Help me with some new motor teething issues

[metro_fisher]

I suspect it sits lower in the water at idle due to water ballast. It will be a consequence of improved stability.

There is no difference between the 90hp and 70hp Suzuki. Basically the same motor with different ECU mapping.

In terms of engine height, there is no doubt it is too low.

I suggest you take it back to the dealer and explain your performance issues and concern that motor is too low. Dealers should have offered a 1 month checkup anyway but anytime in the first 12 months is fair enough in my books.

[gofishin]

...So here's a pic of it on the trailer with the motor trimmed down...

need a better shot GB, from down low.

Use a straight edge and trim the O/B so that the A/V plate is parallel to the bottom of the keel, then measure the difference.

Also, what type /shape is the keel extrusion made of? I-beam, half pipe/round, or what?
Cheers
Brendon

[cormorant]

Thanks for answering the idiot questions as it is good to get a few facts right from the start.
Still hard from that photo to see just how low the motor is as you can't see the line of the keel/ bottom of the hull.
If you rested a bit of wood under the lowest point on the keel at the stern how much above the cav plate on the motor would the top of the wood be?

Builders plate on boat will possibly have the max transom weight and doubt they would have installed it is the motor exceeded it. Worth just having a look as insurers can be scum over a few kg if something went wrong.



Sea trialing the boat is putting it in the water, checking the trailer is set up right and then going for a run and checking motor heights, steering, leaks , bilge pumps , accessories and then a run to make sure it all feels right by someone experienced. Checking WOT and pop as well. Some things you really only find out when you are on a sea trial / water test and better to find it rather than let the client stumble through it as long as you are near enough the water so it is practical/ economic. A lot of dealers with production boats know the correct approx set up for the boats they sell so don't do test on every boat. Most clients don't know so are happy and don't know they could possibly get extra performance or better ride. all set ups have a compromise in some way but you just have to work through the issues one by one.


edit - while I was typing gofish has written it simpler than I could

[scottar]

Post deleted

[Axl]

The Sea Rod has ballast chambers built in, your video only goes for 30 seconds I am wondering if this is enough time for the chambers to empty fully allowing the boat to be up on the plane properly?

In saying that the motor certainly does look like it is too low, the anti cav plate appears to have too much water going over it, my rig was like that till I lifted the motor two holes.

The anti cav plate is now skimming the surface of the water with next to nothing flowing over it and it changed the way the boat handles dramatically.

[BAR UP]

Hey Goat boy I have a 5.2 Sea Rod and I had to lift my motor (100hp Yamaha) up to the top hole and then I took me 5 props to get it right. It goes like a snouser now. I also have a mate Rob with a 4.5 Sea Rod and he has had a shit of a time getting his boat set up right. He also had issues of his boat listing to one side. he now runs a jack plate to get his motor higher than the holes will allow and a bit of playing around with the prop and his boat goes pretty good now. Rob is happy for you to call him and discuss if you wish. Rob Cameron 0418180342.

[goat boy]

Thanks everyone for the input, it's much appreciated, I am going to contact the dealer today and have a yarn about how it's handling, raising the motor etc. For what it's worth, there is approx 2inches difference between the a/v plate and the bottom of the keel when trimmed right down.
Over all I am very happy with everything, I just want to make sure its performing right/to the best of it's ability.
Cheers again

[cormorant]

As expected it sounds like it is to low and a good dealer on a new rig will work with you to get the right set up. all things can be quickly and easily fixed and apart from prop changes at very little cost apart from time. Make it easy for the dealer. Approach him with facts and don't try and take high ground of blame him etc. Take some photos showing how low the motor is, photo cav plate , of it at rest in the water and also on the plane. Record what revs and speed the boat gets up onto the plane with the motor trimmed in , what revs and speed it will just hold the plane and if safe also so a short WOT ( wide open throttle) run and record speed and revs fully trimmed out as far as you can. Run some tight turns at speed and confirm if the prop blows out ( sucks air and cavitates) and note that as well. The motor must be getting the correct WOT revs as if not is will be labouring and will shorten it's life and give average performance and poor fuel consumption at every speed. This can affect your warranty later if the motor has issues. This data will show the dealer all is not perfect and if he doesn't give a toss it will give you baseline data to compare to as you raise the motor and later possibly change props

Record the same data after each change you make and then you will know in the future if you are losing any performance. If you normally travel with a full icebox and 2 blokes grab the same weight in sand bags and put em in the boat with a full tank of fuel so you are actually going to check your performance and set up in real life conditions.

Now for the blunt bit. I am surprised they left the set up like that if they sea trialed / water tested the boat. Standard props are rarely correct . Some dealers mount low and use standard props as clients don't know any better. It is very common for dealers to mount a motor low as they only get a few people come back for correcting the set up as opposed to if they mount it high and the prop " blows out" at every tight turn etc etc or the client gets porpoising etc which is more dangerous especially with a inexperienced boater who doesn't know how to trim a boat. .

Any changes be careful as the boat will react differently to height changes with steering and in tight turns until it is propped right it might blow out.

blunt point 2 . If they have not done a proper sea trial I would also double check the trailer for all roller adjustments , check bolts are firm , dumb things like check the spare is the same stud pattern and wheel nuts can be undone as better to know they are right now rather than on the side of the road. Jack up the wheels and check for any bearing noise or play and also for water intrusion as many trailers sit around for a while and issues don't show till they get used a bit. A good dealer would have done all of these in a pre-delivery check. .

Rarely is a boat ever delivered and perfect so just work through the issues and if you are not experienced or mechanical get the dealer to show you or a mate what is going on to help out


If the dealer is a jerk and pisses you off at least you will have the data to start getting it right and once height is ok you can use fresh data to get prop choice correct if required. Pisses me off how some dealers don't put any effort in to helping clients and they wonder why the whole industry has a jaded reputation then again many clients with the excitement / novelty of a new boat never listen to a word a dealer says or read anything they are given .

[BAR UP]

Don't waste your time with Justin or Paul from Bris Yamaha.