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Thread: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

  1. #1
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    I have been using these 3 pin plugs for joining my 36v MG trolling motor to the battery via a resettable 50 amp circuit breaker..

    Last trip i had a problem where I saw smoke coming from the plug a couple of hours after we were home (usually I flick the circuit breaker off once finished using the leccy for the day but forgot )..

    Anyway the plug melted .

    I am about to replace it and the guys at the shop tell me my mistake was that I should have tinned the ends of the 6mm multistrand wires before putting them into the plug which has 2 small flat plates which tighten against the wire when screwed tight...


    My question is do I tin the ends of the mutlistrand wire while its round or would I be better off flattening the ends with pliers prior to soldering...?

    baxter plug.jpg

  2. #2

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    I would just leave the wires as a round bundle.

    The golden rule with anything electrical, is that you must keep the smoke in the box. If you allow the smoke to escape, it will no longer work.

    Hope everything works with the new plug.

  3. #3

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    I had problems with those plugs and just swapped them over to Anderson plugs. Been fine since.

  4. #4

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Quote Originally Posted by gunna View Post
    I had problems with those plugs and just swapped them over to Anderson plugs. Been fine since.
    Same here, switched to Anderson plugs and no problems since.

  5. #5

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Is that similar to the MK plug. I'm not sure using solder will necessarily help as it sounds like the twisting action required has caused the strands to break which would still occur with solder, maybe not as much. There should have been a grommet where the cable entered the plug, was it omitted as this would have contributed to the problem.
    I've also gone to Anderson plugs but they also have their own issues. Cheap knock off versions aren't sun proof and the tinning on the prongs are very thin. I do use dielectric grease on mine as corrosion of them can cause high resistance.

  6. #6
    Ausfish Platinum Member
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    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    I tend to disagree with those blokes who told you your mistake was not "tinning" the ends of the wire first, depending on the actual type of terminal. Fine multi strand is a bit of a challenge to terminate well for higher-current application in DC. If they are flat-plate type terminators which crush the strands out without actually applying a screw directly to the strands, you need to tighten , give the conductors a good shake, tighten again. Otherwise the strands can "settle", and you end up with a hot joint. Tinning does not help in this situation--the joint will have less contact area due to the lack of compressibility due to the tinning. You probably realise this already, but hot joints are self-perpetuating ---high resistance makes the joint hot, as it heats the resistance gets higher, vicious circle which can really accelerate past a certain point and burn things down. If it is the circular type which relies on a screw bearing down directly on the strands, then yes, tin it. Otherwise, the screw will cut into the conductors and set you up for failure. This type of connection needs either tinning, or better still, a bootlace type terminator which slides over the flex ends, is crimped with the correct tool, then placed into the terminal.

    Personally, I'd just go for Andersen plugs if it is not exposed directly to weather. They tend not to let the smoke out. I've posted this up before, but stick with GENUINE Andersen. I've had so much trouble with cheapie replacements, use Andersens for everything. There is an Australian site which sells genuine and all the accessories at the same price as you pay for crap. Andersen Connect . https://andersonconnect.com.au/store...c5qluo8cn4gi20 usually finds the deals in the Specials page, buy a bagful. You can even buy the lugs for different size wires, instead of them being all the large ones for 16mm2 size cable.

  7. #7
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Thanks for the advice, guys..

    What issues did you guys have Gunna and snapper..?

    I was expressly told (by the dealer) not to use Andersons for the reasons expressed by Dignity and the fact that my plug is located in the anchor well and they will get wet....

    and thanks for the explanation Ranmar....my experience in this area is minimal..

  8. #8

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    The MK female plug was loose internally so you couldn’t twist the male in. The female plug had been sikaflexed into the gunnel and couldn’t be removed for replacement. We were in the middle of the Flatty Classic at the time so the Anderson plug was a quick fix. Turned out to be permanent.

  9. #9

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    I've posted this up before, the yanks are right into these. I have one but have not used it yet as I hardwired my MK.

    https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende..._ob_title_auto

    TMC

  10. #10

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Do you need to have the plugs at all?

  11. #11

    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Been running the Minn Kota MKR-26 plug for the last few months after always using Anderson plugs. Expensive but really high quality product and worth the outlay especially for salt water environment. It is a lot bigger than picture suggests so you need to make sure you have room for the tail end of the female connection in the bulkhead.

  12. #12
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg P View Post
    Been running the Minn Kota MKR-26 plug for the last few months after always using Anderson plugs. Expensive but really high quality product and worth the outlay especially for salt water environment. It is a lot bigger than picture suggests so you need to make sure you have room for the tail end of the female connection in the bulkhead.
    How do they work Greg..?

    Do they come with the plug ends hardwired to lengths of cable or do you just poke your wires in and screw them up..?

  13. #13
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Quote Originally Posted by Dignity View Post
    Is that similar to the MK plug. I'm not sure using solder will necessarily help as it sounds like the twisting action required has caused the strands to break which would still occur with solder, maybe not as much. There should have been a grommet where the cable entered the plug, was it omitted as this would have contributed to the problem.
    I've also gone to Anderson plugs but they also have their own issues. Cheap knock off versions aren't sun proof and the tinning on the prongs are very thin. I do use dielectric grease on mine as corrosion of them can cause high resistance.
    I dont know if they are the same as the MK plugs maybe Greg can tell us...

    Sam where do you put the dielectric grease..?on the male and female parts of the plugs or where the wires poke in to be screwed up...?

    they are not well sealed where the wires go in so moisture can certainly get in..it may well have helped cause the issues..

  14. #14
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    .................

  15. #15
    Ausfish Addict disorderly's Avatar
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    Re: Plugs for wiring trolling motors

    Quote Originally Posted by The Mad Cat View Post
    I've posted this up before, the yanks are right into these. I have one but have not used it yet as I hard wires my MK.

    https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tende..._ob_title_auto

    TMC
    Do you mean you have just single unbroken lengths of cable from inside the motor housing through to the circuit breaker..?

    Quote Originally Posted by Fed View Post
    Do you need to have the plugs at all?
    Ask TMC..

    Quote Originally Posted by ranmar850 View Post
    I tend to disagree with those blokes who told you your mistake was not "tinning" the ends of the wire first, depending on the actual type of terminal. Fine multi strand is a bit of a challenge to terminate well for higher-current application in DC. If they are flat-plate type terminators which crush the strands out without actually applying a screw directly to the strands, you need to tighten , give the conductors a good shake, tighten again. Otherwise the strands can "settle", and you end up with a hot joint. Tinning does not help in this situation--the joint will have less contact area due to the lack of compressibility due to the tinning. You probably realise this already, but hot joints are self-perpetuating ---high resistance makes the joint hot, as it heats the resistance gets higher, vicious circle which can really accelerate past a certain point and burn things down. If it is the circular type which relies on a screw bearing down directly on the strands, then yes, tin it. Otherwise, the screw will cut into the conductors and set you up for failure. This type of connection needs either tinning, or better still, a bootlace type terminator which slides over the flex ends, is crimped with the correct tool, then placed into the terminal.

    Personally, I'd just go for Andersen plugs if it is not exposed directly to weather. They tend not to let the smoke out. I've posted this up before, but stick with GENUINE Andersen. I've had so much trouble with cheapie replacements, use Andersens for everything. There is an Australian site which sells genuine and all the accessories at the same price as you pay for crap. Andersen Connect . https://andersonconnect.com.au/store...c5qluo8cn4gi20 usually finds the deals in the Specials page, buy a bagful. You can even buy the lugs for different size wires, instead of them being all the large ones for 16mm2 size cable.
    Now you are making me question the advice i have been given..

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