Just the same as if your cable broke, or you fell over and let go of the wheel, or the attachment point pops off, never heard of a hose coming off, but I guess anything's possible, more likely it would leak before it just fell off.
all points taken onboard ,will pickup a steering knob tomorrow ,all they have are stainless ones so hopefully it wont get too hot in the sun .
a thought that has been nagging me is how much steering control do you have if one of the hydraulic hose ruptures or blows off when traveling ,will the motor go full lock because one hose still has pressure or will i have no control what so ever ?
Just the same as if your cable broke, or you fell over and let go of the wheel, or the attachment point pops off, never heard of a hose coming off, but I guess anything's possible, more likely it would leak before it just fell off.
It would depend on which hose failed. If it was the hose that held pressure against the prop torque, eventually the engine will go full lock. Catastrophic failure is extremely rare. In 20 years of fitting systems and autopilots I have only seen it once and that was due to plastic hydraulic lines being out in the sun unprotected for a lot of years. Most common issues are seals or leaks at fittings - both of which are a pain but normally not enough for loss of steering in entirety. Carrying some spare fluid to get you home is a good idea. In a pinch, pretty much any oil that isnt too thick or better still dexron 3 ATF will get you going. If you are really paranoid about hose failure a couple of fittings to suit, a section of hose and some oil would see repairs effected pretty quickly.
Thanks all for the replies. We have managed to partly free up the cable but due to the angle where the cable goes into the hill there is insufficient room to get the cable out without removal of the engine.
So my delemma is spend 600-700 for my local dealership to fix or give a crack with the oldest. Looking at what needs to be done does not look hard at all, steering cable is Teleflex just need to work out the length.
The engine is a 2012 Evinrude 115 HO, with the cowling removed I cannot see an anchor point for a engine hoist?
Should I decide to give it a go myself I have two questions, what is the correct way to support engine via a hoist, where should it be fixed too.
Second question is when the bolts go back in should they be greased or silkaflex be used?
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I had a cable steering failure and went hydraulic (Hydrive) a few years ago. Only issue is that you need to keep turning the wheel regularly while not in use ? weekly, to keep the seals moist. I have had the hydraulic steering seize up because I sprayed WD40 on the shaft and it dried out and locked the steering. Had to strip it back and replace the seals. Won't make that mistake again, only use grease now. Always take a spare seal and hydraulic oil with me on long trips now. SS
If I were in your position, I would keep working on the old one first. . Power steering oil is a great lubricant. Put some on the steering shaft, and move the motor back and forward, wiping off the rust as it comes out. Worked for me years ago.
David
Very odd. Had hydrive on my tinnie, now seastar that is 12 years old. Gets a random spray with either lanolin or wd40 intermittantly depending on what I get my hands on first and can spend 3 months at a time untouched courtesy of work and apart from a minor weep has been problem free. Never heard of an issue with Wd spray before.
Engine bolts through the transom will need sealing with Sika or similar
My cable steering snapped in the brisbane river, very unpleasant experience that one. Changed to hydraulic, best decision ever. I couldn’t get my old cable out without taking a grinder to it which may be the better option than taking the motor off if you decide to ditch the old system although note grinder sparks and fibreglass not a happy mix. Whatever you do dont pay someone $700 to put a new cable in, may as well go hydraulic at that outlay.
ive ever had an issue with wd40 on shafts either, grease...thats another matter.
Ok, I’m relatively comfortable with what needs to be done and reckon I can do it myself for parts only so 1/3 of the quotes costs. Have got the sons mate brining a engine hoist and I reckon the boat manufacturer will have a lifting ring which screws into the flywheel that I can borrow.
Thanks all for the assistance and will update on Monday/Tuesday with some pics
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Hi if u struggle to find a lifting ring I can lend u one if that helps. Also If it was me I would be careful not to get any air in to the 2 stroke oil line. I had issues with intermittent no oil alarms after motor removal for transom rebuild on mine. Needs to be bled correctly if air gets in system.
Cheers
Paul
Most motors you don't need to disconnect the motor, just unbolt and move slightly to get the cable out, have a look, it probably is not as daunting as it seems.