What a great idea. I have often thought their must be a better way. Does the plug allow for different wire sizes from those tiny sounder wires up to 20 amp cigarette sockets.
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Howdy all,
So my background pre marine industry was in aircraft and race cars, and one thing ive always thought was a bit lacking in the marine game was super tidy, safe wiring solutions behind the helm.
We wanted to have a plug and play , neat switching solution aimed at new builds and refits
We already produce high quality custom back lit panels, so with one of those as our base we created a waterproof all in one DC switch box
It contains all your fuses for up to 24 circuits, with both Pos/Neg coming out of one milspec waterproof connector.
The idea is that all your devices, Lights, pumps, horns, trim, sounders etc will all get loomed into one disconnecting plug with your house pos/negitive feeding to two studs.
Behind the helm will be left neat and tidy with a sexy glass bridge style switch panel, with out custom made 316 stainless switches 21amp 22mm .
Vessel names, graphics, etc can all be custom lazered to the face
We are working on smaller sizes
Price is $2000AUD free shipping aus wide
feel free to send through any questions you may have
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What a great idea. I have often thought their must be a better way. Does the plug allow for different wire sizes from those tiny sounder wires up to 20 amp cigarette sockets.
Sent from my [device_name] using Ausfish mobile app
Maturity is not when we start speaking BIG things,it is when we start understanding small things
May be on my next Riviera ill have 2 of them, something around $200 to $300 might get my attention but not $2000.
Sorry to do this to you Moose - a few questions due to having been well and truly bitten by somewhat similar products previously. Do you sell a pre terminated loom to allow easier connection than attempting to fit 24 wires into the back of the plug - doing it is way easier to say than actually do. How are changes to wiring done - pins easily removed from the plug or have to de-solder / re-solder - Murphy's law dictates it will always be a wire connected somewhere in the middle that needs to be changed out and doing it with the plug anchored face down on a bench is hard enough let alone under a dash with everything else neatly cut to length. Is there any electronic control "under the hood" or is it all mechanical (and thus serviceable). I have dealt with electronic switching modules previously - results ultimately being less than favourable at some point down the track. The switches look good - easily changeable in case of failure or does the whole module require replacement.
thats a serious bit of kit. looks neat and functional, i mean who doesnt like pushing buttons. if i had a nice boat i would definetly put one of these in.cheers
Yeah all good questions
So the system is all hardwired and mechanical. We use an industry standard heavy duty switch mechanism. "not micropin" all bench tested and warrantied upon construction. The kit is provided with a loom tail in mesh sheathing with labeled connectors at the end. So for DIY it's no more complicated than a good wire connection. All components are supplied with tool. I have a lot of experience with digital switching and for the most part they have been good. We have similar priced smaller swig h systems from the likes of blink. But we wanted to provide a more robust bulletproof mechanical option.
All components can be changed out. We can supply with resettable circuit breaker or traditional fuses. All fuse boxes get lazer etched to indicate what fuse is where.
On the subject of being able to access the back to change wires--You can easily avoid this by having your panel wired to an intermediate strip. Just pre-wire the panel on the workbench with tails long enough to get to where you mount the easily accessible strip, mount the panel, terminate them, then terminate your device feeds to the corresponding terminal on the strip. This is a much more professional and functional way of doing it--mucking around with wiring on the back of the panel, once installed, is a major PITA on most boats, and gets plain messy. The reason why the back of most switch panels is a dogs breakfast.
This is how I did my new boat, and it's a lifesaver-terminal strip is on the bulkhead in the cuddy, easy to see and get at, dry, and, as I discovered ,easy to reconfigure if you discover a stuffup. DAMHIK. Also makes it very easy for any fault finding, nice accessible test point.
Moose, are these actually an electronic switch panel, or are those push on/off buttons doing the actual switching? I would share Scottars concern if they are electronic, fine if they are actual physical switches. I use one of those on my boats to control a solenoid for a craypot winch electric capstan.
EDIT-Moose answered while I was typing
The fusebox is a good idea for some boats, impossible for others. If the rear of the dash panel is largely behind a bulkhead, as mine is ( shakes fist at Caribbean ), you need to mount everything on the bulkhead, behind, inside the cuddy. Which is an easy place to access, also clean and dry. Couldn't access that box. My fuse panels are there, so the pre-wired tails from my panel go Fuse-switch-intermediate strip-device. I would have liked those push on/off toggling switches for my new panel, but the price was a bit prohibitive, so I went with backlit rockers. Not as pretty.
Yeah depth is something we are considering, we have just finished a 2400 caribbean for the melbourne boat show and getting everthing neat and safe behind the helm took some tricky wiring layouts due to depth
we are looking to have a model with a bottom mounted plug system to aid in depth a bit, we are also looking to have the whole unit shrunk down through some clever manufacturing we have been looking into. should hopefully reduce the depth by 40% or so.
Good idea.
I reckon there is a market for a smaller and less expensive version is smaller open boats.
Lots of butchered wiring jobs with ugly fuse access. Often all in near and around the battery and fuel storage.
Hope it takes off for you Moose. Good to see Aussie business having a go!