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Thread: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

  1. #1

    Question Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Hi All,

    I want to tidy up my dash, as its starting to look like a termite home with all the drill holes from previous owners items.

    As its vertical, and a small area, what's the best way to refill the holes. And how do you finish it off ?

    Will it look like its got a bad case of small pox with the new white dots on old skin ?


    Also, the previous owner screwed a heavy AM/FM radio, and a CB radio, below the rear cover, whatever its called ??

    Anyway, whatever was holding this cover up obviously failed with the extra weight, and he randomly drilled screws all over the place, like a f'ing idiot

    I intend to remove the AM/FM radio, flush mount the VHF, remove the engine guard(just behind the wheel), and flush mount a circular radio I bought on ebay.

    Once the extra weight is gone, how is this back instrument panel cover actually meant to be secured ?

    It needs to be easily removable in case I need to change a fuse or anything like that at sea, preferably without tools ??

    Anyone got an examples ?

    Thanks !!

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  2. #2

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    The door would have had a captive bolt fiberglassed in and a wing init would have held the hatch closed

    if the face is perfectly flat go to a plastics place and get them to cut something to shape and bevel the edges a few evenly placed riv nuts means the whole thing would be removable again easily in the future

    can add a rubber gasket cut from a sheet from one of those rubber places as the riv nuts means it will sit a few mm proud of the old dash

    neat and tidy and no fibreglass work

  3. #3

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Quote Originally Posted by stevej View Post
    The door would have had a captive bolt fiberglassed in and a wing init would have held the hatch closed

    if the face is perfectly flat go to a plastics place and get them to cut something to shape and bevel the edges a few evenly placed riv nuts means the whole thing would be removable again easily in the future

    can add a rubber gasket cut from a sheet from one of those rubber places as the riv nuts means it will sit a few mm proud of the old dash

    neat and tidy and no fibreglass work
    When I changed motors and all new gauges that is what I did, did mine in a deep smokey colour.

  4. #4

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Quote Originally Posted by stevej View Post
    The door would have had a captive bolt fiberglassed in and a wing init would have held the hatch closed

    if the face is perfectly flat go to a plastics place and get them to cut something to shape and bevel the edges a few evenly placed riv nuts means the whole thing would be removable again easily in the future

    can add a rubber gasket cut from a sheet from one of those rubber places as the riv nuts means it will sit a few mm proud of the old dash

    neat and tidy and no fibreglass work
    Thanks stevej!

    I'm guessing the "wing init" is a mistyping and you meant a wing nut ? That makes sense on the top, as there is a bolt fibreglassed in, which is different to the others. Not sure how the bottom is held up though.

    I've not familiar with riv nuts before, so not sure there, will have to look that up! Actually, Im a bit confused, your referring to the back bit right?

  5. #5

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Quote Originally Posted by Dignity View Post
    When I changed motors and all new gauges that is what I did, did mine in a deep smokey colour.
    Dont suppose you got a pic ? Cant get my head around it.

  6. #6

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Smidsy, I was referring to the face panel. Mine had 5 holes from previous gauges. I just screwed a sheet of poly carbonate direct to the dash and used a sealant (forgotten the name) which is strip like and looks and feels like blue tack to seal it, better than sika etc. In a previous boat I'd replaced the cabin windows in a similar way as the old ones were alum framed and it was going to cost the earth to replace, made it look so much better and more modern.

    I used a hole saw to cut plugs for the original holes and just did a couple of sheets of fibreglass underneath, that way new holes would have support. You won't need to do that as yours is purely for cosmetic sake.
    I'm not a fan of rivnuts (blind fixing, has a nut at the end and is fixed using a tool similar to a pop riveter), if they don't grip well initially they are painful to remove and in fibreglass I've found vibration causes them to loosen. Also very expensive in SS. Just use a SS screw and lock nut.
    When I'm back home I'll see if I can get a photo for you.

  7. #7

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    I also had the same issue when repowering needing to cover up old holes that were for speedo, rpm. 2 x volts and trim tabs.

    The easy way is to shape a cover plate over the holes.

    The photo with the red masking tape is a carboard template I made to fit the required shape. The cover plate can be made out of numerous material eg perspex, starboard or metal. The plate/board can be covered with a multitude of finishes from original material finish, wrapped, powder coated or in my case aqua-dipped.

    My process involved:
    • making the template, including all fixing holes etc
    • transferring the template to an electronic file for water blasting cutting,
    • as I wanted the fixing screws hidden, having stainless steel bolts welded onto the plate that resulted in the outer face having a smooth finish with no fixing screws evident
    • trail fitted etc - got it right
    • aqua dipped for the end result


    total cost the stainless steel plate ready for aqua dipping $190
    aqua dipping $300

    there are cheaper solutions - I got the finish i was looking for to modernize the dash appearance. The up side is that it can be modified and refinished if necessary
    Cheers
    stevet
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Ausfish Silver Member Ducksnutz's Avatar
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    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Quote Originally Posted by stevet View Post
    I also had the same issue when repowering needing to cover up old holes that were for speedo, rpm. 2 x volts and trim tabs.

    The easy way is to shape a cover plate over the holes.

    The photo with the red masking tape is a carboard template I made to fit the required shape. The cover plate can be made out of numerous material eg perspex, starboard or metal. The plate/board can be covered with a multitude of finishes from original material finish, wrapped, powder coated or in my case aqua-dipped.

    My process involved:
    • making the template, including all fixing holes etc
    • transferring the template to an electronic file for water blasting cutting,
    • as I wanted the fixing screws hidden, having stainless steel bolts welded onto the plate that resulted in the outer face having a smooth finish with no fixing screws evident
    • trail fitted etc - got it right
    • aqua dipped for the end result


    total cost the stainless steel plate ready for aqua dipping $190
    aqua dipping $300

    there are cheaper solutions - I got the finish i was looking for to modernize the dash appearance. The up side is that it can be modified and refinished if necessary
    Cheers
    stevet
    Bloody nice job mate!👍
    Matilda

  9. #9

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

    Quote Originally Posted by stevet View Post
    I also had the same issue when repowering needing to cover up old holes that were for speedo, rpm. 2 x volts and trim tabs.

    The easy way is to shape a cover plate over the holes.

    The photo with the red masking tape is a carboard template I made to fit the required shape. The cover plate can be made out of numerous material eg perspex, starboard or metal. The plate/board can be covered with a multitude of finishes from original material finish, wrapped, powder coated or in my case aqua-dipped.

    My process involved:
    • making the template, including all fixing holes etc
    • transferring the template to an electronic file for water blasting cutting,
    • as I wanted the fixing screws hidden, having stainless steel bolts welded onto the plate that resulted in the outer face having a smooth finish with no fixing screws evident
    • trail fitted etc - got it right
    • aqua dipped for the end result


    total cost the stainless steel plate ready for aqua dipping $190
    aqua dipping $300

    there are cheaper solutions - I got the finish i was looking for to modernize the dash appearance. The up side is that it can be modified and refinished if necessary
    Cheers
    stevet
    That looks great, pity the aqua dipping is so expensive in regards to the actual work of making the panel, but I like it.
    I guess it depends on Smidsy budget, a sheet of poly carbonate would be significantly less.

    I have a tendency to do the work then realise I should have done a "before" photo.

  10. #10

    Re: Half Cab console tidy up & refilling drill holes fibreglass

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    That looks great, pity the aqua dipping is so expensive in regards to the actual work of making the panel, but I like it.
    I guess it depends on Smidsy budget, a sheet of poly carbonate would be significantly less.
    Wrapped Poly carbonate would have been my next option.

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