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Thread: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

  1. #16

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Kev, cannot thank you enough. That is a huge amount of effort and excellent information. I am sure other yakers (is that what they are called ) will also get lots of useful info from you photo's and explanations.

    I now get the anchor system. I should be able to use the carry handles connection point to connect the end bungees. I need to try to use existing points for anything that will take a load, because without access holes due to the Scrambler XT not having any access hatches, I cannot get inside the boat to add a backing plate. I was trying to work out what you do with the excess anchor line, but from what I can tell from the photo, you have it wrapped around the float, which will keep it neat. I assume you cleat or just tie it off so that it does not accidentally unravel. Great idea.

    Adding the slit to the pvc solves my problem. Thanks. I am going to experiment with using a bit of heat to mold the tube into a longer slotted section. I will add a photo if it works out.

    With the paddle, fortunately I did not buy one yet. I borrowed one from my neighbor (non fishing yaker) till I get some more cash together, so will look to get a better quality cruising paddle.

    Table tennis bat. who would have thought!

    Now that you and also LostNearBribie (I will be stealing your sounder setup Idea as I think it will work better for how and where I will be mounting my transducer) have shown yours, it would be great if others would do the same. I will ask the moderators to make this a sticky.

    Thanks again,


  2. #17

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Glad I could help.

    The biggest problem with being in a yak though is the fact that you are so quiet you get to see heaps of fish. (especially in the estuaries)

    What? This isn't a problem I hear you say?

    Well, just because you can see them don't mean you can catch them. I have found nothing more frustrating But it is all good fun trying.

    Good luck mate and I hope to see the finished product with some blood on the decks.


  3. #18

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Kev, great job on the additions to your kayak. Thanks for sharing. I might have to get me one of these down the track a bit......


  4. #19

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    thanks a lot for the info and pics time to do something with mine.

  5. #20

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Great work Kev, muchly appreciated.

    Kingfisher Painting Solutions:- Domestic and Commercial.

    For further information, contact details, quotes or advice - Click Here

  6. #21

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    just decided on getting a kayak yesterday (99% sure about it anyhow)

    and i see this....WOW....awesome kev... you the man

    thanks for starting the thread cheech

    and all the others who contributed
    cheers chris

  7. #22

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Some more ideas on something slightly different
    this is just after I got it and I have only had to change things slightly over the last year

    Sounder on Ram mount

    transducer in rear well

    Anchor trolley

    battery box

    rod holders, they were removed the first time I squeezed a 1m GT in the hatch

    Anchor light

    GPS now opposite sounder on ram mount

  8. #23

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    In my Swing I have the following mounted:

    two forward mounted Scotty 230 rod holders 1 each side.
    Between them I have a Garmin 140 sounder with the 5" b&w screen.
    One forward facing angled surface rod holder (very handy when a fish is on a big run and you need to chase)
    A hitch point smak in the middle of the cockpit for paddle and rod leashes and hitching up big fish whilst you are getting organised to lift it aboard.
    A basic seat with backrest (viking brand)
    two surface angled rod holders facing 45 degrees aft 1 each side
    two vertical rod holders for transport
    one all round light with a plug in socket ( light is well above head height to conform with regs)
    one drogue with 8 feet of 3mm rope and a carabiner to clip to a paddle cleat
    one 60cm gaff and one fish gripper and no net. Nets are more trouble than they are worth in a yak. Most smaller fish can be easily palm lifted or dragged aboard by grabbing the jig hook anf the gaf takes care of bigger keepers.
    One anchor made from a 30cm length of alloy tubing filled with led and a hole drilled through right in the middle. it has a suitable lenght of rope for the location and a carabiner to attach to one of multiple cleats on the yak. (no anchor trolley as i very very seldom need to anchor more for safety mooring near shore whilst taking a leak) nothing worst than trying to control a fore hose when the yak decides to drift off without you.
    I use a 30 can cooler bag for general fishing to keep the fish in, for offshore i use a custom fish keeper bag.
    between my thighs i have a Garmin 276 chartplotter that is very easy to read and operate there plus it is below the level of your lap so tackleboxes and fish can go straight over the top without touching it. Every snag i encounter i plot and have worked up a very extensive reef map for the areas i fish that you could not buy or imagine seeing.
    Custom made s/s trolley for moving the yak around fits neatly in the scupper holes for both moving and on the topside in the same scupper holes when on the water.

    When fitting your rear and forward rod holders you need to sit in the yak and simulate your paddle stroke areas to avoid clipping reels with the blade and flicking them out of the rod holder ( if this happens you will not usually notice it until you reach around for your rod which is not there)

    Thing I have found important:
    sounders can be set forward enough so you can just touch the buttons to turn on and tune, after that you simply watch the screen.
    GPS's need to be mounted close to you for logging points and zooming etc, why between the thighs is so good.
    limit tackle to what you need for the day, not what you can carry. Makes a big difference if you are 3km offshore and facing the wind on the return paddle.
    two lights are minimum on board, one all round light well above head height, one headlamp (eveready dolphin waterproof LED headlamp) and one standby micro light (adventure safety beacon waterproof micro clip on light weighs 10 grams including battery and lasts for about 50 hours continual use)
    try and set up the yak so opening hatches is avoided on the water cuz sure as eggs when the going gets rough and you need to open a hatch it will let a gut full of water in quickly then you have to cart that weight back home too.
    hav e two sources of drinking water on board, easy to lose one overboard without noticing so0metimes esp in the dark heading out. Happened to me once, once too often.
    limit your clothing so you are not too bulky, once you go over you need to be able to get back on board. There are amply dry clothing products on the market that are not bulky as well as warm clothing that is not bulky. I regularly hit the water in winter at about 2c and never feel cold or bulked up with clothing.
    be sun wise with your clothing selection too esp in summer it is not neccessarily cooler without a shirt than with a long sleeve shirt on. Skin cancers start yesterday and today you deal with them tomorrow.

    first aid kit is essential as well micro of course and in a sealed container under a hatch.

  9. #24

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Here is my yaks mods. Sorry I don't have how to or progress pics, only thought to take some photos of my mods after deciding to sell it.

    This is my Tarpon 160, have had it for 12mths and have slowly been modifying it.

    When I first got the yak I had a few issues with lines tangling in the split rings that held the steering cables and rudder pivot post in place. So they have been replaced with bolts on the cables and a split pin on the post.

    I also wanted to improve the turning ability so made up a new, larger rudder from 3mm flat aluminium.

    Then there is the usual sounder install and a couple of bungy loops to hold the GPS and landing net. I also installed an anchor trolley. Originally I had separate front and rear trolleys using the track mounts but found occasionally I wanted to swing the boat 180deg while fishing the flats so replaced the separate ones with a single full length trolley.

    I also found the buckles for adjusting the thigh support on the seat would dig into my legs when dangling them overboard, so I made the support work with a single buckle located under the seat. The backrest buckles have also been shortened to sit below the gunnel line as well. I am a bit disappointed with how the seat has faded, even though it has been stored under cover, in an open front shed, but that is fairly typical of some American materials.

    Next up was the live well, which is fairly simple. Itís a 25L Ice Kool ice box with a bilge pump to fill it and an overflow so I donít have to bail it when I want to refresh the water. The pump is on a swing-away mount to avoid extra drag when moving between spots. Power to the pump is supplied by the sounder battery, via a connection behind the seat and a switch in the centre hatch.

    For days when I donít need the livewell and want to bring home a feed, I made up an insulated bag with a movable divider. The base of the bag is mesh to allow any water to flow outh the scupper holes as per normal. If I was going to do more offshore work I would probably make up an insert to keep the fish juices in the bag and not flowing out the scuppers, burleying up the sharks.

    I found the rubber net on the side pockets was only useful for holding small items but I wanted to put tackle trays and an anchor in them so the rubber had to go. I had strap between the 3 screws for a while but think this final arrangement will be best. Bungy cords at the front to hold bulkier items and tools, and strap down the side to stick zip lines to to hold scissors pliers etc.

  10. #25

    Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    Nice work Just-chips!

    Get a padded or self inflating seat, your butt will sure thankyou for it!
    As for mounting a fish finder, make the transducer "through hull", scuff the face of the transducer and the inside of the kayak hull (on a flat surface parallel to the water below) with rough sand paper, apply marine silicon to one face and push together and tape overnight, works fantastic and can be removed or repositioned at any time, the battery can be housed ina mounted container this way inside the kayak also. make sure you have a dry bag for the keys and phone etc also!

  11. #26

    Thumbs up Re: Tricking up a Kayak (and other useful hints)

    hey guys

    just wonderin if anybody has any imformation on the prowler torque angler 4.2m with the drop-in mini kota motor with 33lbs thrust any imformation before purchase would be appreciated.

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