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Thread: Fibreglass kit

  1. #16
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Cox76y View Post
    If it's an older hull I doubt it would be epoxy..
    Hi Coxy It's only 3-4 years old. I have to give the builder a ring tomorrow so I'll find out what I need to do then. I'm not sure if these cracks in the storage bin are part of the 7 year hull warranty to be honest ?



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  2. #17

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    you need to thoroughly clean the repair area after grinding etc and before resin .. wipe over with.acetone or equivalent..

    you need disposable gloves ...respirator and also wear eye protection when handling hardener.

    boatworks today is a good utube site for info from basic techniques onwards.....

  3. #18
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Will do , thanks Inveratta.


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  4. #19

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Evo, ascertain if it comes under warranty especially if it is integral with the hull. If it is connected to the floor then you might be out of luck. Is it just an eyesore or do you think it will worsen and cause other issues. If just cosmetic then think about just using some hull liner, its easy to install and very forgiving if you make an error, easily recified.

    Cheers Sam

  5. #20
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Spot on Dignity. I rang today and it was mentioned about delaminating and he would fix it when I bring it in. So when I book it in for next afternoon shift I’ll clarify if it is covered by warranty.


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  6. #21

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Delaminating sounds like warranty. Good luck.

  7. #22

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Do you have any pics of the surface you are concerned about?

    If it is a commercially produced boat then it would be highly unlikely to be made with epoxy due to the cost of it, the end product would make it way too expensive to sell as it it about 3-4 times the price of "normal polyester" resin. If it was a specialist custom boat or yacht then possibly! On rare occasions you might find one made from vinyl-ester and that might only be in the very outside or top layers with the rest poly, again due to the cost. Most don't even use "Iso" and just use "Ortho" resin to save on costs.

    I have come across quite a few cracks in the flow coats of inside storage areas in various boat brands, and they were mainly from the the boat workers spraying the flowcoat way too thick. It should be applied like paint and not like body deadener if you know what I mean. If the cracks/crazing go through or are on the hull bottom side as well, then it usually means that not enough glass and or reinforcing was used in the build and it is flexing to much in that area. I had that in one of my boats up the front in the bow section where it would be pounded by large waves, hitting the waves caused to it flex too much and crack, the addition of 4 extra layers of glass added the strength it needed and no more cracks. It was a bit of a pain in the backside to fix as it was in a confined space and it had to be sanded down to the glass to fix, and I hate sanding fiberglass with vengeance, did too many years of it.

    If it is in a confined space then put a fan over it to blow the styrene out as it will take much longer to cure otherwise and don't forget to get resin rollers to work the air out of the laminate, don't just use a paint brush. If you do it properly then you will have almost no need to sand and can just apply the flow coat over it when its cured.

    Just my 2 cents worth.

  8. #23
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Quote Originally Posted by Dignity View Post
    Delaminating sounds like warranty. Good luck.
    I forgot to mention in the post that I sent the builder a video of the affected area - "delaminating" was his opinion from the video.


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  9. #24

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    If you want the surface to have a nice finish before you flowcoat you can use peel ply or one laminators trick is to use surfboard fibreglass matting rather than peel ply as it is much cheaper and adds a little extra strength again. If its inside a storage locker tho I probably wouldn't bother. Id just apply it with a mohair roller..

  10. #25
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Quote Originally Posted by EdBerg View Post
    Do you have any pics of the surface you are concerned about?

    If it is a commercially produced boat then it would be highly unlikely to be made with epoxy due to the cost of it, the end product would make it way too expensive to sell as it it about 3-4 times the price of "normal polyester" resin. If it was a specialist custom boat or yacht then possibly! On rare occasions you might find one made from vinyl-ester and that might only be in the very outside or top layers with the rest poly, again due to the cost. Most don't even use "Iso" and just use "Ortho" resin to save on costs.

    I have come across quite a few cracks in the flow coats of inside storage areas in various boat brands, and they were mainly from the the boat workers spraying the flowcoat way too thick. It should be applied like paint and not like body deadener if you know what I mean. If the cracks/crazing go through or are on the hull bottom side as well, then it usually means that not enough glass and or reinforcing was used in the build and it is flexing to much in that area. I had that in one of my boats up the front in the bow section where it would be pounded by large waves, hitting the waves caused to it flex too much and crack, the addition of 4 extra layers of glass added the strength it needed and no more cracks. It was a bit of a pain in the backside to fix as it was in a confined space and it had to be sanded down to the glass to fix, and I hate sanding fiberglass with vengeance, did too many years of it.

    If it is in a confined space then put a fan over it to blow the styrene out as it will take much longer to cure otherwise and don't forget to get resin rollers to work the air out of the laminate, don't just use a paint brush. If you do it properly then you will have almost no need to sand and can just apply the flow coat over it when its cured.

    Just my 2 cents worth.
    Thanks EdBerg, either way (fixed by manufacturer warranty or by me in the back yard) I'm grateful for all the help and information in this case about "how to" on this forum.

    It's definitely not just spider crazing in flowcoat.
    There's is split fibreglass along two inside edges of the locker.
    Nothing heavy is stored in there, really a few emergency ropes and a gas canister cooker in the plastic case, that's all.
    I'll try get a screenshot of the video I took on my phone and post shortly.
    Anyway I'll be happy if it's sorted by the builder, or if I do it then it's not an easily visible spots so an ugly first attempt won't matter - as long as it's strong.


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  11. #26
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit





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  12. #27

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Are you tying the front of the boat down to the trailer with a ratchet strap or turnbuckle?
    These things can apply a lot of force and they don't stretch.
    Same goes for having the bow roller too low in relation to the bow eye and partially floating the boat onto the trailer.

  13. #28
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
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    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Hi Fed, no extra straps at the bow are used - just the pulley ratchet and chain hold the boat at the bow.
    Re the bow roller position - the bow roller pulls the bow eye up tight onto the bottom of the roller



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  14. #29

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Evo, a bit grainy but that looks like there has been a repair there already, I'd definitely contact the builder to sort it out under waranty.

  15. #30

    Re: Fibreglass kit

    Quote Originally Posted by 552Evo View Post
    Hi Fed, no extra straps at the bow are used - just the pulley ratchet and chain hold the boat at the bow.
    Re the bow roller position - the bow roller pulls the bow eye up tight onto the bottom of the roller



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    It all looks good.

    When you retrieve the last couple of feet is the stern still partially floating or is it firmly sitting on the rear roller?

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