Whats good about Scotts method is u dont need to try fit 3-4 wire ends into the 7 pin plug and make it a mess
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Nothing fancy Steve. I used an alloy one from Jaycar - bit stronger and won't suffer with UV over time. I fitted individual cable glands for each wire into the bottom end by tapping them rather than just drilling holes and relying on the little plastic nuts. The internal joins I did with solder and then waterproof self amalgamating tape over insulation tape but a barrier strip like you have posted up will work fine too. With your LED light assemblies, just go gentle on tightening the bolts. I tend to use Nylocks and rely on that rather than the bolt being overly tight to stop it coming off. Seen quite a few cracked because the mounting plates are a bit warped from either the welding or galvanizing process.
Whats good about Scotts method is u dont need to try fit 3-4 wire ends into the 7 pin plug and make it a mess
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Scott, not sure what you meant about "tapping". I checked out those Jaycar barrier strips a week or so ago and when I mentioned that one of the circuits (the power supply for the electric/hudraulic brakes) had 30 amp fuse on it I was told it wouldn't do as only rated to 15 amps.
Interestingly Jaycar sell virtually no grommets so am interested in your process as there are a number of diffetent sized cables required.
I have been in the process of going through my wiring as when I had the towbar installed after I bought my vehicle I had the electric controller and anderson plug installed at the same time. The auto electrician just used a standard loom connection and the power supply for the brake system was way too light, no wonder I kept having problems with my brakes. Fixed it by tapping into the Anderson plugs.
Just something for others to watch out for.
Hi Guys
Just closing off this thread.
I've rewired the entire trailer bringing individual light circuits forward to a junction ... and then from there to an individual lead for connection to the vehicle.
She's been in the water a couple of times and works well.
I'll need to get a plastic box to enclose the set up to finalise it ... but happy with the results.
Thanks to all who contributed to the solution.
Steve
Attachment 122266
Sunshine Coast - Kevlacat 5.2
I cut the thread into the junction box with the appropriate tap to suit the gland Sam so they screw into the box - not just push through the hole and secure with a nut. It's a far better way of installing cable glands provided the material is thick enough. I usually solder all my connections so they can be waterproofed even though they are in the jbox.