Reply With QuoteOkay,
Pics are up now, I think????
Tim
Tim
The pics are not working.
Please consider http://www.ausfish.com.au/vforum/sho...he-chat-boards , so we can all appreciate whats happened to your boat and be suitably grateful for the existence of people like Col Swenson.
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
Okay,
Pics are up now, I think????
Tim
Sadly - no - not on my 'puter anyway?Originally Posted by Tim_N
The faulty bung is one of those plastic types which is screwed into the transom.
It is being removed and replaced by an aluminium type which will be fully welded in.
Col assures me that the little Fisher will be good for another 2000+ engine hours after he is finished with it. The hull structure and integrity will not be compromised in any way. He would know.
Boy, I need to go fishing......
Tim
Whilst the repairs are happening and the floor is out will you be cutting some holes in the bulkheads (not sure if they are called bulkheads or stringers) at the centre where the bottom plates join to allow the water to drain from the front through them and out the bungs at the rear?
This obviously needs to be done to stop the same thing happening again.
I wonder if the newer plate boats have this anyone know?
It makes sense to me that they would so as all the water can drain out from the fornt to the rear of the hull.
Cheers Axl
Yep all good.
Cheers Axl
Most boats I know of have "mouse holes" along the keel or longitudinal strakes so as not to hold water unless in a sealed compartment and then they should have adequate inspection hatches.
A Proud Member of
"The Rebel Alliance"
They all have mouse holes .The boat wasn't wound up high enough on the jockey wheel when sitting or maybe they were blocked.
I would advise anyone with a platey to stick a hose up it's you know what and flush it out every now and then and make sure it doesn't have salt water laying in it.
Cheers OB
Also,
Col is going to spary the inside of the hull with a product called Sharkide, or something like that, when the repairs are complete.
This is a clear film which coats the aluminium from any intrusions, like salt etc, a bit like a permanent barrier cream.
There is a lot going on under the floor, and when it is finished, you probably won't know that anything has changed I reckon.
Tim
Hi
I find it odd that the corrosion is worse in the middle of some of the panels not at the edge . Corrosion can be like that as it finds the easiest point but center of a panel still may have had some electrical or other influence? Is that just the way it is or is there some explaination? There would have been salt over the lot of them and a pool of salt water along the keel. Was the keel area protected as it was washed by leaking freshwater and washdown as well?
Great there is still lots of metal there and many years life left in her. Right wire , right metal and good as new. Glad to hear foam blocks are going in and tabs can be put in not to hold them off the hull bottom and up under the floor, under teh gunnels as there is no such thing as a airtight compartment except for the minute after it is tested.
There seems to be no pattern as to why the areas are where they are, but it is pretty much all from the first stringer down to the keel.
Col can't explain it, so I'm no chance of giving you an explaination.
And yes you're right, thankfully there is plenty of good meat for the repair.
Tim
Thanks for the reply Tim
Mate can you tell me if you use a truck wash or what detergent you use to wash down the boat if any?. Reason I ask is I know of some chemicals thay will do similar damage when left in alloy tanks . For instance gycol nearly ate through the bottom of several navy ships as when it leaked it wasn't neutralised and when replacing it it was dumped to the bilge to themn be scavanged etc. People just didn't understand how corrosive glycol and salt water was in that case and how it accellerated a corrosion problem. Just trying to go left field to find a cause. If the alloy wasn't faulty to start with then to get pin holes in that thick a alloy it nearly has to be something electrical acting on impurities as the weakest link. I'd be re-testing for no electrical current in that hull after it is all put back together both in and out of the water with all electronics and motor on. Last left field would be if you had it tied up to a marina which had a large stray electric current sometimes in it's life? Did it have any annodes fitted and did they dissolve?
Did the boat have a battery charger used in it regularly?
The hull has full flow through decks, so the only way to wash inside it, would be to stick a hose up its bung hole and flood that cavity.
I have thought about electrical leaks, but it has never had a battery charger connected to it, nor has it been moored at a marina.
There are no other points of corrosion anywhere else.
Normally you would see areas of paint bubbling, or rivets falling out, or having a constantly flat battery, but it doesn't have any such issues.
All the annodes on the outboard are fine also.
The boat has a battery isolator switch and it is always off except during the hours I'm using it on the water. I crack the battery before it goes down the ramp and crack the battery again after I have flushed it out at home, so there is no other logic apart from salt inundation.
I think that sea water has got in, dried out to a large degree, but has been concerntrated as a result and being in a confined, restricted, hot and humid environment, it has caused this reaction.
However, if the salt water wasn't allowed to enter in the first place, or if it has, it must be allowed to fully drain.
So, the mouse holes have been expanded slightly, all crap and crud removed from the hull, and a new weld in bung added, so I do not expect this to happen again, touch wood.
I will do as Col has suggested and stick a hose up her bung hole on a regular basis, just for good measure.
BTW, there will be some more pics coming through soon.
Tim
Looking at the pictures will you see the patches from the bottom of the boat or is origin going to grind it down so it looks like a single sheet of plate.??
I would reckon, that by the time it is finished and the repoairs completed, that you won't visibly notice the patches.
They're being welded internally firstly, then externally, then sanded down for a smooth finish.
My guess is you wouldn't know it has been fixed, except the sanded parts are probably going to be bright and shiney and the rest of the hull, not so.
Will post a pic when all done.
Tim
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