Thanks Fed thats exactly where its leaking from on the inside, i had all that off yesterday minus the wiper motor, tried looking for the leak but couldnt see anythingOriginally Posted by Fed
Windscreen still needs to come.off tho unless i can squeeze some sand paper in the gap to sand the bog
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The rust is under the seal u cant see it unless u lift up the windscreen seal which a mechanic would be liable for damages so they dont touch it
Just fixed my idler pulley i pressed in a Niche bearing cost $12 new pulley would have been $30+ 3-4 day wait and it would likely be Chinese rubbish
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Gazza, I would get, maybe 3 in 10 older cars with rust in the arperture, caused by many reasons, but the main one is when wind screens are replaced.
The arperture gets scratched down to bare metal if you don't know what your doing, then the remnants of the thermo tapes or Urathane are usually scraped out with a chisel which will cause bare metal to be exposed. By not using the right stuff on installation, it will rust. We even had instances where the metal mouldings in some vehicles would move and vibrate and cause the issue over time and crap blocking ip weep holes aound and under the mouldings, Fords seem to be the worst for this for some reason.
All I can say is, if you go down the path of removing the screen, be prepared for a complete re do and weld up of the arperture surround,,, once the water is coming in, it's either seal failure ( urathane) or it's rusted out, believe me, I've seen the worst,,,, Imagine, a person comes in with a leaking windscreen, or a cracked one, and comments it's been leaking for a while, only to find when it's removed, they are without a car for a week and a couple of thousand to repair the rust, Not a good situation. The fords did have major issues with rusting out in the bottom corners quite badly, so you could well open up a huge birds nest here. Once started, they seem to rust out pretty quick....
I understand that is a pain in the arse to have a leaking windscreen, BUT, this could turn out to be another project type exercise that keeps opening up cans of worms.. If you do decide to have a go at it, my opinion before of getting someone in for a $100 to remove it, is a good move. If you can weld everything up yourself and do the rust repairs, all good, but generally, from what I've experienced, it doesn't end there...
If I was close by, I would come whip it out for you, it would only take 15-20 minutes going carefully, but to far away for that sorry......
Just one thing to add, It very well may be coming in thru the rust holes in the roof, take the inside cowling pieces off on the sides and see if you can see it tracking down on the inside or not, However, it may have rust holes up there, but, it can track around the inside of the mouldings, all around the screen, and cause rust issues down lower, especially on the one piece grill type section on the bottom.
Start by putting a hose, around the wiper motor area, in fact tie the hose there, pointing it left or right, and leave hose on it for 10 minutes, swap and do the other side, if you get water coming in, then yes you have rust at the top, but the biggest issue will be bottom arperture..
Col
Hey Col i used a 10L bucket filled with water and flooded the well area on both sides, only the inside under yhe dash on passengers side had a small leak about 5 drops
I think instead of poking a stick at a bag of shit im going to leave the windscreen in i do have a gap between the top edge of windscreen and the rotted hole probably 15mm i can easily wire wheel the hole than bog sand and paint just thought since the car is a old classic i would do it the right way
It did cross my mind i may have yhe windscreen removed and the entire thing is rotted that would be a nightmare that i want to avoid
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Yeah, I think that's a better plan Gazza, look, if classic car rebuilding is what you are into, then that's fine, but this old girl is for towing your boat, so maybe just do what you were going to do, and monitor it for a later job....
I found a 1960 mk 2 zephyr sittin on the side of a road about 20 year ago, couldn't resist it, payed the $200 to an elderly lady and got it towed to my shed. It hadn't been driven in 10 odd years, but within a couple of hours she was paddock bashing around my acreage. Then, the silly decision to restore the old girl. the mechanical side of it was relatively straight forward, full motor and auto re done, diff, suspension, could even get the old lever armstrong suspension reconditioned, it was purely a toy to play with....... BUT, the body work and the amount of coin I thru at that, was worse than my current boat rebuild, once ya start, there's no easy end to it. I know that this was a lot older than your new vehicle, but there comes a time when you just accept what you have or the serious coin starts interferring with your other projects. I sold the old Mk 2 to a bloke in Perth, he flew over and drove her back, I wasn't emotionally attached to it, I got serious money for it, but not if you add up the hours spent, I did it, cause I could scenario.
So Gazza, treat the car as your boat tower and local run around machine, keep it road worthy and don't start throwing coin at it to make it into that silk purse, so when you sell it to upgrade, you wont loose money on un necessary expendature......
Just my view,,,,,,,,,
Now get back on to it with the trailer that's waiting for you........
Col
Yeah totally understand Col when i removed the WS seal it all looks black and dirty but the metal looks rust free maybe it gave me false hope that where the silicone goes will all be.perfect and i thought it would just be along the top section
But the last thing i wanna do is play in the bulls yard... once ya half way over the fence your committed
I will look after her as moderatly as i can but dont want any projects that take weeks or months
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I lost a lot of motivation when i started seeing perfectly good steel trailers selling for $1100-$1200 but shit happens i have regretted building my own trailer for months and months now but im committed i guess thats why i have been building it slowly that and i only get a decent amount of cash ever so often to buy the parts the two financial struggle points have passed now i just need the pick me up motivation
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yeah the LTD will get the job done, longer wheel base a comfy ride gas/petrol gives you options at the wallet .. dont know much about gas cars but i heard a urban myth that you cruise around on gas and do the towing with petrol as the petrol will give you a bit better torque but yeah unsure
your doing best to build your own alloy trailer. less maintences in the long term equals savings
wadda ya reckon stick a go pro on the arse end of the LTD and show us a video of the dat fat 302 windsor talking
Haha came thru a roundabout gave her a squirt she just bit down and locked in
When i first got her she had a slipery ass end might have been from sitting so long
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After i flushed the wells the other day i left the tarp off last night thru a fast moving storm it bucketted down i went and chrcked the car it only had a 10cm radius wet spot on drivers floor so i am thinking maybe the wells were clogged and it was allowing water to back up and flow thru the bolts Fed mentioned
She is eating drive belts has 2 worn in boot and 3rd one on car that is cracked and squeeking $40 a belt too not cheap
She had one headlight blow a few nights ago just got a replacement, looked into hid and led but both are illegal dont want my insurance to say something about it
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that equals 25 months!
Took the car for a scrub tonight wow she came up bloody impressively clean i used the brush with soap than high pressure washer, wherls cleaned up really well so much the polished ally came back in some sections
Couldnt get the bat shit off tho sticky like tar but a clear yellow'ish poo u have to pick off and i wasnt doing that
Jacked her up today to find the wheel squeek on passengers side back brakes are really low and possibly the cause along with the faulty drive belt both hopefully getting replaced tomorrow
There were no leaks inside while washing the car not a drop
Erics 2019 surely u could work that out rather than correct me
Wish i had never takin on the trailer project
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LPG will definitely cause a power loss in the older motors, as well as the actual fuel consumption being higher. The last run of LPG engines Ford did, factory fitted, it was said you couldn't tell the difference. I had an XR6, 92 model, that I had converted to dual fuel when the WA gov. was giving subsidies. It was definitely slower on gas. In fact, on a fast ovetake , I would flick the switch to petrol for more go. The overall running costs are less as the stuff is cheaper per litre, but you will definitely get less kilometres out of a litre. I missed your actual purchase--you mentioned LTD, was it a 6 or an 8? Ford sixes were renowned for loving LPG, the 8's, much less so.
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