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  1. #121

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Quote Originally Posted by blacklab View Post
    Got some time in this morning before duties called.
    Managed to get some reasonable soldering in, they don't give you much wire out the back of these switches to play with !.
    Anyways, soldering came up ok, used the double wall glue heat shrink, sneaked it home to use the wife's u-bute hair dryer .
    Then sat there and realised, I had bought 4 meters of sheathed triple wire, for the switch back to the bilge pump float switch..... Bugga...
    Is there a huge benefit in re doing it with the triple sheathed stuff I had originally got ? this wire I've used now, will be in a conduit going back down to the bilge area, I would have to remove the sheathing down back anyway to reach the bilge and the float switch,, I'd rather used what I have since there's not much spare on the back of the switch itself.. yep idiot... If I did use the existing, would it be good practice, to use a double wall glue heat shrink, over each wire in the bilge area itself, In other words, my bilge area is maybe 500 deep, so using the heat shrink on this entire length that could come in contact with water, rather than just the solder joint it self ? I suppose it would also give extra abrasion resistance ???? or just re do it using the triple sheath stuff......

    Col
    Just use what you have done and put it in some loom tube for mechanical protection. That's basically all the second sheath is. Down the back make sure each wire is waterproofed individually. I normally put two layers of the dual wall on - second longer than the first and make sure the joins are secured in an area that will not be subject to water on a regular basis - I normally secure as high on the inside of the transom as wire length allows.

    Most boats from the factory (in SE QLD at least) don't use twin sheathed cable. They make up looms to length and tube them. That's how they end up with all the different colours at the switch panel for easy identification. It's really only the custom builds that get wired in a similar fashion as an aftermarket wire up.

  2. #122

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Hi Scott, Yeah, I'll leave it as it is, Just wasn't thinking what I had already bought..
    Still not 100 % on the soldering, Or maybe I'm just fussy LOL, but confident now to do the main connections of what I'm doing...
    I haven't colour coded anything, their labelled at the fuse and switch panels and should be pretty easy to trace how I'm laying it out. I could add wire labels I guess, which can be added at any time. And yes, Everything will be in loom tubes of some type. I can run my wires down, under the gunwale on the sides, and my inside of the transom I can run the wires in a loom tube to right above where the bilge and float switch will be positioned...Thanks for the tip on doubling the heat shrink, great idea...
    Found a supplier of LED rigid light bars, you get them in a pack of 4 about 350 long with wired at each end to connect in series. Was trying to find them a bit longer than this, but couldn't seem to find any. It should work out OK i think, I'll run 4 down each side linked. My hangers aren't really evenly spaced down each side, So I'm just trying to work out the best way to mount them other than using there 3m adhesive method, I'll work something out.
    SLOWLY making progress...

    Col

  3. #123

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Just attach a length of something to the hangers or through the hangers and then attach the lights to that. I've used alloy angle on mine but a length of electrical conduit is as good as anything and can be flexed easily to get it in place. The lights are available on Ebay. Supercheap also used to sell them up to a metre long but they were pricey compared to Ebay

    https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...white&_sacat=0

  4. #124

    Re: electrickery help needed

    If you've got one of those labelling machines I'd be labelling all my cables. It's surprising how a couple of meters from the termination how you can't figure out which cable is which. I've started to put a label every time there is s change un direction etc, saved a lot of headaches trying to trace them back.

  5. #125

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Haven't got one of those labelling machine Dignity, But I see how it could be of benefit....
    Might just keep my eyes open for something, I can easily label at any stage.......

    Scott, Thanks for that link. I think that idea of sliding something like a conduit through the hangers would work. It rises up sharply getting near the helm, beside the seat, which would be ideal to light up as well, so a conduit of sorts would flex up there, then screw and glue the LED's on the underside of that. I was reluctant to try and attach by hanging them underneath, but I could just zip tie them in place to the hangers once passed thru.
    Cheers, I just have to get these things into my head properly before I start things .

    Col

  6. #126

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Conduit can easily be shaped by using a heat gun if need be too.

  7. #127

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Quote Originally Posted by scottar View Post
    Conduit can easily be shaped by using a heat gun if need be too.
    Thanks Scott, didn't even think of that, off to Bunnings today, so will have a wee look for some there, perfect idea....

    Col

  8. #128

    Re: electrickery help needed

    I have had a forced break from the boat the last month or two, a friend of mine, kind of a mentor is liquidating some of his vintage British bikes and his pride and joy a 37 AJS decided to throw a rod, so at 88 yo I felt the need to help him with his rebuild,, Well, he's near blind, so it was more of me doing it and him still treating me like the apprentice. I have a decision to make, a new 4 stroke, or delay and buy his prized possession, Dont think her indoors would approve some how, it took me near 2 years to pursuade her the out board just had to be up graded LOL, But there wouldn't be to many of these left around, simply amazing riding it, 1000cc gear stick change and astonishing power for an 80 plus year old machine.......

    So, back to the boat and all things Electrikery, Have made aluminium blocks up, to inturn screw the cable carrier to then urathane to the cabin walls to route the wires to the switch panel, I also will do the same for both aeriel cables cables as well.

    1) Is it better to run the aerial cable, separate to the Nav light wires, or are they fine to run them on the same cable tie/carriers, any interferrence ??

    2) I have way to much cable length for the aerials, on the passenger side I only need to go less that 400mm, so I will have near 2 meters over, is it ok just to coil the excess cable up ?, I didn't want to cut the cables and re connect the end plug, or is it best to do that ??


    Col

  9. #129

    Re: electrickery help needed

    First point - normally yes. 99.9 percent of the time there will be no interference. 0.1 percent of the time you will chase an intermittant VHF fault for weeks before you figure out that the you beaut Hella anchor light is using a switch mode power supply to drop it's voltage that is as noisy as hell and is totally killing the VHF reception.............ask me how I know.

    Second point - there are a few variables. Some antennas use the cable at a tuned length - cutting basically will stuff the antenna so as a general rule, unless you can prove otherwise - don't cut the cable the antenna was supplied with. Plenty of people do just coil the cable. Personally I prefer to run it down under the gunwale and then back again. There are arguments for not coiling the cable but whether the theory involved causes sufficient signal issues in practice is not something I have tested. One type of thing I generally do try to keep VHF cables away from is networking cables and hubs as can be found with a lot of the modern MFD multi-station set ups. I've seen some horror interference issues on particular boats with large set ups over the years with various brands of networking. It's not every installation though so it's hard to predict.

  10. #130

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Hi Scott, thanks for that. I can easily do a run under the Gunwale and back both sides, so that would sure be better than coiling it up and trying to tuck it away somewhere....
    I may take a different route with the helm side antenna cable, I may go up and over the underside of the cabin roof, that would be well clear of of the main cluster of wires behind the helm area in the cabin. Your trick of screwing the plastic cable holders to a block of aluminium and then urathaning that to where you want to route the wires works great, good tip Scott. I'll get some Pic's up as soon as I've routed and attached the Nav light wires and the antenna cable.
    Slow progress....

    Col

  11. #131

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Col u need to touch black wire and red wire on tongue at same time its a cure and lasting remedy for corona virus haha

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Ausfish mobile app

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