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Yes, I've replaced with a polyurethane V. Fit much more snugly. And it works well with the boatlatch too, as you can run the boat up the trailer until it meets the v block, which is less traumatic than running it up to a roller.
After some feedback on the bow stop setup people use on their trailers. Trailers I've bought have, with fibrelass boats, all had rollers mounted on a 16mm bolt. Because you are actually putting all the load on a fairly small point, they wear on bad roads quite rapidly if you pull them tight. Or don't pull them tight, and you get a lot of side to side movement. It wore through the gelcoat on my last boat. The new boat came fitted with a rubber bow roller stop, and I actually wore through the rubber onto the steel bolt on one trip, and had to do a small repair later. I replaced it with a red semi-soft roller, but, at the same time, fitted an L&R Boatlatch. The roller was then resting against the top of the latch , and I felt it couldn't be pulled up tight as the contact area was even smaller.
Anyway, I got back from a long (2000km) round trip to the northwest, and found the latch point on the hull had broken on my return. I thought I had probably contributed to it, for various reasons, but I got in contact with L&R, sent some pics, and asked their opinion. Geoff was very helpful , and pointed out that I was really on the upper limit of the smaller one for the weight of my boat, and that my towing useage, as described to him, was certainly harder than average. I was not asking for full warranty coverage, as I had actually bought it s/h, new in the box from someone who had bought it and never used it. So he offered me a replacement, with the heavy duty version of the latch, at a very good price, direct from him. The snare part, fixed to the winch, is the same for both. HD is tested at 7.5 tonne, lighter one is 4.7 tonne. 16mm vs 12mm material. Comparison pic below.
In the process of plugging the old holes and doing a full repair on the area. Then I will drill new mounting holes for the larger one. Once fitted, I am going to revisit the ideas for the bow stop. So the question is, has anyone had a roller fitted, suffered bow damage, and replaced with a vee-block with a better outcome. Or just always had a vee-block, and never suffered significant wear? I have extension brackets to mount, to try to get the stop up above the latch. Vee blocks look they like spread the wear, and should also minimise side to side movement.
Yes, I've replaced with a polyurethane V. Fit much more snugly. And it works well with the boatlatch too, as you can run the boat up the trailer until it meets the v block, which is less traumatic than running it up to a roller.
Ranmar, I had a lot of issues with the anchor rode roller, the double braid would wear a groove through it and I eventually lost an anchor as I hadn't noticed it. I went to a local engineering works up here and he said the material needed to have a certain amount of nylon (I'm not 100% certain as it was a few years ago) and turned one up for me out of a dark blue material which he said was softer than the white one and if it failed he would replace it with the higher nylon content. The cost was around $40 for both the bowsprit roller and the roller just before the anchor winch/locker. It hasn't looked like getting a mark on it. May not suit your situation but talking to someone who knows their plastics/rubbers (most resellers only repeat the spiel they've been given) and they can turn a roller or Vblock out of a material that wont hurt your gelcoat but last the distance. My brother is going to go to him as he has replaced the same roller several times with different retail ones on his tinnie trailer.
Anyone had these pop up on their Facebook
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Mercury 115ct going strong😁
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