Appreciate the advice mate.Sent from my CPH2069 using Ausfish mobile appOriginally Posted by catshark
Thanks for the advice mate.
I'd really like to get the job done myself. I don't have the money to pay someone and I'd love to learn and have a crack myself.
Not a pro by any means and know it's a massive job but I have been fixing other areas in the fibreglass over the last few months.IMG20210218184428.jpegIMG20210218172419.jpgIMG20210218172403.jpgIMG20210218172348.jpgIMG20210218172334.jpg
Sent from my CPH2069 using Ausfish mobile app
CT this transom is very straight forward, you cut the cap off, remove the wood, replace the core, glass it in, glass the cap back on glass the underside nothing more to it
There is nothing structually intimidating to it so long as its put back how its laid out now it will be fine
Whats that Rod Stewart song?...The first cut is the deepest!!
a couple of thoughts to add to the mix...either way will work ...just have a complete plan in your mind before the first cut.....and see how that works out!
1.the current outside fibreglass of the transom is pretty Vatican City.....Holy...its going to take a bit of work on its own to get a smooth finish ...so going in from the outside will allow you a good chance to make a good repair of it.....its a small area and looking at the work youve already done...shouldnt be all that difficult to get a finish.
2.Yes take the cap off it should allow you to drop in and properly fix the plywood transom????...just glueing and clamping layers of ply as you go is not considered great technique... make the ply insert properly and dry fit ,adjust etc before gluing is safer.If youre using polyester..a trick to ensure a good bond to the ply is to dilute the resin by 10% with styrene ,nasty stuff,on first coat over the ply this encourages penetration of the resin into the ply...once set up go ahead as normal..youll get a good bond.
The problem here is if u cut the outside skin andyour not entirely happy with thetransoms inside skin or u accidently much it up your going to have to follow through and cut out the splashwell leaving u two jobs to repair
Basically u know the transom skin is 100% sound so leave it and just go in from the top of the transom, do one job do it right and you'll have less work
Your fibreglass is the structure, the fairing is the astetics if u sand , fill, sand, fill than paint you'll have a good outcome
This is the sort of advice I’d be listening too . Matt
A bad days fishing has got to be better than any day at work......
Hello Garfield,
here's another alternative.
All you would need to do is plug up the holes and remove the cap and pour that Seacast stuff in.
I don't know anything about it, but if it is any good, a much simpler solution.
Sorry all didn't seem to load properly.
Look up Seacast on YouTube.
Maybe you could mix up your own brew with a bit of advice.
Gaz I tried to stay polite but you can't take the hint so here goes.
You are one of the last people who should be giving advice on a transom rebuild. You've had a go at a few things and finished none. You ignore piles of good advice on correct procedure. You use incorrect materials. Then you get correct materials and use them incorrectly. Most of what you've done has had to be re-done, and even then its questionable if the result is any good. We've got a few hundred pages of confirmation. I don't want to see Garfield take your advice at face value cause you speak like your well qualified only to find out you've lead him up the garden path.
Garfield,
I used Boatcraft Pacific epoxy and materials for my rebuild and found their before and after sales service excellent. They have a range of instructional literature as well. I would send them a bunch of photos and seek their advice. I had excellent success with their products, however have no experience with a halfpod style transom like yours. Mine was old school full flat back.
Cheers
I don't know that you need to commit to a transom rebuild at this point. Consensus in the last thread was that it bore further investigation IIRC, not that it needed a rebuild. Have you done a load test on it yet to see if it's sturdy?
Hi, I haven't really done any test except drill those holes. I'm still trying to work out what test or what I need to do to know for sure I need to do it or don't.
My outboard is off the transom at the moment too.Sent from my CPH2069 using Ausfish mobile app
Like someone said in the last thread, one of the bests tests for soundness is to tilt the outboard up (when mounted) and bounce on the end a bit. Make sure the hull doesn't move and check the transom for flex as you bounce. If you have bugger all flex then you just need to deal with sealing it up. If you have more than a few millimetres (enough that you can easily see it flexing) then it's toast and needs rebuilding.
I have no experience with repairing a transom but I'd be bolting the motor back on, lifting the leg (you should have a manual override on the tilt system) and checking for flex. If it passed that then I'd either call it good and focus on sealing it up, or drill a pattern of blind holes to check for rot elsewhere and then seal the entire rear of the transom up with fresh glass and gelcoat.
Again though - I have no specific experience. That's just how I'd approach it.
After all that u used epoxy? Your kind of skinning a walking living cat with this one as u degree my work over 3 years its untested so when i do test it and it doesnt fail how do u reeducate hundreds of people that have read your advice critcizim over 3 years and its wrong?
I think your bastardised english has proposed two questions.
Firstly, why did I use epoxy.
I chose epoxy as I wanted a longer pot life than I could get in a Qld summer using poly even with tropical catalysts. I realise the rest of the boat was poly but was prepared to accept the extra cost to get working time. There was also no downside in terms of performance to using epoxy.
Secondly, if and when you launch your project, will I revise my opinion.
In light of new evidence I will gladly revise my opinion. At this stage however I won't. You have completed nothing much less tested anything. Finish it, launch it and use it. If it holds up we can talk then. I'll even do it in your thread!
Thirdly, get this shit out of Garfields thread.
CT you may have shot your self in the foot on this one you recommended BoatCoat Epoxy that boat coat epoxy is a formular designed for plywood composite hulls not fibreglass hulls, whoops.... and epoxy on a pokyester hull is a no no so everyone has strung me up for using epoxy on my hull it ruins any futher repairs.. but you know it all mate..
Why Bote-Cote?
Bote-Cote is an epoxy system specially formulated to meet the needs of wooden boats and their builders. It is highly resistant to attack by water and other chemicals and solvents, and as an adhesive, it grips tenaciously to timber and other materials. In particular it is formulated to match the flex properties of timber, so that it is not brittle and will not crack away from the timber as the structure moves naturally. Its high solids formula provides an excellent moisture barrier, and its fast wetting and penetrating properties make it an ideal matrix for fibreglass and other synthetic fibres. It has a thixotropic agent in the formulation to help develop an adequate coating thickness (especially on vertical or sloping panels), the single most important factor in preventing moisture reaching the substrate.
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