um....not a "electrickery" expert either....but I believe... not only whether the battery is fully charged...my local garage load tests the battery as well to see if its all in order...maybe have the battery checked out .
Just because the battery is not that old, and will charge OK over night doesn't mean it's "good" can you charge it, then leave it disconnected for a couple of weeks (use another battery for the boat if you want to go out) then try the battery after it's been sitting for a while.
Thanks Noel. Good plan. I will take it out and use my back up battery for my trip to Lake Monduran later this week. It will be interesting to see if the start battery discharges while not in use. Cheers SS.Originally Posted by Noelm
You should fit a battery isolator, or, at least disconnect the positive lead-( or negative, same result) Modern electronics will always draw even when "switched off". For example, Raymarine specifically mention this in their installation instructions. Everything on my boat is individually fed and switched, so I can just turn them off at the switch panel and leave my House battery isolator on if desired. But, having a VSR, it wouldn't matter anyway, as I am isolated from the Start battery..
Yes, get the battery tested, if OK, just disconnect it beween uses.
Was the battery flat when you couldn't start the motor, how do you know?
Does the motor charge the battery, how do you know?
My money is on,... NOT the battery.
Hi Fed
I suspect you are probably right. Although the battery indicator was red, the shop voltmeter test still read 12.2 volts, but not enough to kick the motor over. I assume my 50PH Honda motor can recharge the battery, but do not have the know how to check if this is happening while underway. I never had a problem with my first battery, a Seamaster Gold, which lasted 8 years. My problems only started after I upgraded the old Garmin sounder to a Helix 9 with Wi-Fi, Bluetooth etc. As Ranmar mentioned above, there may have been a low power draw from the new electronics even though everything was "turned off". I have since added a small second battery circuit for the accessories, bilge pump, lights, and sounder and keep the start battery separate only for the motor.. So hopefully, this will fix my problem without the need to install a battery isolator as well. I can also disconnect the battery positive when not using the boat for a longer period of time as other Ausfishers have recommended. Cheers SS.
a battery switch is $49 or less, a short terminated cable $30
considering all the benefits of one i dont see why you wont fit one
have the battery completed disconnected all the time is best practice putting aside dealing with your current draw issues
pppppppppppp
Red indicator, 12.2 volts all point to a dud battery. A full battery should be showing at least 12.6v, even with 12.2v a red indicator could be telling you the fluid level is low but I don't trust those indicators one bit.
What does your battery pull down to when starting?
Thanks Dignity
I have organised a load test on the battery and will let you know the result when known. Cheers SS
What sort of battery switch have you got I found mine would be in the off position but not quite off as I found out I was getting flat battery and ended up disconnecting from the battery.
agreed, the green/red indicator only samples 1 cell!
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Shakey - If only I lived near the coast
All you need is a simple load tester to tell you if the battery is any good or not.
Nothing to interpret or special knowledge needed.
$44.
I've had a similar device for years.
Kincrome 6/12V <100A Battery Load Tester | Bunnings Warehouse
The kincrome looks good however it’s only suitable for lead acid battery’s apparently
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