Dirtyfuzz your kill switch is open to run and closed to kill, sort of fail safe to the running of the motor. Draw your own conclusions but an intermittent short circuit across the kill switch is highly unlikely IMO. Open circuit yes but they don't work that way.
It was defo the switch,not short circuiting as such! by throwing a multimeter on it to measure resistance sometimes it worked sometimes it didn’t ! As you know kill switches go to ground so their is no voltage present but the connections within the internals of switch at controls be it a spring etc has failed! I removed the kill switch and wired in a waterproof toggle switch for now at the controls to get out of trouble! Works great!Originally Posted by Fed
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Mercury 115ct going strong😁
Funny how the place where this boat was bought from or name has not been mentioned .
just watched a video of 115 yami overheating, flushed everyday with new thermostats, problem still existed so he took of the heads and talk about salt build up . inside was as crusty as a crusty can get. something i will consider if i buy a used outboard next time.
When the rubber shrinks u sir have a problem lol
Cat a couple of brothers im mates with own a 2004 115 yammie theuly never beach the boat always boat ramps they have never had this problem in 5 years i think they have put like 200 hours on it it gets used every weekend in summer because im with them most of the time
Depends on how and when flushed as to when it will happen but if it takes 10 years of salt use it will happen. $80 In gaskets and an hour later and job done. A small price to pay for what is, in my view, the most outstanding of the Yammy 2 stroke range. Cheers
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Boat: Seafarer Vagabond
Live: Great South East....love Moreton Bay fishing
It's a very common Yamaha fault, seen it manny, many times, and heard of it hundreds of times, almost all models are affected, they have lots of very small water passages, I am not 100% sure why they all do it at or above 4000 RPM though, you can sit on 3,800 for hours, I had a pair of 90s that did it, one lasted about a year more then the other, I wonder if it something to do with the poppet valve?
It could have been the CDI unit..probably my mistake, heard him wrong. He did say with a 2nd hand one. It wasn't on the invoice. They also adjusted the idle, my hubby (Dave) had adjusted it up because it stalls on idle, they adjusted it down again. We took it up the Bribie passage over the weekend, opened it up and while we have no more alarming issue, it kept stalling again, so hubby changed the idle back up. Will get new plugs this week, but you would think they would have fixed why it runs ruff on idle? And seems to be running ruffer in general.
Dave is not impressed that it seems they don't know what they are doing. Next problem we need to solve I guess.
I'm not about naming and shaming. True that the business that was selling it on behalf of the owner should have made sure it was mechanically sound before selling it to us but when we took it for a test run, how would we know the owner didn't take the heat sensors out just before? It was docked at his place of residence. We had to buy a trailer as it was docked. Regardless, naming the business is not going to solve the engine issues.
Cheers.
Running rough at idle is once again a pretty common Yamaha "feature" the carbs on those have very tiny passages in the carby body, if they are not 100% clean (not sprayed with some miracle stuff) and the butterflies are not fully closed, they will stall at idle, adjust the idle speed is not how to fix it, the speed adjustment adjusts the timing, that in turn moves the synching of the carb pickup points.
Thank you. Will let Dave know. Do you have suggestions on "miracle stuff" to clean them with?
No, I was being silly, there is no miracle stuff, but you can buy lots of snake oil cures in a can, that never work, the carbs will need to be removed, cleaned properly, refitted and everything setup as it should be, buy yourself a genuine repair manual for your motor, don't get a generic manual, or a cheap pirated download, a real manual will be worth every cent.
Oh haha... Dave is a mechanic by trade, but not boat motor mechanic, so he is used to pulling things apart and putting them back together. We will buy a genuine manual for it..thanks so much for your help
what about running some injector/carby cleaner additive in your fuel. snake oil i know but ive never tried this, any one out there tried it ?
might be the go to strip the carbs and wack in some new bits.
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