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Thread: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

  1. #1
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
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    Brisbane

    Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi all.

    I just collected a reverse chine HH V19C for refurbishment.
    I was in the right place at exactly the right time and beat over 20 guys in only 2 hours to the boat.
    It was owned by a young boat builder who had just started repairs, when he found his favourite boat - A 20' Bertram Bahia Mar.
    I guess to finance it, he immediately put the HH up on face book and I found it by chance within minutes and bought the boat sight unseen. Luckily, I was at the GC on holidays, and the boat was only 20 minutes away.
    Got it home on the day of lockdown in Brisbane.

    IMG_1050.jpg

    The trailer looks pretty good and wont take too much to get right.
    I think it will need electric/hydraulic brakes as it will most likely go over 2,000kg.

    The motor was a collection of antique Volvo stern drive parts and rusty crappy ancillaries, so I left them with the seller.

    The boat is sad, which I expected, but I was delighted to find that it was one of the very 1st of the reverse chine 19's.
    This is the same hull that won the Sydney to Newcastle offshore powerboat race in the mid 1960's.

    Also, the decals gave it away:
    IMG_1055.jpg IMG_1060.jpg IMG_1057.jpg

    The bird is actually a "Thunderbird" which is the logo for the formula boat company..
    The early HH's traded off their association with Formula, whose boat, the Formula 233 was built under license by HH

    The boat had some repairs earlier in its life, but even though they are still sound, the hull is hooked and hogged in numerous places, so I will strip out the stringers and straighten everything.
    The cabin looks pretty average too. So I'll pull it all apart and do it properly. All good fun!

    IMG_1058.jpg IMG_1059(Edited).jpg IMG_1061.jpg

    This web site wont accept portrait photos - they always get lain on their side, so I've made a mental note to only take landscape photos of the boat.

    I'll go a big-ish outboard (225hp or 250hp), maybe on a 600mm 3/4 hull extension or maybe on a 6" adjustable transom bracket.
    No decision as yet.

    Guys, please keep in mind that this is a rebuild thread, not a general discussion forum.

    Thanks for your understanding.

  2. #2

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    nice pick up , look forward to reading up on your progress,

  3. #3

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by giddyup58 View Post


    The motor was a collection of antique Volvo stern drive parts and rusty crappy ancillaries, so I left them with the seller..
    Very smart move!

    Remaining a cab boat or superstructure mods in the plan as well? Looking forward to the progress.

  4. #4

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hi Giddy. On with the show !!!!!!

    Had the pleasure of fishing out of that hull type many times. As you know they are a great sea boat and the one I fished from was powered with a 140hp 2 stroke Yamaha and cruised along. Top speed was 47 kn, very nice hull.

    All the best.

  5. #5

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    My hh v19 had a tower of power 150,was the biggest we could get in those days. AS Brett said they get along quite well with 140+ on But be carefull of how much weight you stick on the bum.(I also found trim tabs made it go much better).Have fun rebuilding,you will have a bloody good boat when finished.

  6. #6
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Apr 2014
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    Thread Starter

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I had one of these in the mid '90's. We turned an old V19R into a CC, custom built (not by me - I just helped pay for it - pre boat builder days), as a sports fishing boat for Moreton Bay, specifically to chase Longtail Tuna. Oddly enough, we named the boat "Longtail".

    IMG_3304.jpg IMG_3307.jpg

    The completed rig looked beaut, but I was so disappointed with the resultant lack of performance (the workmanship was perfect), that I sold my share out to my mate that co-funded it, and he still has it to this day.
    The problem was that I took the repairer a stripped out hulk (that was the basic limit of my ability back then), and engaged him to redo the transom, stringers and floor as a centre console with 450 litres in 2 tanks under the floor, and to fit one of his custom centre consoles.

    An old mate of mine - 35 years my senior and long since passed, told me to put a plank under it. He was an an old racer and had built many boats in the past. I recall going out in a 19' Huntsman he had converted into a side console that he'd planked, and he says he picked up 7knots and was not prone to exaggeration.

    I had the boat builders put a plank under her (see 2nd photo above) and I was expecting close to 50kts with the 225, but we barely hit high 30's with 1/2 tanks.

    Turned out that when the stringers were fitted, they didn't bother straightening anything, and they glassed a massive hook built into the hull. Short of ripping it apart again and re-doing the stringers properly, it would never perform to my satisfaction. They ducked and weaved by saying that it would sit up on the plank and the hook would have no effect. What nonsense!

    My mate replaced the old jumbo with a 175 4stroke Yammie and has never complained about its performance.

    So when I found this current boat, I didn't even think twice. With the skills I've acquired over the past 25 years, I know that I can get the hull straight and to make sure I do and don't cheat, I picked up this little beastie a couple of days ago:

    IMG_1097.jpg

    It's a late model 2 stroke Mercury 250 EFI. 8 hour round trip to get it from a delightful bloke who removed it from his boat to make way for a new 350hp Suzi 4 stroke!

    So my poor long suffering mate Cyril has another one of my "finds" to bring back to "as close as is possible to new".
    He's a marine engine genius. He can do it...

    Yesterday, I pulled the stb'd outer stringer box out, removed the bulkhead and I started stripping the cabin. The timbers were not knackered, but back in the day, they didn't glass both sides of timber and in most cases, didn't even resin coat, so now, probably 50 years later (I reckon this jigger was built late 60's or very early 70's), the timber is sad. And smelly. And now, gone...

    IMG_1090.jpg IMG_1093.jpg IMG_1092.jpg

    A past owner had converted the footwell in the cabin into a built in ice box, which took a bit to get rid of. Saturated green refrigeration foam everywhere. All gone, as will the rest of the rubbish, hopefully soon.

    I intend to keep the boat as a half cab. I just love the shape of the V19C's and I don't mind a LLD in a nice clean cabin.
    I may lift the floor to the height of the outer chines so I don't have to be on tip toes to see over the screen and so the fuel tank can be made bigger.

    But that's a way off yet.

    Getting the hull straight is the current objective, so stop chatting and just go do it.

    More pic's, hopefully soon.

  7. #7
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Going to be a nice boat when you are done...

    How do you hold the hull straight and in shape when putting in the new stringers and bulkheads...Do you have to make up some frames or a jig..?

    What sort of time frame have you allowed yourself..?

  8. #8
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by disorderly View Post
    Going to be a nice boat when you are done...

    How do you hold the hull straight and in shape when putting in the new stringers and bulkheads...Do you have to make up some frames or a jig..?

    What sort of time frame have you allowed yourself..?
    Have a look at my Haines 1600SO rebuild hereabouts. It's a bit time consuming on the bigger boat, but an imperfect hull is not worth owning, or spending hundreds of hours working on.

    Time frame? I'm hoping it can be done relatively quickly - say 4 months, but we are about to start house reno's, which will probably throw my critical path out the window.
    I'm champing at the bit to get it done, because for once, I have everything here. Boat/motor /trailer.

  9. #9
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Today's efforts:

    This mornings horror show:
    IMG_1089.jpg Front cabin sort of intact.

    4 hours later:
    IMG_1112.jpg The big bits have been thrown overboard. That rubbish in the middle, is previous repair attempt removed in sheets by lump hammer, chisel, breaker bar and 2mm cutting disc.

    15minutes later again:
    IMG_1113.jpg Rubbish bits gone, hosed out. No sense in sitting in itchies. Hosing out is ideal way to clean work place...

    The problem I'm having with this particular build, is that someone in the (possibly) long line of owners before me, has replaced the front half of the stringers and timberwork, and has been a bit lazy.

    The dark green glass work is factory and the sickly brown is the repair (?) work. I have had to remove a lot of the repair work because it wasn't done properly. The original stringers were cut down flush as possible and the new (undersize) stringers were placed next to the original rotten stubs and glassed in. It seems the surface wasn't prepped correctly, as the adhesion was very hit and miss, and the glass used was worthless choppy. Choppy has absolutely no strength and is used only as a tie layer for knitted fabrics. Its like someone who cant tie knots - Tie lots. If you can't glass, use lots of choppy instead.
    When I'm done, all of the previous effort will have been removed, but only 1 stringer at a time, or else it will be very hard to get the shape of the boat back.

    So, rather than get kicked out of the neighbourhood, I have been removing the misguided effort with a chisel and a breaker bar, rather than a grinder. Heavy going, but its happening. Quite possibly faster than grinding too.

    Almost ready to start straightening chines and hull side. Will probably need to have a decent grinding session 1st. Ah well, it's just part of the process I guess...

  10. #10

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Hey Giddy u can makeshift a poormans dust vacuum 200mm centrifugal fan a length of pickup ducting and a big dust bag on the other side, she'll suck that dust alright...

    I though i read your hull was hooked and hogged, if your going to do one stringer at at time how will u be pulling and pushing the hull straight?

  11. #11
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Apr 2014
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    I though i read your hull was hooked and hogged, if your going to do one stringer at at time how will u be pulling and pushing the hull straight?
    See Haines 1600SO thread.

  12. #12
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2006au View Post
    <br>
    I though i read your hull was hooked and hogged, if your going to do one stringer at at time how will u be pulling and pushing the hull straight?
    See post #8 above.

  13. #13
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I had a bit of time yesterday and decided to have a look at the twisted port side chine and hook in the hull.

    1st order of business was to get the boat onto the floor so I could work more comfortably.

    IMG_1116.jpg IMG_1117.jpg IMG_1124.jpg

    The chine twist and topside hollow came out pretty easily with a few strategically placed braces, and the hook in the outer hull came out with tom-ing down from the brace.

    There was a 6mm suck in the last 400mm of the chine. Thankfully, it didn't take too much to get it out.
    IMG_1121.jpg

    Working port side 1st. Get the chine and the topside into shape, then simply tom down to get hollow out of hull:
    IMG_1122.jpg

    Brace off port side. Can't straighten both at once:
    IMG_1123.jpg

    Next, I'm thinking I will cut and glass in a few gussets to hold the shape.
    Depends on whether or not I reuse the box section that went from outer spray chine/floor intersect to side of hull (topside).

    I'll see if I can have a look at that over the week end and get something permanent in, and a make a decision on floor height.
    I can either put the floor on from 1st inner chine to the other, or from outer spray chines. It should lift floor 75mm or so, which will equate to a significant increase in fuel capacity.

    More soon.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14

    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    I couldn't find it in any of your previous rebuild threads - would you mind sharing the layup schedule you use for floors, both underside and upper deck? Also attachment method to the stringers - just peanut butter or screwed down as well?

    Looking forward to seeing where this build goes

  15. #15
    Ausfish Silver Member
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    Re: Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Mopheus View Post
    - would you mind sharing the layup schedule you use for floors, both underside and upper deck? Also attachment method to the stringers - just peanut butter or screwed down as well?
    Hi Morpheus.

    Under floor - 1 laminate of 225 to 400gsm Choppy with poly resin. Have the floor scribed and cut to size and fitting perfectly. If more than 1 piece of ply, use either butt straps or just hold it together with glass (underside 1st).
    Be really careful when turning it over so as not to put any strain on the join. It will delaminate instantly if you do. To get the best adhesion from the poly, get a hand saw and cross hatch score the ply (I usually use 1/2" marine ply) so as to give a good mechanical bond. You are glassing the underside of the floor to both strengthen the ply (which is really doubtful, as CSM has basically no strength at all) and to waterproof the timber.

    Top of floor - this is a bit harder.
    1st, glue the floor down. Epoxy mixed with aerosil makes the best glue. Get it to the thickness where there is no slump and liberally apply it to the top of the stringers. Your stringers should all be dead level and true and clean. No need to glass over the top of the stringer, as it is being sealed by the epoxy. Quick grind/sand/acetone wipe under floor where it will engage the stringers (no shiny poly please) Secure the floor using as few fastenings as possible. A few strategically placed besser blocks work well... Best to keep off the floor until the epoxy has set.

    Next, cove the floor to hull join with poly bog and try to get it fair. When it goes off quick scuff and wipe down with acetone, make sure the ply floor has been scored and blown off, and lay 225 (or so) choppy followed by 450 double bias (Try to get the glass at least 75mm onto the hull), followed by peel ply - polyseter suit lining material. . It does not stick to the poly, helps fill all the weave, pulls out excessive resin and protects the surface until you are ready to finish the floor with paint/teak/gelcoat - whatever.
    Make sure you have fitted doublers under the floor to carry seat bases if necessary.

    IMG_3631.jpgIMG_3642.jpgIMG_3920.jpg

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