Reply With QuoteOriginally Posted by Fed
agreed
even th eolder 70s johnsons i first had it was just a procedure to follow
the new stuff always started first turn or 1-2 pulls if pull start
Finicky weird procedures of operation are nothing more than a couple of simple steps needed on old tech two strokes.
Would you attempt to walk out of your front door without opening it first?
OK Google, start my outboard.
agreed
even th eolder 70s johnsons i first had it was just a procedure to follow
the new stuff always started first turn or 1-2 pulls if pull start
There's a few things to note, there is no Yamaha or Mercury 2 strokes available new, and for that matter, your G2 dream is just that unless you can find one in stock somewhere, there is simply no new 2 strokes on the market. Now to be fair, providing that "old" Yamaha is OK, then don't be worried about reliability or longevity, they are a very good engine, your issue (in my opinion) is buying it via the Internet, untested, unseen and unknown.
Hi OJ,
I went thru the right processes, I travelled up to Sydney from Melbourne, gave it the once over, as best I could, researched the engine.
Couldn't take it out on the day I went up, even I wasn't game in the conditions that day. Got a shiprite to go do an inspection, the owner said the guy was there for near 3 hours, used a water meter on the transom, pulled stuff apart etc. Spoke to the shiprite myself before he sent down a report, his last words were, if I was in the market for an older rig such as this, I would buy this boat.
I returned 2 weeks later and went on a water test, it was a shite day, but not as bad as my first visit. We were out for 6 hours, even had a fish. The guy was genuine enough, had the boat for 7-8 years, bought it with a mate, who had just past away with cancer, needed to pay out his mates wife.
Did all the usual tests, no water coming out of the bungs after the day on the water, engine went superb.
It took 3 years for the problems to rise, firstly, the gradual build up of water coming out of the bungs after a day out. Then, after a week in Eden out wide, arrived home, stored the boat and up to a week later, was still getting water draining out.
End of the story was, cut some inspection holes in the floor, to find that the stringers and bulk heads were complete mush.
Investigating everything afterwards, the bow eye was damaged and water had been tracking in for some time, working it's way around the cubby seats, delaminating them underneath, the bulkheads were mush, stopping water from flowing back. The stringers were effectively swinging in the breeze.
I was lucky that I never had a serious issue while out wide for the week previously, we were in some serious conditions out there, with the stringers having parted ways with the hull, I was lucky I never cracked the hull.
The original issue that caused this, did not happen in the 3 years I had had it, it was well on the way to being knackered when I purchased it.
Unless you actually cut some inspection ports in the floor, when looking at some of these old boats, especially with the methods they used to construct boats in the 70's thru 90's, your never going to really know.
Should the shiprite have picked all this up ?? dunno.
But what I do know, is even with a shiprites inspection, Major structural visible issues should be picked up, but sleeping issues below deck are not so easy to detect, unless you can get in there to physically check everything out.
The ironical thing about mine, was that the Masonite flooring, all bar a very small area down back, was near perfect, as was the transom.
The damage found, didn't start and was well on it's way pryor to my 3 years of ownership.
That's boating...
Col
Obviously I am talking about carby two strokes if you look at my previous posts. Some of them came with oil injection - perhaps you mean fuel injection. That brings up another point in that carbies are far less vulnerable to the effects of water in the fuel. This can ruin injectors and result in considerable expense and time out of action.
Yes the bigger ones (2 strokes) can be hard to start when cold - but usually the case is you can get them going after a few minutes and then they will start almost instantly the rest of the day. Once you work out the right procedure it's not to difficult to folllow it.
As to corrosion issues with 4 strokes there have been terminal corrosion problems with one brand at least on motors that aren't that old - a disaster considering the price of a new one.
http://www.fishingworld.com.au/news/...-goes-to-worse
Noelm,
Isn't the Mercury SeaPro a 2-stroke ? It is still listed on their website ... I agree the 2-strokes seem to be gone from the Yamaha website.
The only 2 banger avaliable is from tohatsu
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
I have to say some mates own a yamaha 115 2002 that has been faultless for around 150 hours it does use fuel and its a bitch to start for the day but runs brilliant all day long
If your worried about old 2 stroke engines starting first thing in the morning install a primer that pumps fuel from your line or tank and squirts fuel into the carby throat any carby engine eill start instantly
Old 2 stroke jetskis use these primers
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
I moved my primer bulb to after the filter and about 6 inches from the motor and in a position easy to keep the bulb vertical. I also shortened the fuel line after the filter (I had it long enough to reach the auxilary). I think this might have fixed my cold starting problems as it started first turn of the key when I tried it at home. I am yet to try early in the morning but it looks promising..
warning flags are up everywhere on this .....should you buy it...probably ...absolutely not...under these conditions....there are a lot of second hand boats for sale at any one time..so buying something old ,sight unseen and far away, is a bad strategy for a start.If you went up to see it..would you know what to look for..and by the time you get there are you going to feel like you need to purchase just because of the trip..
You might be lucky and then again not so..and your boating life would be off to a rocky start.Look locally..make it easy for yourself ...ask around if anyone is selling a boat,go the chandlers. ...I have seen some guys be able to sniff out really good buys that way...photos on the internet etc are very dodgy indeed.
As opposed to just turning the key ….
No doubt you love an old carbie 2 banger …….. me , no thanks - been there , done that …… moved on
Chris
Give a man a fish & he will eat for a day !
Teach him how to fish
& he will sit in a boat - & drink beer all day!
TEAM MOJIKO
Funny thing, many years ago I had a pair of Johnson 70s on a boat, the motors could not be so different, one you needed to prime, lift the idle lever to full and give it full choke while turning it over to get it to start, but the other one, if you touched the choke, warm up lever or primer bulb, it would not start, many times I went out on one motor for a while so I could start the second one because I accidentally pushed the choke in for a second, had lots of twins that were different to start. The old FICHTs I had were pretty good, one would start second turn (like it should) but the other one would kick, but not start twice, then start, same every time.
still have steps to follow on my Yamaha 4 stroke
prime bulb and turn key
same as every forward control 2 stroke ive owned 70 90 115 225 and a pair of 30s only difference was an idle lever which rarely got used.
think we need to separate the pre 80s 70s old things and two strokes since then even carbed ones
Should be no need to prime with EFI.
i disconnect the fuel line between uses as take the tank out and put the fuel in the ride on
manual states to prime it I just reconnect and squeeze it till feel fuel in the bulb
just stating there is still a procedure wether you think so not
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