Quality trailer bearings

[NAGG]

With the upcoming trip to the Whitsundays - I thought I'd better rebuild the bearings ...... glad I did

Having removed the 1st hub this morning & actually pulled the bearing ( 1st time in 4 years) - I was pleasantly surprised to see just how well the bearing held up . This rim had discoloured grease so there was some concern & certainly the seal needed replacement .

I was fortunate as the bearings were a different size to my spares ( Holden HT) .... didn't know as I assumed . I did have 1 set that came with the boat

I worked out that the bearings had done around 18,000kms - but check them out - no pitting & smooth as . These were run with bearing buddies . Hopefully the next 3 will be similar ( all look to have nice clean grease .

Chris

[Dignity]

With the upcoming trip to the Whitsundays - I thought I'd better rebuild the bearings ...... glad I did

Having removed the 1st hub this morning & actually pulled the bearing ( 1st time in 4 years) - I was pleasantly surprised to see just how well the bearing held up . This rim had discoloured grease so there was some concern & certainly the seal needed replacement .

I was fortunate as the bearings were a different size to my spares ( Holden HT) .... didn't know as I assumed . I did have 1 set that came with the boat

I worked out that the bearings had done around 18,000kms - but check them out - no pitting & smooth as . These were run with bearing buddies . Hopefully the next 3 will be similar ( all look to have nice clean grease .

Chris

Just being a good scout.

[Lovey80]

This has to be the number 2 thing all boaties need to acquaint themselves with. Just scheduling routine maintenance for someone else to do it just won’t cut it eventually. Sooner or later water will get in on fresh bearings (much easier on dual axles also) and 4-5 months later they are stuffed. If you check them yourself regularly you’ll have peace of mind.

[NAGG]

This has to be the number 2 thing all boaties need to acquaint themselves with. Just scheduling routine maintenance for someone else to do it just won’t cut it eventually. Sooner or later water will get in on fresh bearings (much easier on dual axles also) and 4-5 months later they are stuffed. If you check them yourself regularly you’ll have peace of mind.

Absolutely

As a bare minimum - jack the trailer up ..... give the wheel a wobble (checking for free play)
Check the back seal , remove the grease cap or bearing buddy & check what the grease looks like ....... if any doubts remove the wheel & take off the hub - rebuild .

This is actually the longest I've gone without doing a complete rebuild - normally it would be once a year prior to a road trip (not 4 years) . This trailer just would get the jack up inspection but I thought I might be rolling the dice once too often - decision made once I saw discoloured grease . .

Boaties really should familiarise themselves with how to maintain their trailer & do those bearings themselves .

Personally I have little faith in mechanics doing trailers - too easy to chuck in cheap bearings , use sub standard grease & not enough (like a mate discovered) .... or something as basic as not replacing the split pin (like another mate discovered after having his caravans bearings done)

One other thing - the longer you leave it - the harder it is to remove calipers etc

Always use good quality bearings & grease .....

Chris

[Lovey80]

Good advice. I must say that buying a $40 bearing race drift set was the best money I ever spent. They can be an absolute pain in the arse getting them in straight sometimes. With the drift set they go in first time every time and saves a bunch of time.

[disorderly]

Good advice. I must say that buying a $40 bearing race drift set was the best money I ever spent. They can be an absolute pain in the arse getting them in straight sometimes. With the drift set they go in first time every time and saves a bunch of time.

Well there you go...I figured there must have been some proper tool for it but always perservered with the usual stuff around trying to tap them in evenly without damaging the bloody things....
I think one of those sets will be my next purchase..

While we are at it is there any easy way to get them out...?..sometimes can be relatively easy and sometimes a b!tch..

[NAGG]

Good advice. I must say that buying a $40 bearing race drift set was the best money I ever spent. They can be an absolute pain in the arse getting them in straight sometimes. With the drift set they go in first time every time and saves a bunch of time.

I need to get myself a drift set - $40 does sound like good value ........ beats knocking them in with a boat roller & piece of brass rod (works though)

I'll see if CBC bearing have a set this morning .

Chris

[Dignity]

Good advice. I must say that buying a $40 bearing race drift set was the best money I ever spent. They can be an absolute pain in the arse getting them in straight sometimes. With the drift set they go in first time every time and saves a bunch of time.

I really should get a set, I usually carry just a piece of 5mm thick ally to tap them in initially then carry a couple of cones that I've ground down so the slip into the hubs easily and placing them on top tap them in till the bottom cone seats. Has worked well so far but I need more tools.

[Dignity]

While we are at it is there any easy way to get them out...?..sometimes can be relatively easy and sometimes a b!tch..

Col, I just happen to have an offcut of C channel that the hub sits nicely on top with clearance underneath. Then working from above I use brickies Course chisel, not sure if thats the correct spelling but it is a narrow flat cold chisel for knocking out mortar from between bricks. This fits nicely in the grooves to knock the cones out. Usually I put a plastic bag in the bottom of the C channel and when the cones etc pop out I also will push the grease out with a rag. Lift the hub off and tie the bag off and no mess charlie.
Luckily I had several of those chisels from my fathers collection.

[NAGG]

I managed to pick up a drift set today - not easy to get after going to several places .

Unfortunately I had to dig a little deeper ($150) & buy a complete set - no mini kit available

These will make life a lot easier though

Chris

Drift set.jpg

[Noelm]

Getting the old outer gizmo out is the hard part, the test is simple, my cat trailer has got hydraulic brakes, and I made up a little kind of packer, so when the caliber is off, I put it between the pads and it all stays nice while I root around trying to replace the bearings, one tip, try to get hold of some surgical gloves, easy to work with and when your finished, your hands a nice and clean, I keep some in the car too.

[winston]

I use an old set of bearing cups to knock the new ones in. I ground the outside of the old cups so that they slip inside and out easily but with enough contact om the new cups. Works well. Cheers Winston.

[Noelm]

Yep, but you still have to get the old cups out, strangely enough, the cheap Chinese hubs have a kind of notch in them so you can get something on the cup to hammer it out, makes it a bit easier, reassembling is a breeze, unless you knock in a cup backwards......don't even ask me how I know that!

[Cobbo1]

I just run a bead of weld on the old cup, falls out by itself 9/10 times

[NAGG]

Getting the old outer gizmo out is the hard part, the test is simple, my cat trailer has got hydraulic brakes, and I made up a little kind of packer, so when the caliber is off, I put it between the pads and it all stays nice while I root around trying to replace the bearings, one tip, try to get hold of some surgical gloves, easy to work with and when your finished, your hands a nice and clean, I keep some in the car too.

Bought a 100pk of the black Rhino gloves from Bunnings ($20)

Mucking around with grease / degreaser / petrol makes most gloves fall apart - hence go with "Nitrile rubber" gloves ...... much better chemical resistance

Chris