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Seeing there’s no water in the local river I Havnt been able to get out
finally got a reasonable sounder and a sun shield installed and working
anyone else been changing their boats or fixing/upgrading bits ?
I wish I was doing boat stuff, I am renovating my laundry, what a job, the damn tiles are on brick with a cement based glue, something common in the 70's I'm told and it's taking ages to jack hammer them off, taking half the brick with it. Then there is electrical work, Villaboard and Gyprock, new toilet, doors and jambs, new shower fittings, false ceiling built, then tile the floor, it's been close to a week now and I am still in the demolition stage! Don't know why the laundry was made so big, it's 4X4m not including the shower and toilet, and being double brick, everything has to be cut (chased) into the walls, nothing is easy.
watch the dust noelm
bathroom in my 8 year old home has failed waterproofing and is unusable atm
Damn dust, it's hard buying plain old dust masks, then there's the glass like ceramic tiles as they splinter while using the little jack hammer, only a few metres to go now, then at least it's going back together, going to tile over the floor tiles, there lots of primers available that are made for the job, but, it's been a nightmare.
You need to get the half face respirators with the double filters, as the filters for those are readily available, at least last time I checked, and just recently bought another one as mine was getting a bit ratty. Plus they filter out much more than just the simple dust masks do.
I have done some work on the boat but still more to do. I just redid the live bait tanks pickup, as I wasn't happy the way that the previous owner set it up, originally the external pickup pump was controlled by the on/off switch on a dash panel, which meant that once you switched it on it would run the pump continuously, even on the plane when the water wasn't able to properly access the pumps intake. So I remounted the pump higher on a wider piece of ally angle and added a float switch next to it as well as a longer pickup underneath to the pump. This way, once the pump is switched on at the dash and the boat sitting in the water it will pull the water up once the float lever switch is in the high position. Once the boat is on the plane, the float lever falls down and switches off the pump, but as the boat is planing the water pressure just pushes its way through the pump into the tanks. I have replaced the hoses and also added a valve between the pump and the tanks so if I don't want water in the tanks it will stop the water going though the pump. So effectively, it is now automatic and I don't have to remember to switch the pump on or off. The only thing I have to make sure is that I don't switch on the pump when the valve is closed.
There was an additional aluminium water pickup just to the right which went through the transom and had a deck wash down pump and hose connected to it, and no tap on the inside of the transom, which I thought was a really bad idea because if the hose perished or the pump failed and you were under speed the water would bucket in with no way to stop it. So I cut it off and removed them, shortened the external pickup tube and threaded it and then put in a plug on the outside.That was easier than totally removing it, then having to fill the hole. The plastic mounting board was also not my idea but it would have been too much drama to remove it at the time and then put the ally angle direct to the transom itself. Turns out the hose was perished and the pump had corrosion in it and was seized, so glad I removed it.
Next on the agenda is I have to fix the seats in the boat as the plywood bases have perished a bit and the seats lean back way too much and the missus complains that it hurts her back. Next on the list is to get a spare battery and have to make a spare 60l fuel tank, as I am going to the 1770 meet and greet, with any luck and weather permitting I would like to get out to the reef so need to make sure I have enough fuel, so still have a bit of time to do all these things.
Will be drilling mine full of holes as an arti in the near future......
Jack.
I got some things done to make life a little easier on the Barcrusher
You can never have too much cold storage …. food , fish , bait = flexibility
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I also went with a new bait station to keep things close at hand during a hot session
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Used them on one trip ….. very happy with the outcome …… bait that is nice & fresh - rigs close at hand …. tools there abouts = happy camper
Chris
Give a man a fish & he will eat for a day !
Teach him how to fish
& he will sit in a boat - & drink beer all day!
TEAM MOJIKO
Took a bit of a break from the jackhammer and fitted a sounder to my sons tinny, was a welcome relief to be doing something easy.
Mine had a pretty similar set up for my live bait tank before the rebuild Ed, But, I can't get my head around that float switch set up, I may get back to you on that when I'm ready to do mine, interesting.... I do like the fact you can do it without drilling holes in the tranny, that will be my main aim.
Haven't really got up to that stage on mine yet, have to get my head around different options.
Col
Hi Col, had a lazy day today so took some pics to try to explain it better, excuse the crappy diagram.
Pic 1 is the full setup.
Pic 2. is the pump removed from it holder shows the hole I drilled through it as well as through the ally angle holding the setup to the transom
Pic 2a. is a side view of the pumps pickup and is welded to the bottom of the ally angle.
Pic 3. shows the outlet hose going to Tap1.
Pic 4.The outlet hose is on the left and goes to Tap 1, if the tap is closed no water goes anywhere, any water from the pickup under speed hits the pump bottom but can't go anywhere as Tap1 is closed so the water just sprays out at the pumps bottom and out though the holes on the sides of the the pumps mounting base.
Pic 4a, shows the water path, If Tap 1 water is open the water goes up and then down and then from the T piece goes to Tank 1. can't go to Tank 2 as tap 2 is closed. If Tap 2 is open, water will flow to both tanks.
The last pic is the wiring diagram.
So long as the float is below the waterline at rest it should work as the float lever will be up and switch on the pump, once you are planing the boat will rise up and the float will drop and switch off the pump, from then on the water pressure from the pick up will force the water through the pump and into the tanks, once you stop planing the the water pressure from the pickup isn't enough to force its way through but then the boat drops off the plane and sits in the water, which floats the lever up and the pump switches on again and so forth. I also added a lower drain hole in each tank as if I just use the existing drain holes I think that there will be too much weight in the transom as they are fairly large tanks.
The plumbing is messy but it is the only way I could access the main Tap 1 easily from inside the boat, so once it is turned on the first tank will fill up and if I want the second tank to fill up I may have to climb a little bit to reach it. Unfortunately I have to deal with how this boat was setup before I got it, I certainly would not have used that plastic board to mount things on it so it is what it is! Excuse the bad spelling of "gose" in the pics should be "goes".
Hope this all makes sense!
Hey Ed,
I'll be sitting down tonight and getting my head around this , thanks....
I had a similar made up aluminium bracket with the pick up and bilge pump attached, but not the float switch.....
I'm like a computer, sometimes things have to be punched into me !!!.
Thanks Ed
Col
Ed, I think I understand what you are trying to do, how has it worked out for you as I would have thought there might be enough white water coming off that transducer to keep flipping the float switch up while underway.
I put new LT tyres on the boat trailer, got a great deal from Bob Janes on some Khumos in 14”, but having the wheels off, it prompted me to
Check the wheel bearings, and found one with water intrusion and rust, which lead to
Inspection of the disc hubs, 10 years old and discs pretty sad and hubs rusty, and a chunk of one broke out when I was punching out a very tight rear bearing race, which lead to
New disc hubs having to be ordered in because they are Trojan brand but 9” rather than the regulation 8” or 10” so that was a 2 week wait, but that gave me time to
Get the wire wheel onto the angle grinder and clean up the axle and brake caliper ears, and then decided the fish plate and U bolts looked pretty ordinary so replaced them too and gave it all a few coats of cold gal and then a few coats of lanolin spray, and while I was still waiting for the hubs to arrive,
Took the stainless steel Trojan hydraulic calipers off and cleaned them up, but managed to unintentionally pop a brake piston out on one caliper so had to figure out how to get that back in, found a video online on servicing Trojan hydraulic calipers so that helped ensure I didnt stuff it up .. and also pushed both pistons back in enough to accommodate the new brake pads to be fitted..
Anyway the new Galvanised Trojan disc hubs duly arrived on time, complete with new US bearings, seals, wheel nuts, lock nut and dust cover, and better still, the bearing races were already pressed in, so all I had to do was pack the bearings with grease and put it all back together.
Put new stainless steel backed brake pads in, bolted the calipers back on, then bled the brakes and flushed the brake fluid thru since it was a couple years since last changed. Then a test drive to check everything was working right, found a slight problem with one caliper piston dust seal not sitting quite right, so fixed that and took for another successful test drive.
All in all, it needed to be done, and should now be good for a few more years.
Note to self: Don't argue with an idiot. They will only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience....