The budget is well and truly blown so I'm making do with my P66 instead of a B60 tilted element through hull. I put the P66 in a bag of water and checked how well it will work in various spots and it wont shoot through the planing plank but seems quite happy about 200 mm up the vee and about 500 mm forward of the transom.
So what's the best way of building a DIY wetbox? PVC pipe seems pretty common. How far off the glass do I mount the TD and how much glycol do I surround it by to keep it cool? The flow coat surface is pretty flat. Is it right to leave as is? Happy to hear any other tips as well.
Thanks
Craig
CT - I have a thru-hull transducer in my current boat. I was thinking if doing what your doing in my old boat but never got around to it.
I remember being told that it’s all about the bed your put the transducer on and the liquid you fill wet box with. Do some research.
I found this and it may be worth a read
https://www.stowemarine.com/Depth_In_Hull.pdf
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Box construction - whatever is easiest. Hard part with the p66 is the mounting but a right angle bracket off the lid is probably the easiest way. Flowcoat is fine - just needs to stick to whatever you use to glue the box in. If you do go with poly pipe, make sure you rough it up really well as sika and the like don't stick to pvc all that well. If you use a screw on lid be sure to rotate it backwards a few times before screwing it on so you don't over rotate the cable. Fluid - water works fine. No need for glycol unless subjected to freezing conditions. About the only fluid I have seen used that was common that can be a problem was vegetable oil. Seen a few cases where it killed transducers.
Distance off the glass doesn't matter within reason. Keep the tank full - no sloshing that way - stops any bubbles.
Thanks gents, good feedback. I might just make up a simple ply box, soak it in epoxy and sikka it to the bilge. I'll let you know how it goes.
Right, finally some progress to report.
I probably would have made the box with a 3d printer just to be
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Mercury 115ct going strong😁
I would use some high density foam if I was you that way it will never rot even if it does get wet
Hey Hi Craig. I mounted my P66 in a home made wet box.
Pretty well done exactly what you have done, but made out of some glass sheets we had laying around. Glued it in, made a lid with a bung. Filled with sea water the first day to see if it worked, and made sure there where no leaks. 5 or 6 years later, still has the same water in it, working well.
cheers
Rob
That's proper marine ply left over from a transom rebuild so by the time I epoxy the box together and coat all the exposed surfaces it will be fine. Should be right to take a few knocks too.Originally Posted by boatrower
Looks bloody good mate. Very neat. Not sure about a flush mount bung or putting it up a bit higher in the end of a poly pipe to allow any entrapped air a place to escape to and be easily removed. Can't decide between water and prop. coolant. Bit worried about stuff growing in water but if yours is working away happily, plus lots of other blokes just using water it might be the way to go.
for a quick and adjustable solution.
square poly gutter pipe use a flange stick it to the floor and screw the trans to the front edge use a level to get the angle spot on fill with auto trans fluid and sticka an end cap on top ........eazy mate.
BigE
Considered the poly but was too stupid to think about using square section so put it in the too hard basket! You still running one in hull?
Nah new boat has a TM260 and a side view trans,,,, Square poly and flange is an easy fix nice an flat to the floor and the trans just screws to the poly and you can play with the angle until you get a consistent good return on the screen. can't remember who advised trans fluid but it worked well.
And to wrap the thread up. It's in. It works. I'm happy. Clean reads at speed. That shot is 36 kph.
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