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View Full Version : Snyder Glas C108L-4W Build


tak35bne
15-11-2015, 07:09 PM
Bought two of these blanks to use as whiting / bream rods out of the boat, still playing with how I want to build it but would be interested if anyone has built on these blanks recently.
Bremic
21-11-2015, 09:42 AM
I have built a couple of the xl, 10 years ago now though.
sid_fishes
23-11-2015, 05:53 AM
mate i think thats the blank i built for tangles ..to be used as a whiting rod .
pm him
cheers
sid
Tangles
24-11-2015, 02:56 PM
and it has performed selflessly in the pursuit of those tasty things
tak35bne
06-12-2015, 12:50 AM
Pretty much have the build sorted as far as the butt section goes. Will use a set of microwave guides for each rod and since its been a while I have been practicing some binds. Starting to remember why I really enjoyed building a rod.

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tak35bne
06-12-2015, 05:08 PM
Settled on the binding designs, The first photo is the pattern for the guides (single foot Ti Microwave set) and the second image will be the trim around the decal.

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tak35bne
11-12-2015, 05:26 AM
Build has started and so far so good. Butt section on one rod complete just waiting on the decal.

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tak35bne
15-12-2015, 04:27 PM
I will start binding guides on in the next few days and I was wondering what is the best material to coat guide wraps with? I have also been told that my absolute first coat should be 50% epoxy and 50%thinning agent to get that epoxy right into the thread, is this good advice?

Dave
tak35bne
02-01-2016, 02:51 PM
Can anyone tell me the secret to getting a level epoxy finish. Epoxied the butt wrap and the first 4 guides the other day and I learnt two things. I have to tape near the bindings to get a consistent finish and I think I needed the epoxy a little warmer for the next lot. Using flex Coat high build.
Owen
03-01-2016, 07:35 AM
I wouldn't bother thinning epoxy but if you do I definitely wouldn't go as far as 50/50.
The "secret" to getting level epoxy is don't put too much on.
Each epoxy behaves a little differently but principle is the same.
When you apply it let the rod sit for 30 seconds or so.
As the excess forms drips on the bottom, wick them off with a brush.
Rotate 90 degrees and repeat a couple of times.
THEN start the drier.
Very gentle heat to remove bubbles.
It should take several coats to get the thickness and cover the thread properly.
Once it's spinning leave it alone.