Reply With QuoteAgree.Originally Posted by disorderly
On all aspects.
Mostly the patience and skills.
But, 100% keen to see the sea trials.
Hey Col.
New conventional wisdom is get a bit of heat into the rubber then a little stretch...
I may grab some liquid nails, let it set off, then throw it in a bucket of water for a couple of days.
Agree.
On all aspects.
Mostly the patience and skills.
But, 100% keen to see the sea trials.
When my wife calls, tell her I'm in "Ah Me Ting"
Ah Me Ting = 2019 Quintrex 420 Renegade (Tohatsu 50hp 2 Stroke)
Hi all.
I haven't managed to get any where near as far as I'd have liked in the last couple of months.
When I left off in mid February, I'd just done the 1st highbuild on the cabin and cockpit.
But life got in the way, together with crappy weather, an interstate holiday and bloody Covid, and what should have taken a few days has taken near 2 months.
So, I guide coated the highbuild and sanded it off with 320 grit.
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But I found lots of defects that needed further treatment, so I got the entry, fore cabin and anchor hatches off and prepped...
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to repair structural damage on the 2 cabin hatches.
While I was at it, I added a bit more glass (Bassalt actually) to the seat buckets to stop them flexing too much:
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I then applied another couple coats of highbuild where needed:
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So, a couple of days to dry properly, then another wet sand with 320 - 400 and it should be right to top coat.
I'll let you know how that goes...
And the answer is... Not so well.
Took a long time to get the old girl sanded, due to the incessant rain.
Eventually, it looked like all systems go.
The boat was sanded, blue skies with 20% chance of rain - Go for it!
By the time the boat was masked, prep washed and the paint was mixed and everything good to go, it was 11.30am.
Painted the anchor well hatch 1st to dial the gun in - perfect...
On to the cabin - 1st coat, no complaints. An hour later, 2nd coat - looking good!
It's now 1.30pm, plenty of time for the paint to dry. Couple of bugs in the paint, but they'll cut out, no worries.
Cleaned the gun, put everything away, admired my handy work and took a couple of photos. Life is pretty darn good...
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I got up the next morning, and to my absolute horror, I found that the paint on all horizontal surfaces had blushed, which cannot be repaired.
So I have to sand it all down again and paint , again.
This time, I'll try to get it into a booth.
Loaded it onto its trailer in anticipation of the move...
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I'll let you know how attempt 2 works out. All I need now is a decent window of good weather...
HI
Read your most recent post and as I know nothing about the technicalities I did a search.
Is this applicable or only good for metal ?
Anyhoo enjoying your work and looking forward to the next stage.
Cheers
Chimo
What could go wrong.......................
This wet weather would be giving you lots of trouble, I've got a bit to do on my boat snd haven't even bothered to start preparing it for paint, mind you I haven't done it for decades so probably screw it up. Giddy are you hiring a spray booth?
Chimo, pity they didn't take that ding out in the front of the bonnet, kept looking at it and lost my concentration.
Yes I saw that too.!
What could go wrong.......................
ha ha yes. There’s another on the left side. Black paint they show everything.
Democracy: Simply a system that allows the 51% to steal from the other 49%.
Hey mate- quick question, did you use Jotun Penguard HB as your HB primer? if so, would love to pick your brain on time between coats ...
Hi all.
I had a bit of a sulk after ruining the last paint job, so I thought to let a mate with a huge spray booth look aftter it, but he was booked out for weeks.
I decided to drop the boat off the trailer and prep it, again:
Gotta love wet sanding in the middle of winter...
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As I had just enough paint left over to put on another coat, I decided to give it another go.
Long story short, it worked out really well:
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I was pretty happy with that, so I decided to get a push on with finishing.
First thing, was to get the trailer better suited to the boat.
You may recall from past experiences that I'm not a total fan of multi rollert trailers, so this time I decided to adapt a couple of decent sized bunks on either side of the keel rollers:
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Still needs a bit of fetteling, but confidence is high that it will work well.
I replaced all rusted members, fitted a new braking system and modified the draw bar to sit the coupling at the right height for the tow ball.
Next, it was time to fit the motor.
It was never supposed to be bolted to the transom; it always intended to run a clear water extension of at least 6", being either a non adjustable bracket or a Jacking Plate.
I went with a Bob's machine shop 6" extension bracket with 1.5" of built in lift.
To fit it, I had to put an inspection port into the pod to access the bottom bolts:
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Next, the bracket was fitted with the requisite 1/2" SS hardware:
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Then on with the motor:
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It even tilts sufficiently to give plenty of clearance. We just have to set the tilt limit to suit: (The badly applied chine tape is there for ideas)
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I had a Seastar "tournament" bullhorn ram for this project, however after spending well over an hour setting it up, I found that the motor could not be tilted at all, as the ram was directly above the top of the transom. Didn't see that one coming. I could get out of it by fitting a 4" setback jacking plate, which will move the ram 2" forward and also allow me to literally jack the motor up another 4.5" from where it is now, but that's a big investment.
I then tried a standard Seastar bullhorn ram, and after a bit of persuasion, it seems to work fine.
Pitty, as the tournament is a serious bit of kit, but I'm not certain that it's necessary.
If it is, I'll go to plan B and get a Jacking plate, in which case a set of 6" rear set brackets will be put up for sale...
I'll hopefully get some gunnel rubber tomorrow and come up with some way of fitting it to the old girl. These reverse chine 19's are so old, they pre-date a flanged hull/deck joint, so there is actually nowhere to attach the rubber.
I did a bit of a cleanup behind the dashboard modification so that it's neat and tidy, so I should be able to get the steering fitted up soon, quickly followed by the hand controller and gauge. Yes, only 1. It's a 2012 model Mercury, so it has a smartcraft tacho, which has everything needed at the press of a button. The smartcraft information can also be routed to the sounder/plotter via NMEA 2000, so it should be a very uncomplicated dash.
More soon...
Recoat when it tacks off - put thumb onto paint and if no paint stays on thumb, good to go. You can go wet on wet, but tacking off lets you load it up more.
Hi all.
Had a bit of time to play with the Haines over the last few days, and I adressed the gunwhale issue.
The problem with these very old reverse chine models, is that they were built before any fiberglass boat builder thought to put a flange around the top of the hull mould and the same again around the bottom of the deck/cabin mould, and to join them on that flange. The flange is then the perfect place to affix a nice thick rubber gunwhale.
I refused to re-apply the old style alloy with tiny rubber infill gunnel, as the 1st time it comes into contact with... anything, it is dented and ruined.
The answer was to make my own flange, and to that extent, I pop rivited a 12mm x 20mm x3mm alloy flange around the perimeter of the boat:
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It took a bit single handed (4 x 3m pieces), but eventually I was pretty happy that it was fair.
The idea was then to load the flange up, top and bottom, with sika and to glue the rubber to it.
Here's a section to give the idea:
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Dove in this morning with the assist of son #2, and we coiled the 12m rubber into a clean drum, put a cardboard lid on it, opened a hole in the top to accept the hot air gun, and he monitored the heating of the rubber to make it sit straight and have a touch of stretch, while I loaded the flange with adhesive.
It all went well, which is always a worry, but the end result was excellent:
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I managed to pull the perspex out of the undamaged side window frames, which frames were then cleaned. I'll drop the perspex off to get new ones cut and the frames to get re-anodised.
Next job will be non skid on the deck. Thinking I'll stick with gray.
More soon, hopefully.
Hi all.
Although the weather wasn't perfect, I got the Haines masked up for the non-skid:
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I chose a mid grey as the non skid colour and added Awlgrip beads after the 1st coat, followed by 2 further coats of paint.
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I had originally intended to lay a teak deck on the duckboard, but out of sheer laziness, I non-skidded that too.
Pretty happy with the result:
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Ordered the new model designation stickers on-line and I'll get a signwriter to fit the chine tape. I'm never 100% happy with my results, and the boat has come up so well that I don't want to ruin the aesthetic with a wobble in a line... I,m thinking black, but the reverse of what can be seen in the last photo above. I think small stripe down, wide one up...
Window frames will go to anodisers on Monday and I'll get the new perspex cut.
The windscreen, apart from needing new perspex, is most likely not economically repairable, so I'll see about a new screen.
Ol' mate at Australian Marine Windows will probably get the call...
Next job is probably to finish off behind the dash so I can start permenantly mounting "stuff".
The helm unit needs to be bolted in and the electrics begun.
The hydraulic steering needs to be connected and bled.
Battery leads and kill switch need some thought, as does battery selection, position and mounting.
Fuel tank install and plumbing.
Hand control needs to be affixed properly and all of the cables and wires run to the motor.
And the trailer need a bit more engineering and lights fitted and wired.
Still plenty to do...
You do beautiful work thanks for sharing .Matt
A bad days fishing has got to be better than any day at work......
Yeah she is coming up nice...its certainly impressive work..
The pod and duckboard just makes so much difference to the usability of the boat plus looking made for it...are you going to fit a fold-up ladder..?
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