Hi,
I have a Savage Avalon from the 70's that needs the floor redone. The stringers are also questionable. I am just wondering if I am able to rip the stringers out with the boat on the trailer? I have read that if it's on a bunk trailer then it is fine to do it on the trailer. Is this correct? Also, is the circled bracket in the image structural?
Cheers,
Nate.
Nate mine has been done on a 2 bunk trailer my main keel rollers clear my kerl by about 8-10mm so i figured this was perfect for me as i weigh 97kg the keel may touch the keel rollers whem in in the hull but by the timei glue stringersand jump out that 10mm flexis very very minor and any wet glue would just kind stay where it is
If u had the hull up very clear of any other support the hull may flop around
Just remember it's not going to be a weekend job, and it's not going to only cost a couple of hundred dollars, unless the boat has value to you, think long and hard about even starting.
awesome more boat builds 2021 is starting off with a bang
Yeah I was epecting it to cost atleast a couple of grand. There is another one for sale for 3 grand not too far away that looks in ok nick... but this one looked ok too till I put my foot through the floor... I wouldn't want to buy another on and end up in the same position.
I'm guessing this one is worth nothing now?
well you could maybe knock up some two b four supports under the stringers clamped from the trailer , or like me do one stringer a time , if not sure, as for the big gusset up front , id leave it alone i its good , must be a reason why they are there
You can sit down and calculate your basic cost measure the stringers total length you have 2 sides and a 1 top work out what your area of glassing will need to be
If u go polyester resin you could use double bias + chopped mat as a single layer to wet out (per layer) colan australia sell it, i wouldnt recommend ttying to make a combo of double bias and a layer of chopped mat its a handfull if u get them stitched together it will be a blessing to wet out
You can calculate your timber, cloth/chopped mat needed, a bag of glue powder,
The one thing i never calculated or tjought would be a big deal was acetone, paint rollers, paint trays, paint brushes, bags of fresh rags all throw away materials that i spent a pile on and im still needing more now
For instance i bought a 10 pack of 160mm rollers to fiberglass just the top side of my floor i think i have 3 rollers left and they cost like $25!!
Acetone i was buying in 1 litre bottles using 1/3rd a bottle one one set of rags i flew through bottles and bottles...
Your boat is small you'll likely over invest but u will have a seaworthy boat, if u go buy one off gumtree for 3k you may be buying whats on your hands right now
Empty it out, pressure clean it and if the stringers need it give them a hit with a flap disc in the angle grinder and then a layer of glass over them, chuck in a floor & go fishing.
Seriously there's guys on here that would knock it over like that on a weekend.
Another thought, do the clean out & flap disc then give to a guy with a chopper gun, I had a couple of seat boxes done and it cost bugger all, better than dealing with that messy fibreglass.
Apologies to the zealot purists out there.
I like your style Fed! But I think I'm just going to get rid of it. I just drilled a hole in the transom and while it wasn't wet, it certainly wasn't nice wood chips, seems very soft, so I think that's gone as well. On the bright side, I just saved myself a few grand! Thanks for your thoughts anyway guys.
Plywood is soft to drill in general its way softer than drilling solid timber, if the chips are light in colour and dry its likely a good transom
Say if the transom was wet at one point 10 yearsago andit had some way of drying over over that period the water will leach a darker colour thru the plywood like a dark orange or brown
You could hire a shipwright to check just your transom $200-$300? Could save u a $1000 in rebuilding the transom, that kind of money can push an old 15ft hull up over what the hull is worth
Thanks Gazza, I might do that. Anyone know of anyone in Hobart, or even better, Sorell?
The wood is dark anyway, and isn't plywood, atleast not in the keel stringer:
20210113_172150.jpg
I pulled the bung holes from the rear of the transom, and the wood is solid around the internals there.
That's old Maple/Meranti, very common in old boats, it looks dry though?
It's definately dry, but the drill "chips" were kind of powdery and soft, not like the type of chips you get drilling through pine for instance... this is from the transom:
20210119_171028.jpg
Pine is solid timber, plywood is laminated thin 1mm thick sheets glued between layers and pressed in a big metal jig
To me it looks like it's been wet and dried out, even good dry ply will leave nice curled shavings. Stringer replacement is a case of replace one by one or as has been suggested support the hull first as it's easy to get a twist in the hull if you don't.Originally Posted by nath2099
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