Haines V146R rebuild thread

[giddyup58]

nice work giddy, after reading your progress i feel more confidence if ever i have to tackle a transom repair , still thinking about those girders holy they looked tricky,

Go for it. Nothing too difficult. You can almost scribe the new girder off the one you take out.

[giddyup58]

hi all

Had a good few hours in the little Haines.

Glassed in under floor bulkheads:
IMG_0296.jpg

Removed the keel after the bulkheads had set. They hold shape of hull.
IMG_0299.jpg

Huge grind to prep the keel area in the Hull, dry fit new keel, glass new keel to hull:
IMG_0304.jpg

Notice that the rear fuel tank floor has been scribed, fitted and glassed underneath.
Limber holes have been drilled either side of the keel to front and rear bulkheads and the timber has been sealed with Everdure.

If I can borrow a ute tomorrow, I can probably get the floors down over the weekend.

Then we can start making it pretty...

[gazza2006au]

Good work Giddy i like what u generally do with your bilge areas

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

Not a lot to report today.

Mucked about a bit this morning to get 2 sheets of 1/2" marine ply for the floor, and didn't actually get started until just before midday.

Took a bit to get right and thankfully all the stringers were the correct height, so it actually fitted perfectly after a few hours of scribing and trimming.
The most economical way to do it was in 4 pieces, given that the width of the floor was 1410mm and not 1220mm, which is the width of a sheet. Of course, the floor overall is a little under 2400mm.
So I cut 1 piece 1410 x 1220 from 1 sheet and another piece 1410 x 600 from the other. I'm sure to find a use for the left over ply...

Anyhoo, I put temporary cleats on the top at the joins, removed it in one piece from the boat and glassed its bottom, laying a full cover of 450gsm choppy and 300wide 450gsm D/B on the 3 joins.
IMG_0305.jpg IMG_0306.jpg

Should be good to fit the floor tomorrow if it's not raining.

Then, I can glass in the front and rear floors, make and fit a new toe board and aside from refitting the rear deck, the boat will be finished structurally.

Refitting the aft deck will be a bit technical, because I usually modify how they are fitted to add great strength to the transom. Usually, my boats are at the very top (or over) the hull's rated power. Given that this hull is (apparently) very happy with a 70hp, I may not go to all that trouble...

But i probably will...

[The Mad Cat]

Giddyup you make it sound so straight forward and relatively easy, which I admire. I am impressed with your knowledge and especially your can do attitude.
I have 3 blokes on staff who can and will do almost anything work wise (2 carpenters and a fitter/machinest) all in there 50's and all have done lots of other jobs in their working life. But mention a bit of fiberglassing and their eyes glaze over and they start scratching and look for a reason to not be there having a conversation with me.
So hats off to you Giddyup and everybody else who takes on these projects.

TMC

[Noelm]

I guess it's kind of like most things, some people have good basic skills that allow them to do a range of tasks, some are experts in one field only, some people can't even use a screw driver, doing boats seems to almost come natural to Giddyup, and he does a damn good job.

[giddyup58]

Thank you gentlemen for your kind remarks.

The rain Gods were kind of nice today. Brief showers at lunchtime, and beaut sunshine in the afternoon, which let me get those pesky floors down.

Spent the morning preparing the floors, Most notably, I epoxied 400 x 400 x 15mm marine ply backers under the floor where the seat pedestals will go.
That way, coach screws can be used to hold the seats down.
It's certainly a lot neater to put them under the floor if possible.
It also leaves the door open to run either pedestal seats or built in bench seat or back to back's.

The floors all went down without too much fuss.
I managed to get the 3 floors epoxied onto the keel and stringers, screwed down where possible, and poly bogged the floor edges to the hull, making it all nice and level.

I wanted to have a bit better play with the bog tomorrow, so I left the front and cockpit floors to set properly overnight, and glassed in the rear floor, where the fuel tank and bilge pump will live:
IMG_0307.jpgIMG_0309.jpg IMG_0308.jpg

Next jobs are to glass over the front and cockpit floors, to fit a toe board and to then refit the engine well/back deck.

Then, but for cosmetics, it will be structurally complete.

I'm almost tempted to just put the motor on it and offer it for sale, as I can see another 2 months getting it to be a perfect restoration, a`la my Haines 1600 SO.
I don't think I'm going to be knocked over in the rush for a refurbished 14'6" Haines runabout.

If it is completed structurally, the motor is on and boat and trailer are registered and perform well, it should be worth in excess of $6,000 and the buyer can decide what he wants to do with it, be it CC, wave breaker, fly fisher or nice little runabout.

[gazza2006au]

Giddy with your expertease there is quiet a bit of money u could make on the side from doing these renos not meaning to take on other peoples boats but buy them rebuild and resell

I reckon people would favor your professionallisim approch

Epoxy is a good selling point it shows u dont skimp on cost and buy the best..

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

[giddyup58]

Didn't get much done today, but the hours surely flew past!

I wanted to get the floors glassed, so I started with the front under deck floor.
As soon as that was done, I decided to get the toe board in as well, to finish the structural work at that end of the boat. (Still need to flow coat or whatever).
That darn toe board took quite a while, as I followed the original lines exactly and it looked awful. A fair bit of fettling and it looks a lot better:
IMG_0320(1).jpg

I then went on to glass the cockpit floor, when I found an off-cut of the demolition process and realised I'd missed a pair of transom
stiffeners. I don't quite understand it, but it sucked up nearly 3 hours before they were epoxied in place:
IMG_0321.jpg

So the big job for tomorrow is to glass the cockpit floor, however there is a slight problem - with no tank void down the centre of the boat, it took a while to work out how to lay 3 layers of wet glass without standing in the job....

I'll have to cut down a 3" sleeper and set it on top of the outboard stiffener boxes, where the grinder is on the photo below and its companion stiffener, and slide it back and forward as necessary:
IMG_0304.jpg

Still, that's a bit iffy...
I suppose i could do it from outside the boat with long handles on roller and consolidator...

Who knows? I'll see what happens tomorrow...

[gazza2006au]

Giddy i know u must be pulling your hair out over the toe board it does look odd but once u paint it and fleck it the odd look should settle in i wouldnt let it worry u to much

All this work your blistering thru i bet you sleep well at night lucky bugger

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

It was nice to have a couple of days off, but boats do not get done that way, so into it again today.

I had to make up new floors at the aft end, given that I forgot to put the transom stiffening knees in earlier.
So the floors were all glassed in with the knees and it all looks quite sturdy...
I put in doubler pads to carry battery/VRO tank.
IMG_0325.jpg

The floor copped a quick grind to key the surface, and I laid 450gsm choppy followed by 450gsm double bias and topped off with a layer of peel ply.
That fills all the gaps in the glass and protects the surface from contaminates.
It's usually used in epoxy boat construction, but work really well with poly where the finish is important.
IMG_0331(1).jpg

Apart from reinstating the back deck/engine well, the boat is done structurally.

When you consider that the fiberglass repair shops charge upward of $10,000 (correct me if I'm wrong), for replacement transom, girders and floors, I reckon we're looking pretty good...

I spent a couple of hours grinding the rear deck to prepare it for reattachment, but I had to address the crazing problem with the deck.
The only way to fix it is to grind all of the gel-coat off and re-glass. I usually use 220gsm surfboard mat, as it is super easy to use with epoxy, of which, a little bit goes a very long way.
IMG_0329(1).jpg IMG_0333.jpg

Also, some goose attacked the combing (is that how it's spelled?) with a cutoff wheel, so, depending on what I decide to do with the boat, that will need to be repaired as well.

The 50 litre fuel tank fits nicely and there's plenty of room for battery, oil tank, bilge pump and fuel filter/water trap.

[gazza2006au]

Looking extremely presented Giddy yeah the thicker the cloth the harder it is to work with as epoxy is so thick, i bet that surfboard tissue like cloth wet out so bloody nice and easy

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

[giddyup58]

Hi all.

Had a productive weekend. Not much else to do I suppose...

I decided to modify the transom well in order to make the transom stronger.
That necessitated raising the well floor 75mm, which, when properly glassed in, will give a lot more strength.

First, I had to scribe some 3mm MDF to the shape of the new floor, lay up a glass panel and get it to fit:
IMG_0336.jpg Like this.

I then glassed it in from the top, removed the rear deck again, and trimmed the old floor off:
IMG_0337(1).jpg

I then decided to repair the front face of the rear deck where it had been attacked and hacked up, and reinstated the glass combing profile.
You can see I repurposed an original piece of glass
Once back together, I fitted it in position in order to permanently attach:
IMG_0341(1).jpg IMG_0338(1).jpg

After a bit of grinding and bogging, it was all good to glass in, so I started in the well:
IMG_0339(1).jpg IMG_0340.jpg

That was enough, so I'll finish the glassing tomorrow.

[gazza2006au]

Giddy how are u rubbing back to bare glass like that? I need to remove the gelcoat on both sides of my hull i have tried with the orbital sander but it takes many many hours and u hardly make much progress

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

[giddyup58]

Giddy how are u rubbing back to bare glass like that? I need to remove the gelcoat on both sides of my hull i have tried with the orbital sander but it takes many many hours and u hardly make much progress

Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

51/2" angle grinder with 24 grit.
About 11/2 hours to do both sides. 4 discs.

You wouldn't do that in 2 days with an orbital.