Haines Hunter V19C rebuild

[DATCOL]

Brilliant rebuild

[giddyup58]

Yeah she is coming up nice...its certainly impressive work..

The pod and duckboard just makes so much difference to the usability of the boat plus looking made for it...are you going to fit a fold-up ladder..?

Hi Dis.

I hadn't actually thought about it, but now that I am, the duckboard is going to be pretty close to the water, so a "ladder" may not be needed.
There doesn't seem to be any place to mount one either.
I'm thinking a couple of strategically placed hand holds should be enough - perhaps one horizontally on the duckboard and another vertically on the transom...

I'll let you know.

[Dignity]

Hi Dis.

I hadn't actually thought about it, but now that I am, the duckboard is going to be pretty close to the water, so a "ladder" may not be needed.
There doesn't seem to be any place to mount one either.
I'm thinking a couple of strategically placed hand holds should be enough - perhaps one horizontally on the duckboard and another vertically on the transom...

I'll let you know.

As someone who due to misadventure had to try and climb aboard with just some hand holds, put a ladder in. I have one that folds up and sits on the duckboard.
Edit, my misadventure it is a long story, it didn't include alcohol etc. but I soon put in the ladder, exhaustion makes it very hard to even put your foot on the duckboard and pull yourself up.

[disorderly]

Hi Dis.

I hadn't actually thought about it, but now that I am, the duckboard is going to be pretty close to the water, so a "ladder" may not be needed.
There doesn't seem to be any place to mount one either.
I'm thinking a couple of strategically placed hand holds should be enough - perhaps one horizontally on the duckboard and another vertically on the transom...

I'll let you know.

Even with the deck at water level, I doubt I could pull my 53yr old, 100kg ass up into the boat without the ladder...

My ladder comes down at the top of the ramp after a trip and stays down till we are pulling away from the pontoon next trip....its great to just be able to walk up onto the boat at home and the servo and ramp...i also put it down if we are anchoring for the night and often while fishing so i can walk through to wash a fish or take a leak...also when disembarking at a beach or island etc..

Well worth considering if only from the safety perspective like Sam mentions...



boat doggies2.jpg

As someone who due to misadventure had to try and climb aboard with just some hand holds, put a ladder in. I have one that folds up and sits on the duckboard.
Edit, my misadventure it is a long story, it didn't include alcohol etc. but I soon put in the ladder, exhaustion makes it very hard to even put your foot on the duckboard and pull yourself up.

I'd love to hear the story some time Sam ...a few years back an older fella up here in FNQ fell overboard while casting for Barra in one of the rivers while solo fishing and due to panic about crocs quickly exhausted himself and couldnt climb back into the boat...all he could do was hang onto the transom in shock whilst the boat drifted along with the tidal flow till there was a break in the mangroves where he could swim ashore.

[giddyup58]

Hi All.

Looks like I'm putting on a ladder.
It's sometimes difficult to remember that I'm not 25 anymore and that this poor old body now has... limitations...

Could someone kindly start a "boarding ladder" thread with lovely photos? I'd really like to keep this a to the point build thread, but I'm keen to see what you guys have come up with.
My big boat has a ladder built into the duckboard, but the HH duckboard was not designed for it and it will have to lay on top of the deck, which I imagine woulkd be kind of messy.
Perhaps an "L" shaped ladder that is affixed on the mid-line of the duckboard deck, can sit nicely in the water and when flipped up, could stow vertically against the transom...
That wouldn't be too cumbersom and should be pretty easy to fabricate.
Probably one on the market already...

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

I went to drop off the side window surrounds on Tuesday for re-anodising, but they are 4 weeks before they could start, so I took my bat and ball and went home.

The reason that I was intent on using the pro's to make me a new windscreen, was that none of the screws in the original wanted to budge during my initial half hearted attempt, and it just looked "too hard" and too far gone...
When I realised that the windscreen was going to be well on the high side of $1,000 I decided to have a proper go at getting it apart, so I went and got a new gas cylinder for the flame thrower and picked up a couple new screw drivers with fresh heads.

Low and behold, the screws began coming out and when confronted with 3 x nasties that refused to budge, I just drilled them out.

Check out the condition of the alloy top rails - 52 odd years of weathering dissimilar metals has chewed large holes in the alloy:

IMG_3011.jpg IMG_3013.jpg

But it is fixable.

I got the 4 pieces of the windscreen perspex out intact, and dropped them down to the plastics guys. They quoted $275 (including side cabin perspex) for the lot, including the rebating where necessary on good quality marine perspex with a very faint green tint.

Next, a visit to the paint suppliers, where they mixed me up some clear over base 2 pac about the same colour as clear anodising.

Then , I began cleaning/degreasing the 16 individual pieces of frame, drilling out and all rotten screws and press studs, cleaning away all built up calcium deposits, die grinding all corroded areas back to clean alloy and then wet sanding. Fiddely work, but well worthwhile. Apart from the corrosion holes, they were definately useable, so I mixed up some epoxy glue and filled all the holes, apart from those necessary to reassemble.

And that's where I'm upto. The epoxy will be dry tomorrow and I will sand it up and see how it looks.
If it's nice and fair, etch prime and paint.
I know 2 pack works well on previously anodised window frames, as I did that on the Seafarer 17 I restored on here some years ago, and which my son still has. The screen frames look as good as the day I fitted them...

More soon...

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

The screen rebuild has gone pretty good.

After the epoxy dried, all the frames were rubbed back, hit with highbuild (acrylic from a can), wet sanded with 400 and re-etch primed
First one to get the treatment:
IMG_3023.jpg IMG_3024.jpg

All done:
IMG_3026.jpg IMG_3027.jpg

The finish was etch prime, but I ran out of time to paint.

I got some silver base coat from my friendly paint supplier, which I sprayed the next morning, followed by 6 coats of clear:
IMG_3028.jpg IMG_3029.jpg

Pretty happy with those results, so left them overnight to cure 100% and set about fitting them the next morning after a trip to Alfab (the original window suppliers to HH since their inception), to collect sufficient window rubber to fit the non-opening side windows to the frames:
IMG_3043.jpg IMG_3045.jpg

It took a fair bit of work to put the new screens into the refurbished frames, as the perspex guys didn't set up their router correctly from the get-go on the 1st piece (port screen), so I had to muck about with sandpaper and bespoke sanding blocks to get the rebates right on that piece.
The side windows needed a bead of clear silicone on the inside contact area with the frame and then the rubber moulding on the outside. Bit fiddley, but they worked out really well.
The side and front screens were fairly easy, once the rebate was fixed on the port screen, and better fastenings were used to hold the frames together.

Fitting into the boat was time consuming, as the side windows needed sikaflex under the flange to guarantee that they would be waterproof, so any gaps between the frame and the body of the cabin needed to be filled. Messy, but Turps to the rescue and they were looking beaut in no time.

The screen frames were easy, once I fitted a side screen to act as anchor for the front screens. The front and side screens have flanges which secure them together, as do the front screens where they join. So I fitted the port side screen securely, slotted in the port front screen, which was supported by the side screen, followed by the Stb'd screen (supported by the port screen), then securely fitted the Stb'd side screen, which had to go on last to engage the flanges.

Anyway, despite the essay above, it was all a bit of fun, saved around a grand, actually cost under $400.00 ($325 for rebated "sea blue" perspex, plus silicone, sika, some etch prime and 200ml of silver paint) and I think it looks fabulous, but maybe I'm biased...

IMG_3047.jpg IMG_3048.jpg

IMG_3049.jpg IMG_3050.jpg

Now to get serious about finishing the cockpit, or cabin, or rigging, or electrics...

Anyhoo, I'll go and do something.

More soon...

[bluefin59]

Beautiful tradesman like work mate . Matt

[stevej]

nice finish on the glass work

keeping the motivation to see it through is tough but looks like you getting towards the end

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

You may recall that I fitted a 6" set-back bracket to the transom, but it's design severely intefered with the steering ram I wanted to use, and wasn't high enough to allow the engine cowl to clear the "flat back" transom treatment.
IMG_2964.jpg IMG_2965.jpg

BLA recently had a 20% off sale, and in a "red haze" moment, I ordered a Seastar 6" hyd/elec jacking plate, which I fitted today:
IMG_3058.jpg

Quite easy to fit, seems to be well engineered and put together and the electrics appear idiot proof to the degree that I had it operating in a matter of minutes:

This picture shows the jacking plate at full extension (6"), and the motor tilted to the limit of it's travel and the trailing leg engaged. It now clears the back deck by an easy 75mm or so.
IMG_3060.jpg

In the full down position, the cav. plate is about 2" above the bottom of the hull extension.
Conventional wisdom is that for every 12" of setback, the motor should be lifted 3", so we should be looking at 1.5" lift here.

I wasn't aware from anything that I had read up on about this brand, that it has a static 2" height increase of the motor. ie. when the jack plate is mounted, the motor bolts on to the jacking plate 2" higher.
I'm a bit concerned that the static height may be too high...
Hopefully, it won't cause a problem as I recall that the Mustang 24 I rebuilt had a 300 long clear water pod which necessitated a 5" lift of the motor. I had to convert the 30" 300hp Suzi to a 25" to get the height right. I lost count of the number of times that we dragged out the crane and lifted the motor, trying to find the "sweet spot".
If the same is true on the Haines, I'm laughing.
If not, it's not that big a deal to remake the transom a little bit lower.

Fully up:
IMG_3062.jpg

Fully down:
IMG_3064.jpg

We'll find out soon enough. I'm just glad that adjustments can be made effortlessly, even whilst underway, with no mucking about with engine cranes or 3/4" incremental adjustments...

I had a bit of time spare, so I fitted the HH stickers, and applied the chine tape.

I'm pretty happy with the results:
IMG_3069.jpg IMG_3070.jpg

The new trim tabs have turned up too, so they'll be going on soon.

I had cause to start on the cockpit fit out, and I've started with side pocket fronts and purpose made battery and oil tank (2 stroke remember) enclosures.
As a couple of old sea-dogs hereabouts have suggested, it would be nice to cover in the area on both sides next to the drivers and passenger's seats and fit in lockable boxes.
I tried it, but it made the cockpit too tight, so I've just gone for shelves. Infact, in the last photo above, the actual test panel can be seen behind the drivers seat. But, as I said, it didn't work... Which is unfortunate.

More soon.

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

I've been plugging away at the little Haines, but not much to show for it.

The sidepockets evolved to the point where I needed to glass all the new additions and that took ages. I shouldn't complain, because it's pretty easy and enjoyable work.

Here's a couple photos:

This is how I decided to do the side pockets.
IMG_3076.jpg
Both sides are the same, and since the photo, the shelves have been ground and glassed to the hull and the pocket uprights have been glassed on both sides, waiting fitment.
I think I'll upholster the fronts of the side pockets and maybe fit an alloy channel on thge top edge to protect the vinyl.

The doors were fitted to waterproof (splash proof) the rear compartments, where I will fit the battery and oil bottle.
It's actually a bit harder than it looks, as the doors aren't just flat faced. It's sort of clear in the last photo. Also, the door had to open where I have put the hinges to give enough of an opening to fit the battery. But it all worked out in the end.
I'm thinking battery and oil bottle on port side, and stb'd side will be kept free for electrical connections, battery switch, fuel filter, primer bulb, and a place to roll up the excess length of engine harness and maybe shift and throttle cables, but I'm more inclined to just fit the correct sized new ones.
IMG_3078.jpg IMG_3080.jpg IMG_3082.jpg

I then spent hours making sure everything was glassed in place (shelves as mentioned before), and I found a few problems that need attention.

The aft bulkhead (at the end of the tank enclosure), was looking a bit water damaged from being left in the open for so long, so I removed the damaged part and fitted a ring frame:
IMG_3088.jpg IMG_3089.jpg


If it's not raining tomorrow, flowcoat?

[Dignity]

Hi all.

I've been plugging away at the little Haines, but not much to show for it.

The sidepockets evolved to the point where I needed to glass all the new additions and that took ages. I shouldn't complain, because it's pretty easy and enjoyable work.

Here's a couple photos:

This is how I decided to do the side pockets.
IMG_3076.jpg
Both sides are the same, and since the photo, the shelves have been ground and glassed to the hull and the pocket uprights have been glassed on both sides, waiting fitment.
I think I'll upholster the fronts of the side pockets and maybe fit an alloy channel on thge top edge to protect the vinyl.

The doors were fitted to waterproof (splash proof) the rear compartments, where I will fit the battery and oil bottle.
It's actually a bit harder than it looks, as the doors aren't just flat faced. It's sort of clear in the last photo. Also, the door had to open where I have put the hinges to give enough of an opening to fit the battery. But it all worked out in the end.
I'm thinking battery and oil bottle on port side, and stb'd side will be kept free for electrical connections, battery switch, fuel filter, primer bulb, and a place to roll up the excess length of engine harness and maybe shift and throttle cables, but I'm more inclined to just fit the correct sized new ones.
IMG_3078.jpg IMG_3080.jpg IMG_3082.jpg

I then spent hours making sure everything was glassed in place (shelves as mentioned before), and I found a few problems that need attention.

The aft bulkhead (at the end of the tank enclosure), was looking a bit water damaged from being left in the open for so long, so I removed the damaged part and fitted a ring frame:
IMG_3088.jpg IMG_3089.jpg


If it's not raining tomorrow, flowcoat?

You should be out fishing tomorrow. I do love your work and look forwardtoseeing it finished.

I'm still trying to work out how to paint the narrow strip on my boat, not having a lot of room to do it.

[ranmar850]

Good thread. On the subject of the ladder, my swim platform on the Reefrunner is close to the water, but it is still hard to drag yourself up, even with an exttra handrail fitted by myself. Don't go the type that folds on top, they are a royal PITA, you are always treading/tripping over them. You want a clear surface on them to get full value. Get the type that telescopes out and down from underneath. I'll get a photo of mine tomorrow if I remember.

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

When we left off, I was ready to flowcoat.

Glad to report that it went quite well, but for some reason, I don't seem able to post pictures.

[giddyup58]

Hi again.

So, before I could flowcoat, there was still a little glassing to do.
The ringframe had to be done and I had to glass in a pad at the very aft end of the original hull, to mount a bilge pump and float switch.
IMG_3093.jpg IMG_3095.jpg

Lots and lots of prep work to existing glass work, feathering edges and sanding out "hairy" spots.

I also chose to glass the hull to deck joint again, as I found it to be delaminating in areas. No point getting lazy, because it will be obvious when flowcoated...

So the light grey flowcoat went on well. 4" brush, working quickly, loaded brush - beaut result.
I coated all of the insides of the cockpit sides of the boat, inside the 2 x cupboards at the back, on top of and under the shelves and 50mm onto the floor and all the bilge areas.
IMG_3098.jpg

As I was in the mood, I fitted the tank lid (600mm wide up the centre of the cockpit) and decided to close up the gaps I had given it to cater for trimming the hatch(s) with alloy.
There was a 10mm gap the length of the hatch that needed to be filled. The easiest way was to mask the side edge and slightly under and over the tank hatch/floor so nothing would stick to it, the fill the gap with thickened epoxy glue.
You can see the strip in the photo I managed to load below. It's on the port side of the hatch, running the length of the cockpit.
The glossy black strip outboard adjoining the epoxy, is where I stripped off some peel ply so as to keep the levels perfect. The black is the "Basalt' Fiberglass replacement I used.
IMG_3113.jpg


I got away from the alloy framing idea which I have used in the past, as it is quite time consuming to do and is a point of potential rot around the screws.
I have 2 rolls of that cheap EVA foam decking that I didn't use on another project, so I thought I'd have a play with it here.
It's not quite wide enough to cover the complete floor (width wise), so that's why I flowcoated a 50mm boarder under the side shelves.

Seeing everything had been flowcoated and the tank lid was fitted perfectly, I decided to permenantly fit the tank.
I used expanding closed cell foam under each corner to lift the tank slightly off the floor and to rigidly hold it in place, but before that was done, I spent hours epoxy coating all of the end grains - edges of floors, shelves, side pocket uprights, limber holes etc. Everything got 3 good heavy coats.
IMG_3109.jpg

I cut out a bulkhead to close off and seal the tank enclosure, flowcoated it on both sides and, as I wanted it to be removeable, fixed it in position with 3mm alloy 20x20 angle. I will sikaflex the perimeter of the bulkhead and screwed it to the brackets. The hatch will be screwed down as well, but I have to wire in the fuel gauge float 1st.

IMG_3110.jpg


The flowcoat still has to be speckled.
IMG_3112.jpg

I'm pretty sure that I'll vinyl cover the side popckets, but I'll have to wait for my staples to turn up from USA. I bought a 71 series stapler quite some time ago and recently ran out of staples and to my surprise, found basically no one carries 71 series SS staples!

So I'll just have to wait.

But there's plenty to go on with.

More soon...