Other option may be a post in the middle and 4 smaller doors if you have sufficient width
Other option may be a post in the middle and 4 smaller doors if you have sufficient width
Yes the brace with the eight bolts needs to stay. You will need to put a SHS in place of the current frame for strength, this should tie into the portal frame at the top and horizontal ties to the portal frame as well. Scottar is correct in saying you may get sag in the hinges. This will only occur if the brace in the gate is not put in the correct way which should be from the bottom hinge up to the top corner and also if the hinge points are not adiqute 25mm solid pin hinges or shipping container hinges would work. Make sure you have two located in the top 1500mm of the door where the most strain will be. 1.6mm wall thickeness is all you will need for the gates themselves to keep the weight down.
cheers Nick
As Nick has added, the doors need bracing in the frame that effectively forms triangles to stop the door frame sagging under it's own weight. My frames have them from the top and bottom on the post side to the middle on the other side. I made my frames out of 40mm SHS with a 2mm wall but that was more to do with my welding skills and only having a stick welder - anything lighter than 2mm and I make a great colander LOL.
G-day
What size shed do you have is it 2.7 walls or 3m .Im just about to put one up 7.5 x 11 3m walls
i would like to go higher but $$$
7m x 10m x 3m
Thinking about this
http://www.midaliasteel.com/products...raming-system/
You have 6 or 8 columns there.....why not raise the whole shed 60cm and if you are lucky the existing door will not need an extension piece.
End of the day it might be about the same money as two big barn doors and rework the front of the shed.
Will also give you room for another level of shelves too.
Jack.
Just depends on your council. On a residential block in the Redland's I was only allowed a 2.7 metre wall unless I got signatures from any neighbour that could see the shed apparently or so I was told. It got way too hard, especially with the rentals as the agents are not allowed to release details of owners so you have to forward plans through them.
Sliding I think. Still mulling it over. Barn door would be preferable as no tracks to worry about. Haven't had a chance to ring the shed manufacturer to see if they have a solution.
Barn doors that follow the roof line would be my guess. If you go the sliding doors, you need a top sliding track. How are you going to attach it and to what? Or fit a top head guide U channel and bottom rollers on the doors, but once again it would extend out past the width of the shed.
Anything that is light gauge and screws together won't have the physical strength to support the door at the hinge. I could just lift my frames to fit them on my own but it was an absolute mission and they are only 1.3 metres wide. It will be able to be done, just a case of how heavy the posts and attachments points need to be. Gon Fishen is on the money that sliders will require a pretty hideous looking top track frame and the width either side of the shed - not really practical.
Had sliders on a far bigger shed at our local rural fire brigade and no problem to open and close doors just took a couple of seconds more than conventional doors.
I assume space restrictions preclude you from moving the roller door higher inside the shed ?
AB
You could fit the roller door externally higher and flash over it to maintain a weather seal.....will give you height to the apex if you wanted......
http://www.nustyleshutters.com.au/ro...s-gallery.html
Down towards the bottom shows a shed with external roller door
Jack.