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Thread: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

  1. #1

    Question Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Hey All,

    I have this....

    20220529_201536 (2).jpg


    20220529_201505.jpg


    Its looking very worn and faded. So I want to try refurbishing it.

    I bought 2 cans of Phantom black spray paint, and I bought a Mercury sticker kit, both from ebay, and they arrived last week.


    Firstly, I'm a bit nervous about taking this on, how big a job is it ?


    If I decided to pay someone, who do I take it to and how much is a fair price ?


    Also...
    20220529_201542 (2).jpg

    This sticker is like a 3D piece of plastic.

    Should I recondition around it, by covering it up ? Or is it best to remove it and reapply after repainting ?


    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    In the Jungle/Mission Beach Hinterland

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    I messed up a Mercury redband cowl, cracked it and took some bark off..

    So I just bogged , sanded it, primed it on the bogged areas..then taped and covered the stickers (which were still in really good nick) and sprayed with a black spraycan..

    I was impressed how well it came up and you couldnt even see where the damage was even in sunlight..

  3. #3
    Ausfish Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Kalbarri, WA

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    it shouldn't be hard or expensive to get it looking "factory" again if you do the hard work your self. Pull all the stickers off, including the embossed one, and sand back well. Then the painter only has to prime and paint.

    Or just rattle pack it yourself, as Disorderly says above. But to get a really good job, you'll still need to prep it properly, as above. Multiple coats, wet and dry between, with a clear coat over the top.

  4. #4

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by ranmar850 View Post
    it shouldn't be hard or expensive to get it looking "factory" again if you do the hard work your self. Pull all the stickers off, including the embossed one, and sand back well. Then the painter only has to prime and paint.

    Or just rattle pack it yourself, as Disorderly says above. But to get a really good job, you'll still need to prep it properly, as above. Multiple coats, wet and dry between, with a clear coat over the top.
    So you have to lightly sand after each coat ? I have 2 cans of standard auto spray paint, and 2 cans of Phantom Black, which is Mercury's colour. I'm doing the bottom cowlings also, so I plan to used most, if not all of this.

    Also, I planned to put the decals over the dry paint. Then spray this over the whole lot, to protect the decals and the paint from UV and shrinkage. Good idea or bad idea ?

    Attachment 125701

  5. #5

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Hi Google is your friend

    using ' repaint outboard motor cowl' there were pages of links on how to do it

    eg Painting Your Outboard Motor | Boating Mag

  6. #6

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by stevet View Post
    Hi Google is your friend

    using ' repaint outboard motor cowl' there were pages of links on how to do it

    eg Painting Your Outboard Motor | Boating Mag
    Don't skip the washing part because if you've used polish at any time it needs to be removed first otherwise the sanding will push it into the cowling and that's when you get those spots where the paint won't take properly.

  7. #7

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dignity View Post
    Don't skip the washing part because if you've used polish at any time it needs to be removed first otherwise the sanding will push it into the cowling and that's when you get those spots where the paint won't take properly.
    Yep, I know from other jobs, painting is 50% preparation, and attention to detail at the cleaning stage.

    One of the reasons I hate it cause I'm lazy and don't have patience, so take short cuts

    One if which is using this, instead of filling 2 minor scratches

    SCA_288527_hi-res.jpg

  8. #8

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    So you have to lightly sand after each coat ? I have 2 cans of standard auto spray paint, and 2 cans of Phantom Black, which is Mercury's colour.

    Attachment 125701
    I'd love to hear the quorum on this as I keep being told you don't/can't sand between coats with cans because the paint is too soft. "Just put clear over it" they say...I always get dull peel when I do. Last effort was a fibreglass motorcycle cowl.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  9. #9

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by TheRealPoMo View Post
    I'd love to hear the quorum on this as I keep being told you don't/can't sand between coats with cans because the paint is too soft. "Just put clear over it" they say...I always get dull peel when I do. Last effort was a fibreglass motorcycle cowl.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    20220610_142927.jpg
    I have no idea, but from my experience tonight, if you try sanding too early, you'll make chewing gum of the paint. I'm finding that I need to wait a long time between coats, and sanding with 400 to 600 grit, and a very light touch.

    In saying that, I'm working under cover but outside, and its started raining, so I think that significantly delays the curing process?

    I put 2 coats of primer/filler spray, and 2 coats of cheap black spray paint. I've given up, the rain is slowing things down too much.

    Tomorrow, I plan to lightly sand the whole lot, and begin using my 2 Phantom black spray paint as my top coat, bought from here https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192374375529

    If this doesn't finish well, then the project is a flop. But I'm hoping that the cheap coat finished poorly because its cheap, or humid, or acrylic.

    I sprayed the handle with the BCS paint as a sample for my curiosity and it immediately felt like a superior quality, that may just be because its a gloss, where as the cheap paint was acrylic ?

  10. #10

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Your not meant to paint on rainy or humid days or in high humidity, primers usually dry in around 2-3 hours

    Primer is meant to go on thick it should only need 1 layer if u sand thru than 2 layers

    So long as the base coat is even no runs and no light and dark shades your next stage the clear is where it all comes together u really want a high quality 2k spray can of gloss clear

    Any orange peel or fish eye in the clear coat can be wet sanded out than u polish the clear coat and it comes out micky mouse

    I recently used a 2k spray can of clear from concept paints and the spray can lets out of lot of spray so go really lightly on the coats, 3 very light coats 10mins apart than let it cure well before wet sanding

  11. #11

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    Your not meant to paint on rainy or humid days or in high humidity, primers usually dry in around 2-3 hours

    Primer is meant to go on thick it should only need 1 layer if u sand thru than 2 layers

    So long as the base coat is even no runs and no light and dark shades your next stage the clear is where it all comes together u really want a high quality 2k spray can of gloss clear

    Any orange peel or fish eye in the clear coat can be wet sanded out than u polish the clear coat and it comes out micky mouse

    I recently used a 2k spray can of clear from concept paints and the spray can lets out of lot of spray so go really lightly on the coats, 3 very light coats 10mins apart than let it cure well before wet sanding
    Cool, Thanks for the tips !

    I used 3 coats of SCA acrylic multipurpose paint, then 2 this coats of this as my base coat https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192374375529 They are $45 each and take 3 weeks to get to Perth, I only got 2 cans.

    Thing is, it came out looking like this...
    285906100_530830812020127_3985705129351381623_n.jpg


    286011024_316404244031685_14077370529891207_n.jpg

    Its a matt look, and you can still see the faint marks from the decals. Not what I was expecting ??

    I have this as a top coat ??

    287574337_427835792522532_513612114033779200_n.jpg

    A friend of mine told me to scrap the lot, sand it all back and start again with enamel?

    Thoughts?

  12. #12

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Bugger that is fish eye or orange peel that paint is pretty shit i would be contacting the seller @ $45 a can no way that looks just like $5 spray can

    Seeing the marks thru the paint is you didnt do enough prep work on the filling and sanding

    Rub it all smooth again get rid of all that orange peel

    Than lay down a primer give it a nice coating, let it cure than give it a sand this is the time u want to fix any imperfections and u want to take the gloss off all of the primer

    Now u lay down a flat or non gloss no semi gloss just flat black, next stage is the clear coat use a 2k (2 pack) clear coat 3 very light coats 10mins apart, let it cure 2 days, than get some really fine wet sand paper and the hose and wet sand the orange peel

    When u wet sand stop frequently and dry the surface you'll see the clear coat highs rubbing away u want to sand the clear coat all down evenly, than polish it and it will look like magic

  13. #13

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    Bugger that is fish eye or orange peel that paint is pretty shit i would be contacting the seller @ $45 a can no way that looks just like $5 spray can

    Seeing the marks thru the paint is you didnt do enough prep work on the filling and sanding

    Rub it all smooth again get rid of all that orange peel

    Than lay down a primer give it a nice coating, let it cure than give it a sand this is the time u want to fix any imperfections and u want to take the gloss off all of the primer

    Now u lay down a flat or non gloss no semi gloss just flat black, next stage is the clear coat use a 2k (2 pack) clear coat 3 very light coats 10mins apart, let it cure 2 days, than get some really fine wet sand paper and the hose and wet sand the orange peel

    When u wet sand stop frequently and dry the surface you'll see the clear coat highs rubbing away u want to sand the clear coat all down evenly, than polish it and it will look like magic
    I'm a complete noob at this, so I was wondering is this the paint, or the painter ?

    Working on the lower cowling, I put 2 coats of the $45 paint after I fine wet sanded the orange peel from the cheap paint and got this

    Attachment 125721

    Its over, time for my third sanding back and priming

    Ahwell, looks like I bit off more than I could chew, and its going to be one of those DIY jobs that costs me and teachs me quite a bit.

    For a DIY "f" up, its only costing me $100 in wasted materials so far, rather than $1,000's so could be worse.

    I'm putting a bad review up for that paint. Its the wrong type entirely. Im off to buys this https://www.whitworths.com.au/norgla...l-aerosol-300g

  14. #14

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Yep looks like my efforts after following the advice of not sanding colour coats. I fail to see how covering dull orange peel with clear can miraculously make it perfect - and have proven that it doesn't. Despite what manufacturers and YouTube says. Next time I'll do it old school and sand 1000 wet between each coat even if that means letting the shitty paint harden for a week each time.
    I helped professional spray painters do mate's cars back in the 80's and I remember alot of wet sanding.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

  15. #15

    Re: Outboard Cowling refurbish - how hard is it ?

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    Bugger that is fish eye or orange peel that paint is pretty shit i would be contacting the seller @ $45 a can no way that looks just like $5 spray can

    Seeing the marks thru the paint is you didnt do enough prep work on the filling and sanding

    Rub it all smooth again get rid of all that orange peel

    Than lay down a primer give it a nice coating, let it cure than give it a sand this is the time u want to fix any imperfections and u want to take the gloss off all of the primer

    Now u lay down a flat or non gloss no semi gloss just flat black, next stage is the clear coat use a 2k (2 pack) clear coat 3 very light coats 10mins apart, let it cure 2 days, than get some really fine wet sand paper and the hose and wet sand the orange peel

    When u wet sand stop frequently and dry the surface you'll see the clear coat highs rubbing away u want to sand the clear coat all down evenly, than polish it and it will look like magic
    I bought 3 cans of this stuff.

    20220613_155604.jpg
    20220613_155609.jpg20220613_155614.jpg

    Bloke in the store said it doesn't need primer or a top coat, just sand back and spray on he reckons. He said its not like painting a car, and he's a shipwright.

    The instructions say " to enhance and protect the finish, apply Moeller Clear Coat (part number 025519)"

    Called the store, and they don't stock it anyway
    Attached Images Attached Images

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