Hi Col, it looks to me like you’d have to run a dedicated (red and black) circuit straight from the live/battery side of your main isolation switch for the bilge pump, the other end connect to the helm switch.
Then you would have the bilge pump always powered (via the float switch) or you could manually operate it if required.
Also re the usb outlet,
I would be having a look at any (if you got any,,,) data that came with the usb outlet. To see if the usb outlet has any current limiting features built in.
Other than that it’s just going to be like any other 12volt charging port/ciggy lighter style outlet 10 amps usually or 20amps or whatever the supply cable and outlet are rated to.
Unless you are worried about charging usb devices too fast ? Which is not ideal, but in reality this usb “stuff” is more than likely superseded in 1-2 years, so all that care we’ve taken is for nothing ? What I mean is phones and iPads and whatever else usually gets replaced before the battery dies anyway,,,
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