Reply With QuoteGreat to restore a family heirloom like that. Be interesting to watch. Good luck.
With greater Brisbane currently in lockdown and fishing off the agenda for the next few days at least (possibly longer) I decided to start a project that I have been putting off for some time. I am wanting to restore my father's last home made boat, a 2.4M punt style tinny. He made it in 1987 and unfortunaely, never got to use it for the intended purpose of crabbing around Yeppoon. Fortunately for me, I inherited the boat, motor and the oars that his father had made many year earlier. However, I did not inherit his metal work and mechanical skills. The general plan is to remove all the flaky paintwork, re-seal the seams with sikaflex and possibly repaint with a two pack epoxy to ensure a waterproof vessel. The 1984 4HP Johnson motor will need to be striiped down, cleaned and rebuilt to a working condition. I have watched a few YouTube videos and am keen to have a go myself with some guidance from more experienced Ausfishers. There is no immediate hurry as I have been putting this off for 31 years! The firsr step is to strip all the paint and I have checked out a few products online. Just wondering if this one is suitable and if anyone on the forum has had any experience with it.or if a better product is available. I have been quoted $600 to have the boat garnet blasted professionally which I am hoping to save and keep aside for the motor refurbishment as I expect it will need some extra TLC.
https://www.pestrol.com.au/buy-onlin...iABEgIii_D_BwE
Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers SS
Great to restore a family heirloom like that. Be interesting to watch. Good luck.
Has a meaning behind it well worth the restoration
Had a reasonably productive weekend. Washed down the boat to remove all the mudwasp nests and made an outboard motor stand from some scrap marine ply I had left over in the workshop. Cut out the pieces yesterday and screwed / glued up today with a coat of decking oil this afternoon. Motor is now vertical for strip and clean. I note there is no left side gear shift lever. Does this mean the motor is in forward gear all the time, even to start? One oar is broken and will need to have a 19mm dowel placed to spline the two pieces together. This will be a job on a wood turning lathe as I doubt I could drill a hole deep and straight for a 200mm dowel. The hull has some corrosion and pitting in places so I will need to strip back paintwork to the aluminium and treat the surface. I have watched a few more YouTube videos, mainly Jon boat restorations in USA and most owners seem to use chemical strippers without methyl chloride (for safety reasons I think). I found an alternative and cheaper paint stripping product on the Bunnings catalogue website and have decided to try this first on a small section of hull and see how things go.
Poly 1L Polystrippa Paint Stripper | Bunnings Warehouse
Also note that there is a seam / rivet sealant product used in USA called Gluvit which is very popular and has been given good reviews. The only downside is that there does not seem to be an Australian distributor and I may have to buy this on E-Bay. This is not something I normally do as I like to support Australian businesses. Has anyone had experience with this product for sealing aluminuim seams?
http://marinetex.com/products/marine...oducts/gluvit/
A few photos of progress to date. SS
hey Seastrength, when i done my sisters tinnie i used JB weld from bunnings and worked a treat on her seam weld and transom bung, i also used it to patch my radiator seam and one year on still all is good , never seen gluvit before but must be good anything epoxy like
I have used Boondall Paint and Varnish Stripper and found it a good product, safe and easy to use.
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Transire vinus forticulus
Be careful using that poly paint stripper from bunnings it is quiet aggressive maybe look at the orange peel paint stripper first its much softer
Those little engines i recall have a neutral and forward gear u need to spin the whole engine around for reverse
No gear lever on this one Gaz. Just forward. Could make for an interesting launch and retrieve at the boat ramp. 😢Originally Posted by gazza2006au
Made some more progress today with the aim of testing the poly paint stripper from Bunnings. The product worked quickly and blistered the outer coat of paint to allow easy scrapper removal. However, it did not lift the primer coat, even after two applications. I am guessing there is a strong bond with the aluminium. Sanding with 80 grit using the orbital sander did remove the primer coat eventually. Now I am wondering whether it is necessary to remove all the primer coat, except where there is obvious metal corrosion and a new primer to metal bond would be required. Any thoughts from the forum? Dad had filled the strakes with wood which was now rotted so considerable time was spent removing the rotted wood and the plastibond filler. Hopefully, I can make better progress tomorrow with the paint stripping. Cheers SS
You sure about that? There should be a lever at the top of the prop shaft, underneath the powerhead casing, on the starboard side that switches from neutral to forward and back. I've circled where it should be on your pic. They often had extension arms fitted to them to bring them up to a more convenient position near the front of the casing.
EDIT: Okay, looks like it could well be a forward-only model. I used a similar Johnson 4hp a couple of times years back and it had the shift lever on the side. That should be a bag of laughs
OK, a few things, make double sure the paint stripper is suitable for Aluminium, that oar will probably break again if you use it, it's broken right on the leverage point, lots of those old 4HP motors were always in forward, and swing right around for reverse, try turning it around 180 degrees, and note if there is a groove kind of setup the motor leg slides into to stop it kicking up in reverse, try not to "glue" anything, repair or weld, don't glue.
I have the Evinrude version of that engine.
It's in forward gear all the time so you have to turn the engine right around to reverse.
No problems when starting as it idles quite slowly.
Just make certain that you're aware that the prop spins as soon as the engine is running.
Used it on a 16 feet Rosco canoe, easy 10 to 12 knots one up.
Thanks for clearing up this issue Luc. I was about to check with an outboard wrecker to ask for a gear shift lever. I thought the original may have been lost or broken over the last 44 years. SS
Thanks for those tips Noel. The motor turns 180 so this one may be the gearless model. I am trying to hunt down a service manual. The YouTube videos claim spare parts are not a problem, at least in the US. SS.
I have a 4hp Johnson seahorse twin piston.. sitting in the skip ready to go to its maker on Friday...just had a look and the lever on the side is the throttle start and stop...on this model anyway.Got it for a song many years ago..because it didnt run properly almost from new.Changed the plugs and it ran like a dream..until it wasnt needed, and has spent the last 30 years or so being royally neglected..You can have the whole damn thing if you want or we can sort out serial numbers and check compatability...and I can take off any parts you need ..no cost other than freight or postage...Im in Vic...can drop off in Melbourne Thursday anywhere along the Hume ..SE Freeway..Monash...glad if its of use.Your model has a built in fuel tank....mine has an external tank and connection..but what odds the internals are similar.The twin cylinder arrangement was very quiet .ish
Great little motor...as above no reverse...requiring some planning ahead...and a variable fuel flow for slow speed trolling..
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