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Just use what you have done and put it in some loom tube for mechanical protection. That's basically all the second sheath is. Down the back make sure each wire is waterproofed individually. I normally put two layers of the dual wall on - second longer than the first and make sure the joins are secured in an area that will not be subject to water on a regular basis - I normally secure as high on the inside of the transom as wire length allows.Originally Posted by blacklab
Got some time in this morning before duties called.
Managed to get some reasonable soldering in, they don't give you much wire out the back of these switches to play with !.
Anyways, soldering came up ok, used the double wall glue heat shrink, sneaked it home to use the wife's u-bute hair dryer .
Then sat there and realised, I had bought 4 meters of sheathed triple wire, for the switch back to the bilge pump float switch..... Bugga...
Is there a huge benefit in re doing it with the triple sheathed stuff I had originally got ? this wire I've used now, will be in a conduit going back down to the bilge area, I would have to remove the sheathing down back anyway to reach the bilge and the float switch,, I'd rather used what I have since there's not much spare on the back of the switch itself.. yep idiot... If I did use the existing, would it be good practice, to use a double wall glue heat shrink, over each wire in the bilge area itself, In other words, my bilge area is maybe 500 deep, so using the heat shrink on this entire length that could come in contact with water, rather than just the solder joint it self ? I suppose it would also give extra abrasion resistance ???? or just re do it using the triple sheath stuff......
Col
Most boats from the factory (in SE QLD at least) don't use twin sheathed cable. They make up looms to length and tube them. That's how they end up with all the different colours at the switch panel for easy identification. It's really only the custom builds that get wired in a similar fashion as an aftermarket wire up.
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Just attach a length of something to the hangers or through the hangers and then attach the lights to that. I've used alloy angle on mine but a length of electrical conduit is as good as anything and can be flexed easily to get it in place. The lights are available on Ebay. Supercheap also used to sell them up to a metre long but they were pricey compared to Ebay
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...white&_sacat=0
If you've got one of those labelling machines I'd be labelling all my cables. It's surprising how a couple of meters from the termination how you can't figure out which cable is which. I've started to put a label every time there is s change un direction etc, saved a lot of headaches trying to trace them back.
How many threads, have gone thru there entirety, with out one of the redneck flogs, stuffing it up ???? not to many
Conduit can easily be shaped by using a heat gun if need be too.
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First point - normally yes. 99.9 percent of the time there will be no interference. 0.1 percent of the time you will chase an intermittant VHF fault for weeks before you figure out that the you beaut Hella anchor light is using a switch mode power supply to drop it's voltage that is as noisy as hell and is totally killing the VHF reception.............ask me how I know.
Second point - there are a few variables. Some antennas use the cable at a tuned length - cutting basically will stuff the antenna so as a general rule, unless you can prove otherwise - don't cut the cable the antenna was supplied with. Plenty of people do just coil the cable. Personally I prefer to run it down under the gunwale and then back again. There are arguments for not coiling the cable but whether the theory involved causes sufficient signal issues in practice is not something I have tested. One type of thing I generally do try to keep VHF cables away from is networking cables and hubs as can be found with a lot of the modern MFD multi-station set ups. I've seen some horror interference issues on particular boats with large set ups over the years with various brands of networking. It's not every installation though so it's hard to predict.
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Col u need to touch black wire and red wire on tongue at same time its a cure and lasting remedy for corona virushaha
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If you only need cable ID for the rough in do you need anything fancy ?
Just my 5c - can't get 2c anymore.
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