Thanks i will give it a try much appreciated for the advice, i had spent hours and hours on the orbital sander
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
If you can get a hold of a belt sander with a decent amount of watts and a course belt, that would save a lot of time especially on the flats. They are a must have for doing boat repairs but you do need a powerful one as fiberglass is extremely hard on them. Preferably about 950-1200W and 75-100mm wide belt.
Gazza,
I found this to be the quickest and 1 wheel did me for my whole build. At $22 bucks they are pretty cheap.. It gets rid of the glass and gelcoat in larger chunks so doesnt end up as dusty..
https://www.gasweld.com.au/grinding-...sh100mm-10grit
Hi all.
Glad to say that the little Haines has been finished, structurally.
It still looks like crap, but it will not fall apart in the next 40 years...
Last job was to epoxy glass on the rear deck, inside and out:
IMG_0349.jpg IMG_0350.jpg IMG_0351.jpg
Last photo is the "before", inside. Thought I took a photo of the "after". Oops...
I had a couple of days off as I was considering what to actually do with the boat.
I decided that, at the least, I had to respray the hull, so I've reset it higher so I can comfortably work on it..
IMG_0352.jpg
I'll have to find another place for the Mustang so I can actually get around the Haines, but that shouldn't be a problem.
I had a go at sanding and polishing the hull and topsides (hull is horizontal surface (bottom of boat), topsides are vertical (chine to gunwhale)), but no cigar. Too many dents and scrapes, so for me, easier to repaint it.
That leaves the problem with the deck.
Not fair on my neighbors to grind off the gelcoat in my driveway, so I'll probably take it to the sand blasters, however that grinding disc that Cox76Y came up with looks like fun! Even if I can't use it to strip the gelcoat, I'm sure I can find something else to shred with it!
Next job?
Prepare the transom - another grind, epoxy bog made with micro balloons, fairing, highbuild and when the transom is 1 highbuild away from paint, bring the rest of the hull and topsides to the same level and paint.
Not much wrong with the hull - a couple of scrapes that are an easy fix, and topsides are just really badly faded and not a nice colour, so it shouldn't take too long.
I'll repaint the engine too and give it a birthday.
More soon, hopefully...
Yeah that tool Cox linked looks good
Giddy i like your idea of the beam to support the hull i actually think that was a great idea i have been looking how to lift my hull too
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Hi all.
I haven't done much at all on the little Haines for the last few weeks, as I have been agonising over what to actually do with it...
Originally, I thought keep it standard, but what's the fun in that? Couldn't really see a big market for a restored, standard 40+ year old, 14'6" runabout. I can't even get an offer on worlds best 1600SO with all the fruit...
Then I thought that I'd convert it into a centre-console/family day boat.
I took a couple photos of this one overseas, so I could remember the layout.
For some reason, the folk on the Mediterranean love those silly rear facing Targa Arches.:
IMG_3050.jpg IMG_3051.jpg IMG_3053.jpg
I still like the layout and it gets rid of the fore-deck, which needs a lot of work to fix, but not as much as duplicating the above..
I decided that no matter what I was going to do, the transom and rear deck, which I had cut off and replaced, needed to be finished properly, so out with the epoxy to completely glass everything.
The re-glassing served 2 purposes - 1) It put a skin over the 100+ holes on the transom, and 2) to cover the million or so age/heat cracks which covered every blue section.
Here's a close up:
IMG_0345.jpg
My original intention for the boat was to cut off the damaged deck and fit a laid beech/mohogany deck, which you'd expect to see on a Chriscraft of Riva. I was going to modify the topsides to get radical tumble-home and a really attractive 50's sheer line, but in the light of day, I decided to do a standard rebuild, which I now regret.
Re-glassed rear deck, engine well and transom. Epoxy , of course...
IMG_0379.jpg IMG_0380.jpg
The blue material over the new glass work is peel ply, which I use a lot to help consolidate epoxy and keep contaminates off the job.
Next was 1st bog coat - epoxy and micro balloons:
IMG_0386.jpg
Sands really well and easy to get very fair.
I then pulled the old gunnel rubber off as it needs tocome off to spray the hull, and as I was mucking about with that, I decided to knock up a quick wave breaker to see what it would look like.
All the Haines boys on Facebook go nuts over the wave breaker modification, so I had a play:
IMG_0390.jpg IMG_0391(1).jpg IMG_0393(1).jpg
I quickly re-bent an old bow rail I had taking up space and it seems to balance the front deck with the rest of the boat:
IMG_0403(1).jpg
The wave breaker was knocked up in 3mm MDF and a few bits of 5mm ply, so it's very temporary.
I really like the shape, and I think can do something special with the dash area.
If I go ahead with it, I'll either do it in foam or duflex (balsa cored glass panels from FGI, or whatever they call themselves now).
Or I may get all keen and make a mold and pop out a breaker in poly glass. That way, I can incorporate the new dash assembly which should make life a lot easier.
Or maybe do something else...
We'll see...
Hey Giddy the 1600SO has the old engine on it probably not doing it any favours, im sure if u showed potentioal buys you're whole build pictures you could pick up a buyer this coming summer i doubt anything will sell in winter
90% of the market wants cheap that last 10% want perfection and they will pay top dollar however i reckon that engine is the let down
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Hi all.
I got a bit done in the last few days...
I got epoxy bog onto the aft deck/engine well/transom and sanded it off. Re- bogged low spots and resanded:
IMG_0462.jpg IMG_0463.jpg
Got it pretty close to right, then sprayed 2 good coats of Jotun Penguard Hibuild undercoat:
IMG_0468.jpg
It sanded up pretty good and should only need 1 more coat to get it right, so I got stuck into the hull and topsides.
Speed board with 120 grit dry to prep the surface and I discovered a lot of pre-existing damage that the filth was hiding.
Nothing for it but to grind out the offending areas and glass over with 220gsm cloth and epoxy then bog up and fair.
The damage was caused by impacts over the years (topsides), and use with rotten stringers (hull).
Also, a ton of scrapes and gouges around the bow and keel areas, caused by years of carelessly loading onto the trailer and not giving a rats ass about an old boat and dragging it over rocks...
But it's all fixed now.
Sanded and problem areas identified:
IMG_0473.jpg
Problem areas ground out:
IMG_0477.jpg IMG_0478.jpg
Glassed, bogged faired:
IMG_0485.jpg IMG_0484.jpg
Sprayed with 2 coats of Hi-build and Guide coated in preparation for sanding.
IMG_0487.jpg
Wet sanded with 240 grit wet and dry:
IMG_0490.jpg
It is now ready for spot preparations for top coat.
There are always a million or so pin holes which the sprayed high-build can't fill, so it has to be done by hand.
Also, there are the odd few low spots that need to be addressed.
The entire hull/topsides/transom/engine well/rear deck will then get another couple of coats of high build, which should come up fair enough to top coat.
So lots of sanding to look forward to, but that is how a really good finish is achieved.
Hopefully, I wont muck it up!
More soon.
Great job.
Well done
What could go wrong.......................
Good job Giddy u sure have a lot of patients to sand full glass instead of boggin
Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app
Hi all.
I've been quietly plugging away at the little Haines so here's the update.
When we left off, the hull had just been put into high build.
I still hadn't made a decision what to do with the deck layout, but in any event the hull needed to get painted, so I prepared the transom to guarantee against later rot.
IMG_0590(1).jpg
I oversize drilled where all of the through timber penetrations were going to be, then filled the holes with epoxy glue. When the glue had gone off rock hard, it was all dressed up nicely and the actual penetrations were drilled through the cured epoxy.
There is 0% chance of any water getting into the timber transom through those penetrations.
Next, the hull was further prepped and finally painted:
IMG_0594.jpg IMG_0598.jpg
I still wasn't sure what I wanted to do with the deck, and finally decided to re-glass it, as that was the only way to repair the sun crazing.
IMG_0613.jpg
1st step - lose all of the blue gelcoat:
IMG_0615(1).jpg
Then glass with epoxy and 400D/B
IMG_0622.jpg
Add a bit of bog and a lot of sanding:
IMG_0631(1).jpg IMG_0650.jpg
Hi build:
IMG_0671.jpg
So it's basically ready to paint and wack a screen on and finish, when, in late August, I decided that there are too may standard 146R's about and I needed to do something special, so I went with the wave breaker.
The front face is 3 laminates of 4mm marine ply (epoxy glued) and the sides are solid 9mm marine ply, all then glassed with 400D/B and permanently glassed to deck
IMG_0714.jpg
The dash was totally wrong, so I cut the old dash out and made a mound for a more suitable item. It sits a lot higher in the boat to compliment the driving position:
IMG_0719.jpg IMG_0727.jpg
See next post - reached photo limit...
Glassed in new dash gussets:
IMG_0741.jpg
Glassed in and bogged dash and spray deflector:
IMG_0767.jpg
Faired and high build:
IMG_0780.jpg IMG_0781.jpg
Painted:
IMG_0798.jpg IMG_0799.jpg IMG_0800.jpg
I then did a lot of work on the trailer, added override disc brakes, replaced rusted sections, replaced wheels and tyres, strengthened draw bar, rewired and added LED lights - all the usual things...
Repainted and fitted motor, put boat onto refurbished trailer, added hydraulic steering:
IMG_0758.jpg IMG_0830.jpg
Fitted new gunwhale rubber and chine tape:
IMG_0856.jpg
Last grind of interior glass, flow coated hull sides and rear tank well, applied fleck, fitted nav lights, anchor light, battery and kill switch, membrane switch panel, fuel system, control box and all associated wiring and cables, depth sounder and finished wiring:
IMG_0868.jpg
Just need to paint non-skid floor, fit plumb and wire bilge pump and switch, mount transducer, mount rod holders and deck cleats and bow roller, and finally, go for a test drive!
999999999999999999
nice work raising the dash , looks heaps better what a little weapon its turning out to be. how the glass go around the corners ok of the wave breaker , was just a router round bit enough or bit more to it cheers , top job giddy been thinking about the dash job on mine , good ideas cheers
Actually, I just used the grinder to put a nice radius on the corner and cleaned it up with the speed board with 60 grit. It's really easy to get it fair with ply, as the different laminates act as a guide.Originally Posted by catshark
The 400D/B can take a fairly tight corner and the peel ply keeps it all under pressure, so outside corners rarely lift.
In all, the wave breaker was a lot of fun to make and not all that difficult. Just getting the proportions right was a bit challenging, but I think it looks pretty right. The boot-topping and gunnel stripe balanced it better and I'm sure that a bow and cockpit rails will help it visually as well.
I don't think a bimini is going to work too well, but I just took delivery of an eBay bimini for my son's Seafarer Ventura, so we may have a bit of a play with that on the little Haines first...
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote