in an earlier post I would doubt that your rod would survive breaking genuine 30 pound through it - especially more than once.
One way or another, I maintain that you are breaking well below 30 pound, whether it's due to knot failure or being rubbed on the reef.

Scott.