Thanks Shakey i will send them a email when i get out of bed no work being done one b/m/t at the moment local gp thinks i may have influenza virus
Contact this place a call and see what they can do.
https://www.allthread.com.au/products/square-u-bolt/
I believe you would better off in the long run by buying professionally made u-bolts
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Thanks Shakey i will send them a email when i get out of bed no work being done one b/m/t at the moment local gp thinks i may have influenza virus
Ground down those mig welds replaced those with some terrible arc welds but it will have to do i am confident it will hold these welds are about 16mm to 20mm wide just cant over come to pin holes have come to the conclusion i am moving to fast?
all my welding skills are self taught guys so no need to flame me saying they are absolute shit... i know what they are
anyhow should be welding the other spring hanger tomorrow than painting both, found some 75x175mm u bolts if i cut back the outside upright wall on my spring hangers and just leave the base across the span of the i beam and nip 2.5mm of the i beam off each side i can slide the 75x175mm u bolts on and they are cheap, my i beam is 80x130mm whats your thoughts?
Those welds look functional but you need to know if you're getting decent penetration into the larger surface. Got some scrap of the same material you can lay down the same weld on then cut at 90 degrees with a grinder? Cause I'm a hack I usually turn up the amps until I get some cutting into the crossmember. This gives me some confidence that the weld has actually penetrated and isnt just sitting on the surface.
CT that is a really good point 'm running Lincoln Easyarc rods around 2.4mm 2.6mm running them at 80amps which they are rated for 50a to 80a I'm getting good bite into the spring hanger its under cutting a little but while im welding i cant see to much of the base material if its biting into that
i just got back from the steel supplier picked up 2 meters of 16mm round bar just waiting or the sun to go down a little and i will get some welding done and try bend my u bolts
Fair dinkum i cut off 2 lengths of 500mm round bar made my beds and screwed both pieces i gave up, one came out at a 85mm gap i need 90+ another one came out too short to reach the height of the i beam
i am just going to use bolts and plates and be done with it i really dislike drilling thick steel it takes sooooo long and its a boring process but i guess its the only way or pay big bucks for the custom u bolts
no welding today was quiet hot i wanted to fluff about making those u bolts, bugger
since i am pretty strapped for cash im going to install 2 sets of non disc hubs that should get the trailer rolling and swap them over to front axle bee hive disc before rego kind of wishing i had went with commodore wheels half the cost of setting up the 9 inch velox wheels kicking my self now
Today's welds were better in appearance still all stick welding but for some reason my welder lost its peak for some reason i was still at the same amps but the arc lost a bit of omph strange... i had to over amp the rods they were rated to 80amps by Lincoln i had to set it to 90amps and that nice furious cherry red bead came back
someone msg me about the welds the other day in pm i tried to reply but think your inbox may have been full? it wouldn't allow me to type a msg but i took your advice and stacked the welds rather than zig zag the bead
Are you using something like Trefolex while you are drilling Gazza. Makes a big difference. As does a press and sharp drills.Originally Posted by gazza2006au
Hi Gazza, that was me, if those two pics of yours are your latest new ones then you are still weaving way too much, also the first pic looks also looks like you have a lot of undercut. Go to the link I gave you and watch the video. Here are 2 images of what stacked beads look like. In the first pic the beads weren't finished just to show you how to stack them. These welds are not mine, just got them off the web.
Cheers
Ed.
Hey Scott i use wd40 and a lennox hole saw i had a really nice carbide cutter hole saw i was going to use but i already had the lennox in the drill press
I'm not steady enough Ed i have my arms than i have the torch than i have 30cm's of rod to weld this tiny 7mm wide bead without wobbling i even wobble when when i tig weld but not as much and my hands are directly at the weld pool
those welds were only a 2 bead weld over lapping its all i thought i needed so didn't carry on with the 3rd bead, that material is only about 7mm so that weld is truly plenty
Hi Gazza your porosity will be coming from to much amperage for the welding rods you are using and rusty parent material and stick welding is also susceptible to wind as it blows away the shielding from the weld pool
The best bet would be to get some 2 mm Austarc 16 tc’s run your root run first grind it level than run your second run on the bottom half of the first weld then grind of the slag then run your third run on top of the second making sure it washes into your your second run
If the rods are to long use a brace to lean on or you can cut your rods down shorter I have had to do that plenty of times in tight places
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Jason they are not cheap are they, a pack cost about 5 times that of what i have holly molly
I am only using Gemini but mostly Lincoln Easyarc
Avtually felt like the machines settings were under powered untill i bumped it to 90amps
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My home handy man welding tip, clean the rust off first, then when welding use your other hand, with a good glove on, to kind of support the rod, I run it over my finger, almost like a pool cue when I want a short neat weld, you won't burn your finger on a short run like that.
Gazza I am only a home welder (done some TAFE courses in welding ). I find WIA rods to be the best and easiest to use too. Cheers
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