Those gold nuts & bolts will rust very quickly.
I wonder if a 10 year old kid is packaging my orders? i have whats boxed plus my 4 springs just waiting on U bolts, fish plates and axle pads now
Those gold nuts & bolts will rust very quickly.
Agree, that gold cad plate is not for a boat trailer, you really need Galvanised.
back when I was a crayfisherman, here in WA we use steel-bottomed, wooden framed pots. To protect the steel, we had anodes. Way back, we just used the wired type, and twitched them on. No guarantee of getting a good connection. So we started welding bolts to the frame, for use as a stud, ended up with 1/2". These were never too hard to undo if they were straight out of the water, particularly if you used a stainless bolt, but, if you used black, as many did, you can imagine how hard it was if you let the pot dry out. A pneumatic rattle gun would just shear a 1/2" bolt off. Now, seeing as we were trying to catch stuff with a well-known dislike for petrochemical products, you couldn't grease the bolts , or spray penetrant. may as well chuck the pot away, it would never catch again. So I started using lanolin grease on the stud, just a smear of a basic, thick Lanolin grease. Did it for a decade, never any problems again in getting those nuts off, and didn't bother the crays one bit.
The woolube is the stuff to go with its made by lanolin so should be top stuff, i picked up my steel this afternoon 100x100x3mm 2 meters draw bar, 90x5mm 200mm long 8 pieces for my spring hanger bases, i picked up some 50x50x5mm angle for my draw bar cross members but this wont be going on the trailer it looks to small and the steel bloke had already cut it so i will use some 90x70x10mm angle iron i already have
i may use the 50x50x5mm angle for my mudguard hangers
my axles fit a 1.75m trailer my alloy trailer is like 1.5m so i am going to either stretch my mudguards out wide or i will make the guards nice and fat to take up that extra space whats your opinions on this?
I will be making my own mudguards out of 3mm aluminium sheet just wondering which style i should go with?
How good does it look already its only just sitting together a mate works in a industrial factory selling all trade stuff and he is getting me the gal bolts
i need to start welding now need to weld the spring hangers to the plate than drill and bolt it all together
those two most front cross members are getting replaced with something substantial
buying that dirt bike out of my 3.5k budget f..... me over big time i would have bought two new axle assemblies specifically for this trailer
so do you know your axle length needed, with the first pic of the mudgaurds would suit better for clearance from the hull as its further away and the hull is raking upwards too giving you bit of room taking into acount the travel of spring flex to bump stop. those plastic bulky gaurds are crap when retrofitting, i done away with them and got some chequer sheet made up, looks more sporty.
Cat I'm not sure how much of the guards will be sticking out (away from the frame) i will have to measure the old trailer to get an idea but its raining here and i don't feel like rolling around in the mud lol
i called a shop the other day and i was quoted a price on i think 78 or 88 inch axles
Not using a load sharing set up Gazza?
I'm yet to add the bunks Scott they will extend off the back I'm pretty much running the Y of the frame up to the coupling winch post will be where the two black front cross members are
This might be a bit easier to see what I'm trying to get Scottar the purple line is the boats hull, y boatis 5.7m long over all now from the very last cross member on therear of the frame to the first cross member in front of the front axle is 2.5m plus add on .5m overhang on the rear of the trailer this gives me 3m so i have 2.7m of boat over the front axle but in saying that i will have the engine off the back plus the fuel tank over the axles
do u see any problems or can give advice? any help is much appreciated
Sorry Gazza - meant your axle set up. Dual slipper springs don't load share as effectively as a proper load sharing arrangement. Means you have to have your loading and tow bar heights spot on to distribute weight across both axles.
https://trailersparesdirect.com.au/b...g-measurements
Ahh i have no way of working around it because of the cross member between the front and rear springs
I just checked your link Scottar i went with slipper springs just easier to install and the ones i have were cheap i think $70 a set from memory
Loads sharing is much, much better, with your setup one wheel or the other will often be taking almost the full load on that side due to our beautifully smooth roads in Australia and you wI'll be flexing those side walls more than you wold like. Generally you would want to build a separate frame for dual axle set up so you can easily move it for best weight distribution, things change in a boat and you will need to do it when you add gear or seats or eskies etc.