stutter ................ 120 sec thing is killing me steve (I do understand Y though keep up the good work steve.... & the other MODs as well)
Welcome aboard Dan ......... I was thinking a 50 hp looking for econ not speed , 100 hp sounds like overkill just how fast do you want to go in a 4.6m safety first in my book.
Big E
A. Yes the sanding will end..... eventually! #How did you cohn someone into helping you? He must owe you big time in the favours stakes.Originally Posted by bigE
#
And yes, Ross drank coupious amounts of both beer and Cougar bourbon.... I'm a Coca Cola kid #
Keep up the great work BigE #
HINT: To reduce the itching, put some powder on before sanding..... and the blue overalls Blaze recommended in the Play-Pen thread are definitely better than the white overalls.
big E,
on the subject of hp i would be inclined to go a 70hp two stroke. that will be enough power without sacrificing too much economy. I also own a early model 4.6m hull (crusader) but a different shape to yours, with more free board and deeper vee, and the 70 pushes it to 36mph, at 5500 rpm and cruises at 22mph at 3900 to 4100 rpm depending on the conditions. 100 hp could be dangerous on that hull, and may even be too heavy.
im also planning a similar project with my boat when i get back to aus in a years time (in england at present) fitting some new stringers and bulk heads and even making some storage pockets to fit all my plano tackle draws. foam flotation would be a good idea also to keep hull noise down and add some strength to the hull. But am dreading the whole cut down of the deck and removing all of the old fibreglass.
andrew
Big e I'm with andrew on this ,70-75 would be the most I would put on it .From the pics it looks like you have a fairly low freeboard and the transom is also cut down low.You said you went out in her a couple of months ago ,what did she have on the back then?I would be conerned about the hulls ability to support more than a 75 2 stroke,Have a look at boatpoint ,search for boats the same length and compare,but you will have to keep to the older boats as newer one have higher freeboard and many have o/b pods.
good luck and cheers
jon
Hi
If you are thinking about a new donk, think about a 25" leg which will require you to build up the transom hieght when you put the new one in. When I done mine I build to 25" and when I got the donk, cut it down to suit a 20" as that was all I could come up with at the time. Easy to do this than to try and add later.
cheers
blaze
thanks [smiley=dankk2.gif] to those who responded RE the motor size some thought in this area has made me think a 60hp would be a resonable compromise of Power & econ (fancy me useing outboard motor & ecom in the same sentence) anyhow time for an update. well the sanding [smiley=builder.gif] is almost done and I have conned another mate (yes I have more than one) to help with the timber work as I have the ability to split or crack timber at 30 paces [smiley=thumbsdown.gif](high school shop teacher is still in counceling i think) the stringers were not that hard (Mate did em) but the dech was a whole different ball game it took lots of measuring and level work it didnt help much that the hull is not actually plumb/square from the factory. trying to get things to square up was impossible it was driving me mate spare [smiley=wut.gif] (he is a perfectionist) we eventually took some measurements from the bow to each rear corner & guess what ....... out by 20mm (guess it was a friday boat) so we took our be guess and halfed the differance it will be intresting to see if there is any effects later on. anyhow not to many pics (mate is Camera shy & sorry girls he's taken ) ((NOT BY ME)) he is good with tools [smiley=smash.gif] [smiley=hammer.gif]though.
deck not dech as previously stated.
measure twice cut once.........eerrr plan some sand sand , bugger cut again .......... awww for christ sake just guess I'm as itchy as hell......
more
Okay time for some imput from you guys, as i have never glassed before & my equipment is basic, what type type of glass is easyist/best to use to glass stringers in chop strand or woven mat , what weight (bev & ross if your about perhaps your glassin mate could give some direction) can you mix an match IE: CS for the stringers & WM for the decks and smooth surfaces? and any other tips you may think would be helpful.
Regards
BigE
note the transducer wet box fill with oil hope it works , any comments
Big E
Hi bigE,
Your boat probably wasn't a Friday model.... apparently it is quite common for boat moulds to differ slightly from one side to the other. Mould builders mustn't be as fussy as rebuilders #
Fibreglass - we used 600GR csm throughout.... and one patch of woven under the well where the bilge pump board was going and lapping up the transom past where the bung hole would be.
Big e I would go to great lengths to ensure that the hull and dek is as true and level as possible.Measure your diagonals at the transom and then if they are equal you could use that as starting point for trueing up the hull.Ensure that the hull is adequately supported on the trailer and that the hull/deck sides cannot fall outwards.It is impossible to true it up once you have started glassing in the floor as this will form a structural member and must be removed to allow hull to twist if need be.
Let the plumb bob and spirit level be your friend,a few hours spent getting it right will save you time later plus you wont end up with a twisted ,ill handling hull.Good luck
cheers jon
BigE,
2 questions for you:-
1) What type of wood are the stringers/cross members made from
2) What are the dimensions of the wood (It looks pretty wide, and looks like what I'm looking for)
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks bev I have been playing around with Woven Mat and am finding it to hard to get into tight corners so it's off to the shops next week to buy some Chop stand and give that a go. 600 GM sounds pretty heavy (ross doesn't go looking for sandbars does he??lol) is it stiff to use and is it hard to wet out?
(the F/G girl the F/G )
Dan it is marine grade Hoop pine i bought it in a 6000mm x 200mmx 50mm lenght and cut it down, the deck is an imported marine ply which was reasonable price but the best thing was the size 2440mm x 1220mm which means one sheet would do the entire width of the boat so no joins in the middle.
Jon it look like i've been cursed with the hex of the wobbley spirit level as it has taken ages to get the deck even in the ball park. Plumb Bob? ...... eerrr bob said he prefers apples, sorry mate I dont have one an probaby would use it wrong any way (is that possible?) so I an Relying on the old spirit level & Tape method ( Are Spirit Levels so named cause they can drive you to drink.)
Regards BigE
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