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Thread: Pride half cabin rebuild

  1. #91

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    still building layers with the transom . getting there slowly but surely , also the black pigment i flicked around earlier to try speckle experience , i forgot to add hardner to it and it never cured a week later was wet , lesson learnt there
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  2. #92

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    Hey Cat my original transom was 10 or 11 layers thick the key to my success was to lay 2 layers at a time and very much focus on those two layers, you can build a laminate 3mm thick in one go which is about 4 layers thick but u have to rush as the resin on the first layer kicks it heats up the whole job

    Even if u just lay 1 layer at atimeto perfection its way better than busting your balls trying to get 4 layers on in 40mins before the resin kicks hard

    Just remember once the resin exotherms and cools u can wack another layer on while the first layer is still tacky

    But if u epoxy on aday where motning dew is around and 14c you'll need to wipe the amine blush off with ascourer and water

  3. #93

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    yeah cool , i have only been doing two layers as i dont want anything heating up . i can feel the odd droplet of resin burning my wrists as i splash it on so slow and steady wins the race

  4. #94

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    doing two layers then sanding back to rough up, ive found the belt sander to be good 75mm x 355 with a 36 grit to be better than a grinder flapper disc 40 grit , that sh#t is agressive and shards fly off , definetly need vacumn attachements , i bought a dust gaurd for the 5 inch , paired with a nylon abbrasive pad "black coral looking thing " and works well too , but at 27$ a pad that is only for special duty , the outer edges ready for tabbing , i removed the blue crap with the belt sander/36 grit and went thru many layers of what appear to be various antifouls, undercoats , and it was a breeze,

  5. #95

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    The way i mentioned i done my first transom were 2 lays on tha n 2 days cure, a sand before 2 days wouldclog the sand paper as the resin wasnt 100 percent cured, after 2 days the resin goes rock hard and can be sanded easily

    The idea is u can wack on 2 layers give it a 3 hours t o exotherm it will heat up than cool down u can wach another 2 layers strait on

    Or u can wait the 2 days, sand, etc repeat..

    But just dont wack 2 layers on than wack another 2 layers on within 48 hours as anything over 6 hours and under 48 hours when u go to sand u just smudge the resin around and clog the sanding pads

  6. #96
    Ausfish Silver Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Brisbane

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    Hey Cat.

    Haven't been hereabouts for a while, and it's nice to see that you have bitten the bullet and jumped in.

    Your photos are incorrectly oriented, because you are taking portrait photos. If you turn your camera 90 degrees and take "landscape" photos, they will appear properly.

    The F'glass you are using. Is it mat backed double bias?
    If yes, and if you are doing a full poly layup, you made the perfect choice.
    With poly, new work must always start with a thin (200gsm+) layer of choppy to tie the DB. Using the mat back, you have doubled the speed of laying up, and the csm holds the DB in place better.
    Once you really get confident, you should be able to pre-cut the glass to do a whole run up the entire stringer, full height and 100mm onto the hull wide, wet out off the job, flake over to transport into boat, then unroll on the job and consolidate, all before it starts to go off. Keep to .8% hardener. Must have .7% to catalyse.
    You don't actually need another layer of mat back, but if it will make you feel better, put a 100mm patch every 200mm.
    The DB is incredibly strong compared to the rubbish CSM that it was built with. 450DB is also much stronger than the 600 woven rovings that were used then.
    Try not to lay up more than 1100gsm in one go, as it will probably overheat. As soon as you can feel it cooling, go again.

    I use AA Composites resins. Their waxed poly is very easy to work with, and if recoated within 8 hours, needs no prep. After that, 40/60 grit, no shine, blow off, acetone wipe.

    Don't let it scare you, and finish 1 job at a time.

    And please don't get caught up in mindless chatter about what you're doing or thought about last night, or advice from back yard "experts".
    Trust me, you will go back years later and re-read this build thread.
    You will also use this as a selling tool when the time comes, and chit chat makes it very tiresome to read.

    Sorry, but it needs to be said.
    Apologies if you don't agree, but this is Your build thread.

    There's a heap of guy's here who have done this sort of work professionally for years and all you need do is ask.
    You've been on this site for a long time, you have seen how it's done, you understand the principles, so just do it.

    You have chosen a really nice boat to restore. With a 200hp 2 smoke, it will go really well (40kts + is my guess - please get a Merc) and be a good sea boat with a cabin for a nice LLD and a loo for the ladies.
    Or a CC if you want. Your boat, your call.
    Back in the day, Pride/Caribbean boats were seen as the Mercedes/BMW alternative to a Haines/Cruise Craft/Seafarer.

    Itchies Cure:
    Step 1: If you have an air compressor, great. Wet all arms and legs, blow off with air gun. No itchies.
    Step 2: If no compressor, start here. Have a shower as normal. When done, stay in there with water running and use a synthetic shower puff, squirt some liquid soap onto it, lather up all itchy areas, then rinse off continuing to rub away with the loofah/shower puff.
    Guarantee no itchies. (Well, very few and quite tolerable).

    Last comment, for what it's worth:

    Take joy in the journey, use the knowledge that is willingly shared on this forum, and post plenty of Landscape photos!

    Harry (Giddy-up)

  7. #97

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    thanks giddy , im humbled by your kind words , yes ill take this good advice in , as well from your rebuilds is invaluable experience and thanks for sharing. i was thinking about a year before this hull came up for sale whether i wanted to get into it , and now as i get into , learning and forward as i go , i would happily do another a build in the future, its become a bit addictive i must say , i have the picture in my mind on how this will end , so there is then my goal has been set.
    i was planning to put a mercury 200 hp two stroke on her , as i raised the transom , hopefully it will sit nice in the water , and not be too heavy plus a cuddycab up forward should bring the balance back , started demo on a chine stringer and got my bosch power saw onto the bilge , hard work made easy

  8. #98

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    ive just been laying up two layers at a time , the most i did was 2x 450gsm at a time , so if you say 1100gsm is the max , it sounds good thanks

  9. #99

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    from old to new , can it be done time will tell.......well looks like i have to hold my phone to the left 90* to get this photo on top , thanks giddy
    From carribean caprice cruiser to a a fresher cleaner looking cabin boat (photo for illustration purposes only ) will be the goal , l'll do this old banger up and will eventually end up pouring at least 15k into this for a basic setup , but its a keeper hence the reason to slave over it

    too the two lads in the 16r haines-hunter today that went to the shelf and got that metre plus dolphin fish , just awesome stuff guys
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  10. #100

    Re: Pride half cabin rebuild

    demo of back area today , observe this clean patch of glass , had a piece of ply with foam filled under the void, ply was black and mouldy underneath. didnt looked to be sealed and foam was half soaked with water , floor had been nailed down with clout nails with water ingress thru these points in the stringers.
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