Reply With QuoteRemote control diverter valve. BLA part number 131 822 👍
Want to use wash down pump for live tank as well, just want ideas for y valve switching as all i can come up with so far is reaching into bilge and use plastic y valve from whittworths.,,,sure i saw push button built into transom at boat show few years ago?
tx
Remote control diverter valve. BLA part number 131 822 👍
I simply use a dual port pump. The idea is that the intake for the washdown is the second port--its effectively just letting you use the same intake for the deckwash, and the live bait pump just carries on pumping.
I see people going to all sorts of lengths to get their live bait tanks "working" . Transom scoops, changeover valves, remote valves, putting bilge pumps on the transom as bait pumps, so they don't work when you are up and planing---my simple setup just works. One skin fitting ball valve inlet, one dual port pump, washdown plumbed off the extra inlet port. Bait still gets water when I'm travelling, pump works...why complicate matters? Am I missing something?
Every thing in place so just need method to switch the pump from deck wash to bait tank...,don’t want to reconfigure at this point
what about a solenoid valve??
https://www.amazon.com/Solenoid-Valv...ode=1265148011
Ah, sorry, didn't pick up that you wanted to use same pump for deckwash and live tank. What kind of pump are you using--they are normally very different types of pump.
Some are rated for continuous livewell use but a deckwash pump tupically draws more current than a purpose built livewell pump and is noisier too. Ranmars suggestion of the dual port pump is what I typically fit these days as well. Means a bit more work with some extra wiring and a switch though.Originally Posted by ranmar850
That BLA remote valve is no longer available, THmarine no longer make it. I tried to replace mine last week as I think it was standard figment in Kevlacat 2400. Valve leaks into bait tank when set to deck wash and causes the pump to just continuously run.
ive just rigged up an all plastic dayco heater valve to the push pull cable, so i can use the same pump for both jobs.
Scottar, those pumps are reliant on being below the waterline to work as dual pick up hey?
Yes they are. Usually install a through hull pick up and a ball valve then the pump. Cats with sealed decks do present a problem as such. Usual install in that case is a scoop and external pump if the owner wants to avoid penetrations into sealed cavities. The other option is to simply install a spray head in the livewell that incorporates a valve so it can be turned off.
I had through hull pick up feeding the pump for wash down hose but repurposed that hole for a through hull transducer (perfect spot by chance) and using an old transom transducer cable hole for a new water pick up....
the pump is a sureflow, draws around 17amps and can shoot water 5M into the air out the wash down hose so might just be too powerful for the bait tank, will blow the livies to bits!
They will come out pre scaled 😂. Bit current heavy for my liking.
Might rethink it.,..
I have a Sureflow deckwash pump and an inline low-capacity bilge pump teed off the one thru-hull pickup. The deck wash is wired to an on/off switch and can also draw from a fresh water bladder via a manual y valve. The in-line bilge pump which feeds the live well, is switched via a variable resistor, automatic switch, to come on and off at the desired intervals. This system works great on a trailer boat.
Previously, the deckwash pump fed the livewell and required me to remember to turn it on and off...….MEGA FAIL!
That sounds like a good set up mate, could the bait pump draw water up via a transom pick up or is it non-self priming? My current thinking is to use the deck wash pump for the bait tank but add a simple 12V airator, they draw nothing and can stay on continuously keeping the water oxgenated and then just use the pump t re-fresh the water from time to time...thoughts?
Posting Permissions