Page 6 of 18 FirstFirst 12345678910111213141516 ... LastLast
Results 76 to 90 of 257

Thread: electrickery help needed

  1. #76

    Re: electrickery help needed

    deleted personal infol

  2. #77
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne

    electrickery help needed

    Hi Col, it looks to me like you’d have to run a dedicated (red and black) circuit straight from the live/battery side of your main isolation switch for the bilge pump, the other end connect to the helm switch.
    Then you would have the bilge pump always powered (via the float switch) or you could manually operate it if required.

    Also re the usb outlet,
    I would be having a look at any (if you got any,,,) data that came with the usb outlet. To see if the usb outlet has any current limiting features built in.
    Other than that it’s just going to be like any other 12volt charging port/ciggy lighter style outlet 10 amps usually or 20amps or whatever the supply cable and outlet are rated to.
    Unless you are worried about charging usb devices too fast ? Which is not ideal, but in reality this usb “stuff” is more than likely superseded in 1-2 years, so all that care we’ve taken is for nothing ? What I mean is phones and iPads and whatever else usually gets replaced before the battery dies anyway,,,



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #78
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Sorry Col just reread your post and you said the USB ports are next to it ? So is it all one unit ? The ciggy charger and the dual usb is all in one ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #79

    Re: electrickery help needed

    personal property photo's deleted

  5. #80

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Bilge pump. Yes you are correct. If you want to have a 24 hour live bilge pump regardless of where the battery switches are at, you will need an independent feed taken either from a battery directly or taken from the "hot" side of the relevant battery switch. This is where we get into the realms of "there is no right or wrong way - just the way you want to do it". Personally, I have two battery switches - one for start / parallel and one for house. If I want my pump to be live through the float switch, my house battery must be switched on. My boat will never be left anywhere in the water unattended - the furtherest I will ever be away from it would be on the beach and I have no issue with leaving the house circuit live in this situation. Others may have intention of leaving the boat overnight in a marina unattended at the berth. In that situation I would want to be able to leave just the bilge circuits live. Either way works in it's own way.

    The glass fuse - my opinion, put a bigger fuse in it that will mean the 7.5 at the fuse block will blow first or link it out with a soldered wire. Those screw type metal fuse holders need to be in a perfectly dry environment or regularly maintained with some sort of lubricant if they are subject to water - like on the dash of a boat with clears - or they seize to the point they will be broken trying to replace the fuse somewhere down the track. Murphy's law dictates this will be when you have either little time or no tools to deal with the situation. It also means the elimination of needing to carry another type of fuse as a spare. The circuit is protected as required at the 7.5 at the fuse block - it only needs one point of protection - unless you do end up running an independent 24 main - then you will need to move that fuse down the back.

    USB sockets - most USB sockets top out at 2.5 amps at 5 volts. Rough power consumption at 12 volts then not allowing for circuit efficiency is an amp each. If you wish to independently fuse the USB sockets from the cig socket, I would use a 3 or a 5 amp. The socket - it might say 20 - fuse it at 10 or 15. In very blunt language - they are shit and should never be used for a device that draws much more than 5 amps IMO. If you need a point for higher current devices like a portable oven or similar, install a 50 amp Anderson connector. There are some good flush mount kits for these available now or you can simply surface mount them under a dash edge where they are easy to get at but protected and out of sight.

  6. #81

    Re: electrickery help needed

    personal information deleted again

  7. #82
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Quote Originally Posted by blacklab View Post
    Ok, Actually found the info on his website, my apologies.
    What it sais, is that it has a true out put capacity of 2.1 amps ( 10.5 watts) from 1 socket.
    Correct output to charge your Ipad at full normal rate or 2- Iphones similtaneously.

    So I guess it's a 2.5 amp fuse then............

    Col
    Col is the usb outlet a double ?
    And are you going to fuse the usb side separately to the ciggy side ?
    Regardless I’d use a bigger fuse than 2.5amp.
    If you you do fuse the usb side separately allow for voltage drop and engine off scenarios where the voltage is under 13v. I’d put at least a 5amp just for the usb if it’s a dual one.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #83

    Re: electrickery help needed

    gone poof and disappeared

  9. #84

    Re: electrickery help needed

    deleted personal information

  10. #85

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Nope, every boat poses it's own challenges. When I put on a new motor and had to fit 4 new gauges where there used to be 5, I fitted a piece of black perspex to cover the holes but at the same time i needed to fibreglass in a panel behind the bulkhead to close off the holes etc. Problem is that no switches arr long enough to screw the retaining nut on so everything has to be a friction fit.

  11. #86

    Re: electrickery help needed

    Deleted personal info

  12. #87

    Re: electrickery help needed

    deleted all personal info

  13. #88
    Ausfish Gold Member 552Evo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne

    Re: electrickery help needed

    If you plan on using the one MFD for maps sonar and engine data (I do the same with an Evo-2) then it would be better to get as big a screen as would fit, so moving the 7” on and aiming for a 9” is better idea.
    Depending on what engine you’ve got - I’ve got a Merc, all I did was add an nmea2000 backbone and connected it all up and it displays all the engine data right on your screen. I added the backbone when I wanted to get fuel used data on my simrad, so I added a fuel flow sensor to the backbone and got all the data now.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #89

    Re: electrickery help needed

    deleted personal info

  15. #90

    Re: electrickery help needed

    InkedCols wiring_LI.jpgAttachment 120634Feel free to tell me to mind my own business Col but this is the way I would run the cables into your set up. About the only thing I would have done different thus far is to relocate the non switched fuse panel so it is under the switches to give you a bit more room down the starboard side of it. With switch panels and fuse blocks, best practice is to always run your cables up to them. Water will quite happily track down a cable group and into the back of a switch assembly if it gets in there.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Join us